Hi everyone. I am looking at a 955K tomorrow. I've never owned one but use to drive my dads and have been doing a lot of reading on them. So I am a virgin when it comes to these machines. The one I am looking at as some issues as might be expected. The guy is telling me it has about 50-60% on the pins, rollers and sprockets. How can I tell how much life is left in them? Also, he says the shifting linkage is very sloppy and it is quirky to get into reverse. He also says it does not go into 2nd or 3rd and believes it is due to the sloppy linkage. Evidently, it used to be used at a dirt quarry. Can anyone help with some advice?
The linkage needs rebuilding, Lever joint and rod ends, bell crank at front of case. Then the shifter shafts into the trans case need rebushing and resealing. Later Bob
Bob, thanks a lot for your response. How difficult of a job is this. Is it something I will need a professional cat mechanic? I've rebuilt gas engines and used to rebuild cars so I have a good mechanical background, just never worked on caterpillars before.
I can get you the necessary pages from the parts manual so that you can get the parts, plus the adjustment procedure. Would that work....?
Nige - That would be a great help. I'm trying to figure out whether or not this thing is worth purchasing. I am sure it has been run for many hours in the quarry. Do you have any idea the cost I'm looking at or is it reasonably cheap and/or easy?
I looked at a 955K 85J prefix machine. Worst case scenario replacing every ball-end, pin, lock, cotter, pin, bush, etc, etc, in the transmisison control linkage along with all new nuts, bolts, & washers for the whole assembly came to $275 in parts at Cat dealer prices. For a machine like this you might be well advised to go to Off-Road Equipment - http://www.offroadeq.com/ The thing is you will need Part Numbers. PM me the machine Serial Number and your e-mail address, I'll flip you the relevant page of the Parts Manual for your specific machine with the parts highlighted that I think would need changing. Back to the problem with 2nd and 3rd gears. It may well be that the owner is correct in that it's the transmission shifter linkage, I hope so because if it's a transmisison clutch issue it's going to be far more expensive.
Most likely wear at the shift lever pivot, need spacer , bushing , bolt and nut. Also wear at the rod ends. They are the easy fixes, the more difficult and likely more necessary will be the bushings and shafts through the trans case. These bushings when worn can make shifting very difficult. For now get the floor plates off and try shifting up with a pry bar to see how 2 & 3 drive under load. Later Bob
Nige, Thanks. I sent you a private message to make sure I got the right Nige. Let me know if you got it. My S/N is an 85J2thousand series. Thanks for the web site reference. I won't get this machine home for a week or so pending delivery capability. I think it will be a good machine. It started right up and moved forward and reverse easily. I had him turn the machine and it appeared to work just fine as well. I did notice both the front lift cylinders are leaking a little so I figure I will eventually have to get seals for them. Thanks again.
Bob, Thanks! I won't get the machine for a week or so pending delivery capability. Once it is here, I will learn much more about it. I tried shifting into 2nd and 3rd and it made no noise, it just did not do anything. First and reverse work fine and it turns easy enough. I'll keep everyone posted. Once here, I will send some pics.
Check the screens and filter for metal. Later Bob
Bob, please excuse my ignornace, but what screens and filter are you referring to?
These are the screen and filter for the transmission. See below. The first image shows the location of the screen and filter group (item 14) located in the top RH corner of the transmission itself. The second is a sectioned version of the housing. The screen is Item 17, the filter is Item 23. If anything major mechanically is amiss in the transmission that's where the particles will end up. I just sent you an email on the transmission control linkage BTW.
Nige - Thanks, this is a tremendous help! :notworthy I'll look at my e-mail on the transmission linkage information. Thanks again!
Nige, Bob, I just got the machine home. Colder than... here. Drove the machine up my driveway in first. The two tilt cylinders will need rebuilt but will pull the stems out and have already priced a local repacking and seals (about as cheap as I can do it myself with the kits). Will try and post pics tomorrow!
My new 955K pics I've had her home for a couple of days now and just got around to taking these pics! We had some snow so I covered the drivers area up with a tarp. I've got some work to do now. As I noted earlier in this post, I need to purchase new shift linkage (only goes into 1 forward and 1 in reverse, no 2nd or 3rd). Also, both lift cylinders need new seals and I need a new line on the left lift cylinder. Looking under the loader from front to back, you can see the line on the right side of the pic (left side of the loader). I'm not sure but I think it is missing some of the belly pan as the line hangs below the front belly pan. The tracks are also a little loose so I will try grease first but will not be surprisd if I have to change the seals in the track tightners. Overall though, I'm happy with it!
Difficult to see from a small photo but maybe your hanging hose could be nothing more than someone has replaced a burst hose with whatever was available and the replacement was too long so it ended up being routed outside the belly guard. Hopefully that is the case. Regarding track tension. Carefully check the external condition of the track links and bushes. Post some close up photos if you want an opinion.
Nige, It's been raining here so I will try to get a pic soon. I'll take pics of both sides. Is there any reason that the tracks would tighten and then loosen?
Regarding the tracks do you mean you can pump them up and achieve correct tension, then they loosen on their own..? If the answer is yes then the most likely cause is that the seals in the track adjusters are leaking. Replacing them is not difficult, there are plenty of threads in the track loader section of HEF. You need to be careful when disassembling is all.
955K track adjustment Nige, No, I have not tried to pump them up. When I first looked at it, the left side track was sagging like you see it in the pics. When I moved it around and held the left brake to turn it and then parked it a few feet later, the track was tight. As you can see from the pics, it is loose again. The owner told me that it would likely need grease to tighten it. Here are the pics. Let me know if they will work.:beatsme
955k track adjustments Here are some more pics.:beatsme
I suggest you try pumping grease into the tensioners and see if they stay tensioned. Once you get past that stage it will be possible to start making a shopping list of undercarriage parts that it needs. I can see sprocket segments and carrier rollers for a start.
