Any online manuals out there? The real deal book looks expensive and I have to wait. We are pulling the engine. Hope it will come out with the fuel tank, charge air cooler and and the frame work around it in place. Any information on a manual and or R&R the engine is greatly appreciated. Wonder how the flex plate-torque converter is set up.
I assume you are looking for the Service Manual procedure to R&I the engine.? You have mail.........
I have the book I can send you the pages u need. Just send your serial number and what your looking for.
Thanks for the info. That helped with the torque converter bolts. We did squeeze it out with the charge air cooler, frame work, radiator and fan assy in place. We did have the balancer and head off it that matters. This engine is in extremely good shape inside except for a couple of rockers and 8 bad valves. Question the lifter wear but they are difficult to see at this time. Found out the number on the filter is 19,000 hours not 14,000. That is impressive. Looks like it could have gone 10,000 more before starting fluid How many hours does anyone have on one of these? Machine number cat0930gjtwr01246 engine 3056e ar 254-2236 ser# cpt18530 I will need torque specs if you could get that for me posrepair2013. I appreciate that.
Did you remove the paint from the cylinder head.? Because if you didn’t then IMO it’s not the original head from the engine, and if that’s the case then what else might someone have been into in those 19,000 hours.? Thinking out loud.
You are pretty quick there. I was just going by what I was told. Then trying to keep up with phones and employees at the same time. I still should have caught that.
When I saw your 19k hours number I almost had a coffee/keyboard interface. Even at 14k hours an engine of that size should be well-tired and showing serious signs of wear. It's not like it's a 3516. Smart phones with cameras are everyone's friend these days. No hiding place if someone has one of those in his pocket. Shout out if you need anything else.
Nige I have to back up a bit. The owner of this machine is probably a bit older than us. People want to blame old timers and such. He being 20% older than me probably remembers 20% better than I. The clean spots on the head are where the manifold gaskets were at. The rest of it shown where it was painted black or was dirty as the block.
Shows that I shouldn't try to look at photos on a phone ...... I could've sworn that head was painted black at first glance. However even looking at the photos on a big screen it looks for all the world as though it's rusty in between the exhaust manifold mountings - like it never had paint on it in the first place.
I need a little help here now please! Have all our rebuild parts in but have been a bit slow to tear it completely down. Wanted to be sure we put the timing back in the correct place. Our info is limited but looks incorrectly timed. Pump has only been on about 500 hr and I have paperwork. My info shows a timing pin at the front gears for the cam, crank and injection pump. We see no place for the cam and crank timing pins however it says the pump times at TDC. We marked the flywheel before and after TDC with a dial indicator. Then marked the middle for true TDC. Timing pin hole for pump is not in alignment? Would appreciate an experienced second opinion. Also need torque specs and clearances. Thanks all!
FIP Timing check method attached. What torque specs were you wanting..? Valve Lash. Inlet 0.008", Exhaust 0.018"
Rods, mains, and cylinder head will do. Thank You.
Cylinder Head Use the following procedure in order to tighten the bolts for the cylinder head: Put clean engine oil on the threads of the bolts. The bolts are tightened in the numerical sequence that is shown in the Illustration. 1. Tighten the bolts to the following torque. ... 110 N·m (80 lb ft) 2. Repeat the procedure in Step 1 to ensure that all of the bolts are tightened to the correct torque. 3. Use the numerical sequence that is shown in Illustration 1 to tighten the bolts for the additional torque-turn specification. 4. Tighten the short bolts (S) for an additional 150 degrees (2.5 flats). 5. Tighten the medium length bolts (M) for an additional 180 degrees (3.0 flats). 6. Tighten the long bolts (L) for an additional 210 degrees (3.5 flats).
Crank installation including mains & rod hardware.
Would anyone have a diagram for the injection pump and ECM wiring? I thank this is a VP30 pump. A VP44 pump on a Dodge Cummings will run at low ldel with a power and ground wire connected to the pump, no ECM connection. Will this do the same?
Are you referring to an electrical schematic for the same machine S/N TWR01246.?
Yes Sir
Check your PMs.
Yes the VP 30 will run at idle by powering and grounding directly to the pump. Can't remember the pin numbers numbers.
This machine runs about 10 PSI at the secondary filter head when running. I thank that is a little low? Anyone have any specs on that?
7 to 10 psi if I recall correctly. That is Cummins spec for the 5.9 with vp30
The wiring to injection pump on the vp30 and vp44 are the same. Pin 6 and 7 ,ground and system voltage.