I’ve got a 3116 that is putting exhaust into the fuel. I pulled the cab off today and will start the job Monday. I’m borrowing all the tooling from a friend. He gave me several tips. I plan on replacing the rack as the engine has 14,000 hours. Any other tips or pointers for cutting the new cup and adjusting the injectors. I have cat sis and the complete tooling. How ever this is my first 3116. Any pointers would be appreciated.
Don't bother cutting new cups. Just use your 1731530 seating tooling.
Ok. Still get new cups though ? Btw. I sent you a pm about another 53 with strange drive issue
If you have the tooling and the time then replace them. I saw that PM but you made it so I couldn't reply.
Should be fixed
If the cups are cleaning up by the time I get to no shims under reamer is it time for cup replacement anyway. I’m checking after removing one shim at a time. Also number one is pitted and was the culprit of the leak. Is it bad practice to only replace one cup.
I tell my customers like this. Whether I just do one or do them all the labor is the same. It would be advantageous to do everything while you are there. If you don't have time to do it right the first time then how do you find the time to do it again? Unless of course this isn't a production machine and you are not making a living with it. Then do what you think is right for you. Me personally I am lazy to the point that I do everything that I can. To insure that I won't have to go back into again.
I agree. I’m going to do them all. I was asking more for the thought of it making a height difference and adjust issue
I can only reiterate that if you have the time and the tooling, my advice is to replace them all. (YMMV) Don't bother p!ssing about with the reamer. I replied to your drive problem PM.
Ok. That’s what’s I’m doing today.
Wow. Talk about jumping in with both feet. From never having worked on a 3116 to replacing cups and the rack is quite a feat!
No one in the area was willing to do it. So yea I’m a bit nervous and taking my time. Want to learn as much as possible along the way.
It has been many moons since I have done that repair. It can be a little overwhelming, but once you you start doing it. It is not so bad. Just take your time and read the instructions carefully. Once you are finished you will see that it isn't all that complicated. Cat likes to church it up with the instructions. And that can make it seem more difficult than it really is.
I agree. I studied the tool book and instructions and once you get a handle on it it’s not near as overwhelming. I tend to read to deep into stuff and always ask why this and why that get my self all worked up. The cup puller tool is pulling through the swag. I’m thinking pulling the head would be more time saving If all six cups act like that. Thanks all for the help
If you drive the wedge down too far you will start to mushroom the sleeve which makes it harder to pull. Mark the tool at 5 mm where it goes through the guide . When you install the rack it is very important to adjust all the bearings so that the rack moves as free as possible or else you will have surging and hard starting. Do this with it disconnected from the governor yoke and before injectors are in.
I did. I use a 5mm Allen wrench under the jam nut. Swag tool is new and greased. Also watching the grove to come almost flush with the head. Real pain in the neck.
Ok. I will do that on the rack. The injectors were shot. Broke and loose springs. Getting new injectors and rack. I was told not to do reman injectors so I’ll be waiting on new.
Reman injectors in general seem to have an unacceptably high failure rate right out of the box.
With the labor involved I want to eliminate any chance of failure possible
So after getting pulled off machine for 3 months to do everything under the sun for the same customer I was able to finish the machine over the past few days. I installed new head gaskets. Put new injectors and rack in. Cussed several times synced the injectors and set the height and adjusted valve. Got the cab back on machine and did a service. Machine fires up and runs smooth. My only concern is the fuel setting. There was no tag on the valve cover so I got the info from tmi at the dealer. Cat gave info in inches. Converted to metric is was around 9mm. I tried adjusting it and could only get about 7.5 at most. Talked to a few guys that are pretty good on the motors and they recommend around 6mm. Ran the machine and it is underpowered. I do have a underspeed problem. Rpms are 2164 against the stop so I’m not sure if that’s were my power loss is or the fuel setting. I get black smoke when pulling it back to wot and clears up. No smoke when it seem weak. I noticed also it a little slow to start unless you bring the throttle back a very small amount. It’s a 14k hour engine and it was very cold the day I finished it up so it’s hard to judge start time.
If you want a cross-check on that information what's the machine Serial Number.? I could probably track the engine data down from that.
2zn02623. Fuel setting I got was .356in
953C S/N 2ZN02623. Built April 2, 1999. Engine Serial Number 4TF52471, Arrgt 147-1753, Test Spec 2T9423. I've sent you some info that hopefully may be useful.
For a update. Recheck fuel setting because machine was weak. Previous I couldn’t get the correct amount of travel. This time the more I messed with it a readjusted my pliers on the rack I was able to get the correct setting. I believe the tip of my pliers were hitting a head bolt. Feel a little dumb but that’s when I learn the most. Anyway machine is running smooth and powerful