The adjuster shown is completely collapsed, most likely leaking Later Bob
The previous owner told me that the undercarriage was about 60%. The spricket tips have about 1/8" flat area. The links are not oval, they are more round (according to the previous owner, another way to tell how good the undercarriage is). I am going to be using this on my farm so I do not expect to be running this thing for 100's of hours. However, I am expecting to use it to clear a field of scrub growth from the past 15 years. Some of the trees are 25 feet tall and 8-16 inches around. Thanks again for your help!
Looks to me like your tracks are on backwards and you have a problem with your recoil spring. Bob
Good spot. I looked back through the photos and there isn't one of the RH track that clearly shows the tracks. The LH track is definitely on backwards, if the grousers of the track shoes on the RH track are at the back of the shoes on the RH track (as they are on the LH one) then it's on backwards too........ Looks like the tracks are going to have to come off but then again if the OP is going to have to go into the track adjusters then maybe that's for the best, it makes working on them easier IMO. A good source for parts for this machine, but it will pay you to know what part numbers you need first - http://www.offroadeq.com/ Some good information about resealing track tensioners in this thread HeavyEquipmentForums
955K tracks Bluox, Nige, Bob, Thanks to all of you!:notworthy The tracks on the right side are backwards too! Does this mean that someone changed the tracks and put these on backwards or took them off for some reason and mixed them up? On a more scary thought, is there a way that I can tell if they are the right tracks for this machine? How hard will they be to remove and place on the right sides? How hard is it to replace the seals in the adjusters if I have the tracks off or if they are on?
It's not uncommon for tracks to get put on backwards if whoever is doing the job isn't familiar with the fact there's a right way and a wrong way for them to go on. A common mistake is to pull off both of the old tracks, hence leaving no reference on the machine as to which way they came off so that the replacements can be oriented correctly. Actually all the tracks need is pulling off and reinstalling the opposite way with the grouser at the front of the track shoe rather than at the back like it is now. To get the master pins out will probably require an oxy-acetylene torch and a pretty large sledgehammer. However it would be the ideal opportunity to put new seals in your track tensioners while the tracks were off the machine. It may be that the tensioners need other work as well. That will not be apparent until they are properly cleaned off,there's too much dirt around them to see clearly if the springs or the spring anchors are damaged. It would be well worth your time to read the thread I linked in my post above. The tracks have obviously been off at some time, maybe the previous owner..? Why not ask him did he ever remove or replace the tracks for any reason. I am speaking from memory here but to me with single grouser track shoes they look like dozer tracks rather than tracked loader tracks which would typically have double grouser track shoes. It may be nothing more than an optional track shoe though.
Thanks Nige. I have the oxy-acetylene torch set and big hammers too! I'll check out the thread you provided too. Thanks again! By the way, how can you tell the rollers are bad?
Their diameter and how they fit their shafts. Later Bob
Looks like dozer cleats on the track. All the loaders typically have the two short cleat grousers, makes the repeated turning in loader operations a little less stressful on the undercarriage and kind of tears up the pit floor a little less. Granted, the dozer cleats will help with traction in a farm type setting. It sounds like there won't be a lot of production loading in your future, so the grousers aren't a big issue, however, with the track tensioner and sprockets looking like they do, it will probably start slipping the track before long. They may have already been slipping, that could possibly explain why the track would get tight and and then loose. And someone correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it possible that an 85J machine would have the alligator type master link, or would it only appear on the SALT tracks? I went through all of the linkages and control rods on a 13X 955 that we had once upon a time. Managed to find all of the heim joints, od ends and Torrington bearings at a local bearing shop. Granted they didn't have the CAT packaging, but they had a LOT cheaper price.
You need to find the master link on your tracks,then you can take them apart with a wrench.Your tracks are SALT tracks.Have someone who works on tracks look at your recoil spring before you monkey with it..Stevie Wonder could see those tracks are on backwards.. Bob
Couple of points to note, and yes as stated the rails are on backward first, second those are dozer shoes not loader shoes which will be hard on the lower rollers/trucks moving loaded bucket and turning. Need to measure the face to bottom of shoe dimension as seems to be a little light on depth of the rails. Your sprocket segments are pretty well done, what shows to me is around 25% or less undercarriage.
955k tracks Everyone, This forum is an excellent source of information, especially for a beginner such as myself. I admit I'm not "Stevie Wonder", so no wonder I didn't notice her shoes were on backwards! Leave it to an old girl like her to have her shoes on the wrong feet! This machine was used in a land fill previously so they probably put different shoes on the old girl. For my use here on the farm, I don't forsee a big problem as she will be lightly used over the next number of years. I've got some more homework to get done as I begin my ownership experience with this unit:bash. Hopefully the old girl won't be too money hungry! I can't thank everyone enough for helping me, so, THANKS again.
Hey everyone, I looked at the links on my loader and the numbers are 3P7154 on the right track and 3P7153 on the left. They do have the alligator style master links on both sides.
Hey there houser, Con-grads on your new cat purchase. That will keep you busy this winter, looking to watch your thread, have a lota fun. sam.
Thanks Wosama93b. I enjoy rebuilding things and have rebuild many cars. This will be the first Cat though!
Those are the RH and LH links of the chain. Later Bob
Bob, At least it confirms that the links are genuine Cat as opposed to aftermarket which may or may not be a plus depending on how much wear there is on links, pins, & bushes. I'm wondering by the track shoes if the complete track groups may have come from a old-model D5 at some time, or maybe simply that a previous owner re-shod it with the track shoes it has on it now. One thing is for sure the tracks were off it at some time because they went back on the wrong way round.
Often people change shoes/grouser styles to suit their need for traction. Later Bob
955K track adjusters Well, here are some pics of my track adjusters. I had to use an 8-ton bottle jack to help push the tracks apart while I pumped grease into them (both sides). What is happening is that when I pump grease in and take my grease gun away, grease oozes back out the fill head. I guess I am going to need new ones! The good news is, that I did not see any grease oozing anywhere else!
955K adjusters more pics Here are some more pics.
955k adjusters still more pics Here is the last one.
The amount of wear on those spring stops is enough to make anyone that has seen a recoil spring shear the stops very worried! Had a 951B spring shear the stop bolts once and it wasn't a pretty sight. We always wrapped a length of chain around the spring many times and cut the spring several times with a torch and had the Cat dealer come out with their press group and tooling to install new recoil springs.
houser, if you look at the back of your sprocket you will see where the slack in the track went.Again don't fool around with your tracks untill you have someone who works on tracks look at the recoil springs.In this case trying to save money could get you killed or mained.. Be careful Bob
BVFDfire and Bluox, Thanks for the warnings. I am being very careful messing with this thing. The left ram came forward about 1", the right one about 3/4". I used an 8 ton bottle jack to assist in moving the idler forward. I will need to replace both grease fittings as they leak. I'll also do some more reading.
You might want to buy more life insurance so your wifes new husband won't have to do stunt work. Good luck Bob
No worries, she just bought additional insurance and told me to go play! Really, I'm not going to mess with the coils myself unless I torch them and replace with new ones. I'm not sure why they are bowing. I'll take some closer pictures to show the coil stops. Cheers.
They are bowing because of wear on the slides of the front pilot that are under the anchors and the angle of the plate the rear of the spring sits against. Later Bob
Howdy y'all! Just read up on the thread and it looks like you'll need some new tensioner springs as well.. I see a few coils touching that shouldn't be. I would torch the springs, pull it apart and see what you have. Good luck!
955K repair list Bob and KB9TCI, thanks for the info. THis is a great forum. KB9TCI - I read your thread on your 955L. It sounds like you have been through most of that machine! I guess you found a "nice girls" name for it? Did you ever get it running correctly and painted? On my machine, I have now found the following items that I need to replace or fix: sheet metal missing on lower half of the battery box (left side-I have the door, just not the bottom half that the door mounts on), missing sheet metal covers on back, missing a floor panel cover, need to replace the shift linkage as it only goes into 1 forward or 1 reverse, the coils sound like they will need replaced, the tracks are on backwards and evidently came off a dozer, and I will likely need to replace my sprocket segments before too long. :bash I don't guess anyone knows of someone wanting to trade dozer tracks for loader tracks? These SALT tracks appear in good shape so I might just use them anyway.
The reason the recoil springs bow up is dirt packing under them from holes in the frame, this sets up wear in the slides, if you look at page 1 of my thread in Sprocket pulling (Shop Talk) you will see recoils being refurbed, the tension on the spring is around the 10 ton area. tctractors
No. The poor ol' gal is still hibernating with a heart condition right now. This whole house building adventure has pretty much put a damper on any bit of free time I have had this year. I'm hoping to catch a small break before spring to pull it down again. I still haven't christened it with an official name yet, but Gertrude comes to mind right now I plan on getting a good coat of paint on it this spring after the power plant is back up to snuff. I wanted to make sure everything was hunky dory before the shiny looks. It's been so hectic I don't hardly find time to get on HEF! Not good!!
tctractors, I looked through shoptalk, 18 pages of your thread on sproket pulling but could not find the reference on recoil springs. Can you provide me a link so that I can find it? Evidently I need a pair of good glasses!
houser, the clue was the bit that said "page 1" there you will see a recoil set being re set in the older style 2 rod field press, this is mainly useing old components and a new grease cylinder N.O.E. I would deal with 3 or 4 of these recoil jobs a year, they take a fair bit of time to do on site due to parts being siezed up usualy, plus a bit of welding is often needed to build up worn slide areas. tctractors
tctractors, I must have looked 3 times through that entire thread, Yes, I also did look at page 1 (multiple times) as you response originally stated. I guess I was looking for a loader with the springs in work and overlooked that pic. Therefore, I thought there might have been a different thread that I was missing. Looking at your pick, will those chains hold the coils if they were to try and pop out of the portable press? I've cleaned out all the dirt in my coils as my pics show, so if it dirt that gets in there and pushes the coils out, is there a way to get them realigned straight w/o tearing them down? I spoke to a dozer salvage yard and they indicated they could rebuild the coils and that sometimes when they bow like this, the rod is bent or broken. I've not messed with this since the weekend as the days are too short and my day job is too long during the weekdays. Thanks ahead of time for your help.:notworthy
Houser, get hold of a lighter spring you can compress with your hands. Keep your hands parallel and the spring will be relatively straight, now tip your hands off parallel and the spring will bow like your recoil is now. Next time you look at the springs look at the pieces the ends of the springs sit on and how square they are to the track frames. Later Bob
Bob, thanks for the description and I understand what you are saying. I've taken a couple more closer pics that are posted here. The pics may be a bit deceiving, but when I look at the spring stop and back plate, they look perpendicular to the spring. I looked at the spring stops in front and they will need replaced. Take a look and let me know what you think about the front and back stops.
Here is a close up of the front stops.
The back stop looks okay, likely all in the anchors and front pilot slides. The slides and anchors are below center so spring will tip easily . A front pilot tipped down will grab the adjuster cyl and seize it some times. Later Bob
You may not need to replace the shift linkage, it may just be rusted up at the pivot point. Mine was rusted up pretty bad when I got it and now it's areal smooth and easy. On my L model, on the rear of the trans is where the linkage chages direction from left/right to front/back. Need to remove the the linkage and unbolt the thing, take it apart and grease it up. If you need a pic let me know and I'll post one. Edit: I miss read, thought you were talking about fdw/rev selector. Need to go have a look at mine
Bob - Thanks for the note. This thing has been sitting for about 3-5 years according to the previous owner so I don't doubt that some things might be stuck. The only movement it has seen recently is load, unload and 500 feet up my drive (gentlye slope, < 10 deg) and then reversed to the current position. I'm likely going to work on the tilt cylinder rebuilds first. Nige sent me a good thread from TCTractors that had some excellent content. Again, thanks again, this is an excellent forum.
ALLDODGE, Thanks for the notes. You are correct about the rusting, at least to some extent. The current owner couldn't get it to go into forward and reverse w/o oiling some of the linkage. Once he done that, it now goes forward and reverse okay. However, the thing still does not go into 2 or 3. He showed me some of the linkage and how sloppy it is so I have no doubt that I need to replace some of the rod ends. Also, I noticed today when looking at it that one of the rods is bent a little. I'll probably go ahead and order some new rods and ends from Offroad equipment. From what I've priced so far, it should be less than $100, well worth it. This thing starts and runs great, it's the other things that I have to fix. The tilt cylinders leak badly so they will be the first thing fixed. Once they are done, I've got to replace one of the tilt cylinder hoses and one of the lift hoses. Once my parts manual gets here (a couple of days), I'll know which part numbers I need.
Been raining here will have a look and advise later. You should setup an account with CAT so you can use their online system (SIS). While the pics in SIS in most cases are bad they do have pics of everything, and all the part numbers and prices are there
Access to SIS via a Cat dealer may cost $ depending on how much you buy (or don't as the case may be) or how benevolent your local Cat dealer is feeling at the time. The other way is to ask various members on here who have SIS Accounts to create an Adobe pdf of you what you need and send it by e-mail.
Never thought of it costing, set mine up about 10 years ago and didn't cost anything. Just wanted some info and that was about it. But as you say each dealer can be different in their requirements for setting it up
Thanks ALLDODGE. It's been raining here too. I can try to get a Cat account (didn't know I could). Nigel has been the "benevolent" one, recently providing me some good pics and advice too.
Nigel is one of the best, him and several others here have helped me get many things done. Without them I would still be trying to figure it out. It won't hurt to ask, my dealer Whayne Supply is aces, these guys go out of there way to help. Matter of fact I wound up buying tracks from them and they are after market from Korea. SALT chains, bolts, nuts and sprocket segments, and sometime if I get caught up I'll be changing them out on my 955
Everyone, I decided to start with the lift cylinder rebuilds first. Yesterday, I managed to get both stems out. I used my tractor loader and straps to hold them while I pulled them out. The effort took a 6-foot extension to my breakover bar and a comealong on for the right stem. The tubes looked good with some minimal sign of wear about 6" from the ends, a couple of small signs of rust pitting about 1" from the ends and no scarring. I did find signs of a little "crud" where the fluid drained out near the ends closest to the driver. Anyone have ideas on this? I used some fine emery cloth (250 then over with some 500 grit). The stems had some minimal scarring and after talking with the local hydraulics shop and the amount of use I'll give this thing, they are going to buff them out, add new seals and packing. They should be back by next weekend to re-install. Are there any tricks on installing them? One stem came out okay, but one stem I had to use a comealong to get it out!
Sorry it took a while, my social secretary told me we had to go see some folks. The pics are taken loking down from the drivers seat looking toward the back of the loader. The first pics are the pivot pieces I previously mentioned which is used to change FWD/REV. I removed and disassembled. greased and now she shifts smoothly. My toe is pointing at it The bar on the right side with the grease fitting on it, has a pod inside which pivots and moves the rod below (toe pointing at it) forward and back. The rod moves a valve on the transmission for gear selection
Alldodge, Thanks for the great pics! It was a great day here today, too bad I did not have the stems to put back in the cylinders. Pending weather, I will use your pics tomorrow to look at mine. How much play is in your rod ends?
If the ball joints in the rod ends are in good condition there should be no play in them whatsoever.
Agree with Nige, while I have next to none in the 1,2,3 selector linkage, I did have quite a bit in the F/R linkage. Replaced the ball joints in the F/R and it fixed it. Hope your play is coming from the ball joints and not the tube, that could cost a bit more
The ball joints definitely are not snug-fitting. Also, there is a long rod that is horizontal with the back of the drivers seat that has a bend in it. I it part of the shifting linkage from what I can see. According to the spec pics I have looked it, I don't think it is supposed to be bent. I'll take some pics as soon as the weather cooperates.
Shifting linkage pics ALLDODGE; Okay, here are the pics I promised. The bar you referred t- on the right side, you can clearly see on mine. the rod it controls appears to feel fine, little play. It is the reversing rods that appear to have more play. I tried shifting the transmission while sitting still to check the linkage play and it was hard to push into 2nd and 3rd and sprung back to where first is at. Is that normal? Also, I took a picture from the rear to show the rod that has a bend in it. Is it supposed to have this bend? I also provided a pic of the tilt tube w/o the stem for your viewing pleasure
For the rod to spring back is normal if the engine is not running. The rod going over to the pivot Forward/Reverse is bent, so to speak. The pivot I'm referring to is lower section of your first pic, just above the final drive and transmission fills. Yes this rod does have a bend in it and is used to change F/R direction, it has nothing to do with 1,2 ,3
ALLDODGE, thanks. This machine goes forward and reverse okay, so even with the bent rod it seems to work. It's 2nd and 3rd it does not want to go into. I've had the shifter into the positions of 2nd and 3rd while moving and it did not shift. Earlier in this thread, Bob suggested I look at the filter and screens and Nigel was kind enough to send me parts pics. I might look into those during this upcoming weekend pending weather and putting the stems back into the tilt cylinders. Anything else you can think of that would be a problem on the shifting if it is not the linkage?
TBH I would concentrate on the linkage first and get it 100% right. The fact that you commented very early on that it "seems sloppy" (or words to that effect) is probably a good guideline that replacing ball joints, connectors, etc, even straightening the "bent" rod (if it's not supposed to be like that), will most likely fix your issue. Either way you need the linkage in top-notch shape before proceding further.
Thanks Nige. That's what I'm going to work on next after I get the tilt cylinders back together. Don't want to tear too many things apart at once.
Bob and Nigel are some of the best, I would follow their lead. One of the first things I did when I got my 955 was to replace all the filters, it's always a good thing to have your own baseline. Trans filter changing is easy. You do need to have the engine rpm way up to get it to work in other gears, at least that's the way mine works. The 955 is designed to run wide open if not close to it
Guys, I had a spot of good weather yesterday and got both stems back into the tilt cylinders!
tilt cylinder rebuilds Oops, hit the wrong button. Both repacked stems went back into the cylinders relatively easily to my amazement! I have not yet tried to use them as when I pulled them out, I believe there might have been some water in the right tube. WHen I pulled it out, the fluid was "inconsistent", sometimes appearing to be like extremely runny jello. I suspect that means water so I am going to drain all the hydraulics to be sure. I'll catch it in a good clean container for potential reuse just in case it is good today so hopefully I can get this done today and refilled. While I'm doing this, I'll go ahead and check the hydraulic filter as well. Is there anything I should be aware of while doing this?
Glad you got them in but we all like a good picture show, and you did all that work without pics
If you haven't changed your hydraulic filters yet I would recommend doing that
ALLDODGE, sorry about the pics, got too excited about getting them back in ! Will try to have some more pics today. I'll have more pics soon as I am not done with all the work I want to do on this thing! I've still got to do something about the shift linkage, a leaking line on the lift cylinders, recoils on the tracks, sheetmetal replacement and, eventually, a new coat of paint! To get the stems back in, after clearing the first main seal (the 1" one), I had to apply a little extra pressure with a comealong while wiggling the stem back and forth. They were nice and tight! I am going to measure the lengths of extension of both stems to make sure they are at the same length. Ran out of daylight yesterday. I liberally greased the pins ahead of reinstallation and then cleaned off the excess. Have you ever drained your hydraulic tank?
Have not drained my tank intentionally. I've had a few bad leaks and the pump will run it dry when a hose breaks real quick, or slowly when a line develops a small leak and you don't run it for a month or two. If I remember it's around 25 or 30 gallons total, but has been 20 or so gallons when a leak happens.
I've started draining the hydraulic tank and evidently, there is not much in it! The first stuff to come out was a tablespoon of water.The fluid barely drains, more like a drip! I blew into the hose that I had attached (some pics coming soon) and heard a small amount of fluid in the tank. I left it drain all day and still only a couple of cups. I'll check again later and post some pics I took. The fluid that has come out is dark. However, this may just be due to some settlement in the bottom. I believe I am going to take the side off the hydraulic tank and look inside before I refill it. To the point of refilling it, I have been looking at different hydraulic fluids out there. According to Nigel in a different 955L thread, the L-model takes 10w hydraulic oil, so I suppose this thing takes the same. Anyone know for sure? Assuming it does, I believe 10w (w=winter) means it takes 20 weight (from a different thread). Does anyone know if it would be advisable for me to use a mineral oil with additives, something like 303 tractor fluid? I am not sure it contains the recommended amount of Zinc, but have read in other forums of people using it. Thoughts?
Have you backed off the drain valve aswell as taken the plug out? Take the screen out of the filler and see what's inside. Later Bob
You are correct in assuming the recommended fluid for your machine is SAE 10W hydraulic oil. Just get something of decent quality and branded, not from Joe Blow's Gas & Groceries...
My 955L manual indicates to use mineral oil, but do understand the manual was written in the 79's. I do use Super S 303, or AWS32 that I pick up at the local NAPA. As before I've had some leaks which caused me to replace all the oil a few times. With your oil being dark and very little in the tank could be other things have happened hope not.
hydraulic fluid and filter Thanks everyone. I've not had time over the past 2 days to do much of anything; my day job is spoiling my fun. Regarding the lack of fluid, the previous owner told me there is a hose leaking to the lift cylinder that needs replaced (I believe it is the small one) so that was not surprising. I plan on pulling off the side to the hydraulic tank this weekend and taking a look inside (I will provide pics this time. ). I don't like the fluid discoloration but will know more when I look inside. I planned on replacing the fliter already so this just makes sure I do. I know about the filter inside the tank, is there another one?
they were making the K and L model Should be just the one in the tank. Mine uses 4J-6064 but this is for my serial number. If we have yours we could verify Edit: never mind your prefix is the same as mine 85J As a note in looking up mine I found out that when they were making yours, they changed over to the L model and didn't change the prefix until later.
Thanks ALLDodge. I have a 1R-0720 and a 1R0722 that the previous owner gave me. Evidently they are for some other caterpillar. My S/N is 85J29xx and my parts book I just got confirms 4J-6064.
4J-6064 is now replaced by 1R-0720, so that will fit your hydraulic application. 9J-0750 is now replaced by 1R-0722. IIRC that filter is probably shown as being used somewhere in your 955.
Thanks for the info Nigel. Since I have the hydraulic filter on hand, I'll likely replace it today and take a look inside the tank.
Before you start ripping into the tank make sure you have all the necessary gaskets or O-Ring seals (as applicable) for the covers you're going to remove, plus whatever you do DON'T go putting gasket sealer or silicone on them when reinstalling. It gets everywhere including inside hydraulic control valves .......... If you have to use anything to stick a gasket in place use a dab of thick grease.
Thanks again Nigel. It appears there is only one big gasket for this tank cover. I've already ordered it. I want to get into it and clean it out real good before I dump several hundred into new hydraulic oil. That stuff is too expensive to not do the job right the first time!
hydraulic filter and fluid change Hello everyone, Here are some pics of the very dirty fluid and filters that came out of my cat. I've purchased 30 gallons of new 303 hydraulic fluid but had to order an additional filter (only had one). I'll put the new filters in when I get the new one. I've not yet opened the side of the hydraulic tank due to the holidays and weather turning cold. Maybe this weekend.
Looks like a typical lot of red glue in there, look close at the gasket surfaces for rolled over excess silicone.
Yes, I figured that someone previously was very liberal with the silicone. IF I had to guess, it will be the side plate gasket. I'll know more when I pull it apart. Thanks for the note. I'm more concerned with the color of the hydraulic fluid. It looks cruddy so I hope it has not messed up the pump.
Nigel, Bob or anyone, Evidently my parts book is missing page 38b. It should be on the opposite side of 38a but it is blank! Does anyone know if the oil filter for the 955K S/N 29xx is the same as the hydraulic filter, 4J-6064now replaced by 1R-0720?
Oil filter part number is 5S-0484
This pic is the engine oil filter. hyd filter is 4J6064 or changed up #1R???? Later Bob
Agree, it was my under standing that houser was asking for the oil filter, and to make sure I wasn't misunderstanding I posted the pic
Thanks ALLDodge! Yes, I was looking for the oil filter #. On some of the on-line shops, they indicated it was the same as my hydraulic filter # 4J-6064
I've seen similar things looking for parts. At Forrest something or another (forget the name) indicated they had a thermostat for my D3 at 1/3 the cost. Well the thermostat did fit but had to replace it with a CAT because the engine was overheating. My guess is the size is the same and will fit but the filtration level is not as high as it needs to be for the engine.
Well, I purchased a case of 6 of the hydraulic filters (1R-7020) because other sites indicated it was the same filter. I found the cross reference on one of web sites I was on. I found 6 NAPA 1197 on e-bay for $6/each + $18 for shipping. Yes, cheap! I guess I'll be ordering some oil filters as well now.
955K Hydraulic Tank Hey everyone! I got into my hydraulic tank today. The good news is, the tank is clean as you can see by the pics below. I don't know where the red silicone came from that I pulled out of the filter , but there was no silicone on the hydraulic tank gasket as can also be seen below. The fluid was cruddy in the bottom just like before. Any ideas on where else that type of silicone might have come from? Also, has anyone else had hydraulic fluid that looked this cruddy?
Most times the silicone was just used around the O-ring on the filter. It may have leaked a bit and instead or getting another O-ring or finding the bur which was causing the leak, they just put some silicone on it.
Question: Do you have any indication of leaks where the shafts for the hydraulic control mechanism come out of the tank..? If you have any doubts at all now would be the time to get in there and replace the shaft seals. If you do then pay special attention to the condition of the bushes that support the shafts, replace them if there is any sign of visible wear or scoring on them. It might also be worth some further disassembly and take a look at every O-Ring or seal on the pipework inside the tank while you have it open.
Yes take the entire valve assem apart and out. There are many seals under the valve at the ports and all bolts holding it down, plus the pressure lines at the bottom of the tank. Replace them all now you are in there. It's a lot of work and expense but the only way to go. The control shafts have needle bearings. Later Bob
Thanks guys. For now, I've placed the cover back on and covered the tank due to the weather turning a bit frigid here (I'm working outside). Before I replaced the cover, I managed to get most of the remaining fluid out of the tank. It still has about 1/4" left but I can see the bottom and have not found any evidence of silicone yet. When I get a bit of warm weather again, I'll dive back in! The fluid is blackish like used motor oil. Any ideas on what can cause that? AllDODGE - I found the silicone outside the main filter screen but am not sure what o-ring you are referring to. The filters I removed are metal and lie inside the filter screen. It takes two back to back and then they are held in by the filter screen. I don't recall seeing an o-ring though. I have also not yet received my new filters I ordered. They might have an o-ring on them. Nigel - There do not appear to be any leaks in, around or under the tank that I've noticed. However, before I am finished with the tank, I'll double check. Thanks everyone as usual, you guys are great!
The O-ring would appear to be item 17 part number 5L-5032. If you look at your post 97 the last pic, it appears to have a grove for an O-ring. If that is not a grove (like on my 955) then another type seal is used
Thanks Alldodge. I have a rubber O-ring about 6" in diameter that goes in a groove on the outer cover. You can see it in the 2nd pic of post #97, the one that shows the cover with the long bolt. I thought maybe there as another O-ring associated with the filters themselves. When I opened up the filter chamber, there was no sign of any sealant around that O-ring. In fact, it was pretty clean with no signs of leaking as well. I was very happy that the inside of the tank looked as good as it did. My dad left his 955 (very early model) sitting for about 15 years and his hydraulic oil coagulated for some reason. He had to remove his tank and have it steam cleaned. He then used kerosene to thin out the remaining oil and then changed the oil. The only issue I see with the oil in mine is that it looks like someone ran it through a diesel engine, not a hydraulic pump!
As old as the machine is, the silicone issue may have happened a long time ago in another component. Your doing what I probably need to do, just haven't
Hey everyone. I've ordered my shifting linkage parts . Offroad equipment is definitely priced right! I was going to order the rebuild kits for the recoils but they did not list the long bolt, part # S-1595. Anyone know of another place to order these types of parts?
Nigel, AllDodge, I'm taking advantage of the bit of good weather to work on the shifting linkage. I put new rod ends on the Forward/Reverse long rod and the 1,2,3 gear linkage rod. I found that the big round yoke that provides the main pivot points has slop in where the pin goes through from front to back (has a keyway in it). This affects the F/R shifting. It is the part that is AllDodge picks back on 12-14-2014 at 3:58pm, the 3rd and 4th picks. I ran out of time but will look at purchasing a new one. Part# 5K6583; yoke assembly.
I checked offroad but they did not carry the yoke assembly. I'll have to find it somewhere else or attempt a rebuild.
Part number 5K6583 is the assembly and says contact dealer for part, meaning it has a higher price. There is also two seals 8F-7702 and a bearing 4M-0546 (cost is under $10 each piece). If the bearing is like most, it's made of bronze and just needs replaced. Now if it's the other shaft it could be around $75. Have you taken it all apart?
If it needs more than just bushes replaced (in which case order 2 x 4K-3893 Bearing) then see if you can get the items separately. The Yoke minus bearings is a 1V-6694, obviously you would need the 2 bearings as well if you went this way. If you have it all disassembled post photo(s) showing where the wear is in the yoke. Reading your post 116 again I'm a bit confused. The 1st & 2nd photos of the four that AllDodge posted on post 69 back on Page 5 are of the vertical shaft that carries the pivot for the F->N->R linkage, the 3rd & 4th photos are of the horizontal pivot shaft the carries the pivot for the 1->2->3 speed linkage. You say your problem is that the F-N-R linkage has play in it but you refer to the 3rd & 4th photos...........
If memory serves me correctly. The end of the shift lever has a large bushing and a spacer held into the cross shaft with a 1/2" bolt, replace these items. I am not sure about the cross shaft support but it should have a pair of needle bearings in it. Later Bob
shift linkage and yoke Okay, so I got the shifter and yoke linkage out. Not too terribly difficult. Here are the pics. As you can see, the rod and bushings in the yoke appear to be worn pretty good so I will be purchasing them next. The good news is the bearings appear to be fine.
hydraulic lift lines Since I was taking pictures, I took a picture of the hydraulic lines under the belly on the left side. They are posted below. One of these is likely leaking but they appear to be hanging down too far. Does anyone know how these things are supposed to be held up or if they appear to have been replaced or ... These are the lines for the bucket lift, not tilt.
You know since your going to have to buy the bushings anyway, why not buy them first and see how they fit and how much slop still remains. Nothing wrong with buying everything but I had some slop in my D3, bought the bushings first. After checking I went ahead and installed them and while there still is a slight bit of slop, just not very much
Well, I just checked Offroad and they don't show "bushings" in the yoke. Any ideas?
You really should check out your CAT dealer, while items do cost a bit more, they will fit every time. As before the bushings are under 10 each.
Thanks AllDodge. Offroad also doesn't show a listing for the worn shaft. I guess I'll take your advice and try the bushings first. I'll try a local shop to see if they carry anything close.
Cat should have some maybe shaft too. That wasn't the shifter end I thought. Later Bob
Here is the best I can do with a pic
What do the lines go to? Easier to find that way
Judging by the photos in your post #121 I would say that replacing the bushes plus the shaft that runs through the yoke (it looks badly worn) should do the trick, even if it's not perfect it will be 100% better than what was there before. My local Cat dealer lists the 4K-3893 Bearing at $15.52 each and shows them as available in the Miami Regional Parts Warehouse. Maybe try Offroad Equipment using that Part Number, you may have to call them. Regarding your lift cylinder lines - does this look anything like what you have..? Just to get oriented - the front of the machine is in the direction of the arrow, so the LH lift cylinder will be the lines at the top. On the face of it I think someone has replaced some steel hardlines with flexible hoses, therefore you've lost the support that should be there.
Everyone, Thanks for your responses. The bearings look good (4k-3893) so I should not need them. I took the shaft, yoke and bushings to the local metal shop. They are going to build me a new shaft and bushings for about $40. Will be back by Friday!
Nigel, yes, that looks like the lines for my cat. The two striped lines, 12 and 15, are the two lines that connect to the lines that go underneath the loader. It just looks odd that they hang down below the undercarrage of the loader. I suspect they should be mounted different or have been replaced with different lines that don't fit correctly.
Bob, Nigel, AllDodge, One of the issues with this machine as I first noted is that it does not shift into 2nd and 3rd. I purchased a new transmission filter and will put it in this weekend providing the weather holds. Is there any thing I should worry about when removing the top cover for the filter or the screen? The screen top indicates a transmission pressure. Also, this shifting lever issue that I worked on today, if the forward and reverse are not fully engaged, meaning only partially (enough to move the machine), could that cause the transmission not to go into 2nd and 3rd?
The striped lines are flexible hoses, every other line on that diagram is a non-flexible steel tube. I think that is where your problem lies, the replacement of some of the steel lines with hoses has caused everything to sag. There should be 2 steel lines that run from left to right across the machine, supported I think from the frame cross tube. You can see the clamp right in the centre of the illurstration even though it does not have a reference number. The diagram is Part 1 of 2 parts, the other part has the reference numbers for the clamp and the 2 steel lines.
Thanks Nigel. No telling what I am going to get into trying to put the original lines back on this thing but I believe you are correct. Someone has replaced those steel lines with some flexible hoses.
Do you feel a spring like resistance going into second gear? If you leave the trans in 1 st and shut down the engine does it go to neutral? You may have low pump pressure. Later Bob
Bob, what about checking the transmission shifting by moving the speed/direction spools manually..? That would take the linkage completely out of the equation.
Yes Nige, I was wondering if he had an older trans with a spring that forced the trans to neutral at shut down. Another thing that will make hard shifting F to R is worn shaft bearings through the case. Many hands could have been at his machine and it's hard to fix from a distance. The linkage is simple but could be on wrong. Later Bob
Bob, I get the impression that the linkage has been severely neglected as in never having been lubricated and the subsequent wear is what's causing the selection issues. At least I hope so, but shifting the spools manually would clearly show whether or not there was any wear in the case bushes. Back to the isue of the lift cylinder lines. Who on here has a 955K of a similar vintage (85J2000-ish) that they could photograph to show the OP what the lines are supposed to look like..?
Mine should be real close to his, I'll see if I can get some pics this AM. I think the issue with pics will be still having my bell pan on, but well see what I can find
If the illustrations on SIS are to be believed yours should look exactly like the OP's machine, although some individual part numbers may vary. As you say the problem might be that the steel lines we're looking for are probably well hidden under the belly guard.
The lines are hidden pretty well. I can see steel lines come from the tank, and then one goes under the transmission, the other bends and heads forward. The forward one disappears around the control arm pivot. I think it goes through the frame to a flex line but cannot see. Larger lines are trans and bevel gear fill tubes. Smaller ones are the hydraulic lines
I'm pretty sure that's the 2 steel lines that have been replaced with hoses on the OP's machine.
AllDodge, Bob, Nigel, Thanks for all the info and pics! I'll try to get pics of mine from the back as AllDodge has done. This will provide a like comparison. I know for sure the lines underneath are flexible hose so someone has replaced them. And Nigel, I think your are correct. Most of the lubrication joints have not seen grease in years. I've lubed every grease fitting I can find! It is clear from the linkage I removed that the bushings and shaft were both well worn. I really doubt that this thing was going completely into reverse or forward but was somewhere in between. I shifted it forward and reverse by hand (not too difficult but stiff) and could feel the "click". I had not previously noticed this when I drove the machine up my drive. When I try to go into first while the engine is not running, it springs back like Bob earlier noted. if the weather holds and I get the linkage back together, I can try to start it and move it forward and reverse in multiple gears to see if that worked. Regarding the transmission filter replacement, is there anything I should worry about when taking the top off the filter or screen compartments? The screen compartment indicates a transmission pressure. Also, the drain plug on the filter is super tight and awkward to get to. I can't get much leverage from going through the back so will try some long extensions and swivel sockets next.
Houser, you may have low trans pressure and it prevents the trans for shifting up. Have to do a pressure test soon. Don't let dirt into filter and screen housings. Later Bob
There will be no issue taking the top of the lid off the filter. It has a spring in there but nothing that is going to just jump at you. Ease off on the bolts and clean the area around it before you start. Other then that you should have no issue. Didn't mess with the screen on the bottom, filters only, and filter comes out of the top
Thanks again Bob and AllDodge. I've cleaned off the top of both already to make sure no dirt falls in. I'll tackle them tomorrow if the weather is good.
hydraulic filter Okay, here are some more pics. I changed out the transmission filter and cleaned the screen today. The screen was pretty clean but as you can see, the magnets had some metallic wear attached to them. I cleaned it all up and put-er back together. Unfortunately, I found some water in the filter housing . I'll check the transmission fluid tomorrow and hope for the best. If it has water in it as well, I'll have to change the transmission fluid as well !
hydraulic lines Okay, back to the hydraulic lines. Here are some pics. The first one shows the sagging line on the left side of the loader. The flexible lines go up and through to the lift cylinder on the left side. The second picture shoes the flexible lines looped over some other steel lines to hold them up while snaking their way across to the right side. The 3rd picture shows how they are attached to the right side of the loader on the underneath side. The next picture shows the lines on the left side going up through the frame. These lines are attached to the sagging lines in the first picture. The last pic is taken from the rear of the loader. It does not quite look like AllDodge's. I don't see two similar lines coming down unless my lines have to be rerouted. What are your thoughts?
I don’t see the metal particles as being particularly scary, especially if it's a while since the magnetic screen was last removed. The rust spots are a bit more perturbing, it seems as though there has been quite a bit of moisture in there. Lastly, what's the red "tape" on the bottom of the magnets..?
It's a bit of silicone rubber. There was signs of it on the seal when I removed the cover. I did not see it anywhere else. Not in the filter either.
Nigel, AllDodge, Bob Do any of you know if I can use the same 303 trans-hydraulic fluid in the tranmission of this thing?
Your pic from the rear View attachment 129984 My pic from the rear View attachment 129877 Look pretty much the same. You mention the lines are on the left side but look like there on the right as mine are. Facing forward from the rear is your hydraulic tank on the right or left?
I think I can shed some light. I've taken one of your pictures (from the LH side of the machine) and edited it. Things are a bit dirty down there but I reckon if you clean the area you're going to find the answers. It looks to me as though someone has cut off the flanged end of the steel tube and welded a fitting on to it. Take a look inside the red oval on the photo. I'm sure if you clean up the area you'll find that the silver fitting has been welded or brazed to the end of the tube which still appears to have yellow paint on it. Up above I've made 2 blue ovals. This is the area I think that the brackets you're missing should bolt on to the machine frame. Are there holes in that location..? Lastly if the RH side of the machine has the brackets that support the steel tubes to the frame (the ones that cross from right to left in the parts manual) still in place I think if you follow those tubes from the RH side of the machine towards the LH Side you will find a point at which someone has welded a fitting on to what remains of the tube in order to attach the other end of the hoses that we see in the photos below. Does that make sense..? You may also find that the support bracket in the centre of the machine is still there. Start at the RH side of the machine, follow the 2 steel tubes, and try to see if you can locate it. You're still going to have to replace the tubes with the correct ones if you want to put the machine back like it's supposed to be but at least it will give you an idea where you're going.
My manual states to use 10W mineral oil, so I have used Super AWS32 and 303. There is better stuff I'm sure but this is what I have been using.
right hydraulic lines AllDodge, Yes, I believe you are correct, must have been late last night. These lines on mine go down and, at the bottom are pictured here: . Thanks too for the reference on the oil. Tractor 303 oil is supposed to be somewhere between 20 and 30 weight so if the oil is supposed to be 10 weight, I'll see if I can find it in a lower weight.
Nigel - thanks for the reply. I'll have to check on the bolt holes. In my response to AllDodge, you can see how these lines attach on the right side of the machine. I believe you are correct, someone has done some cutting and splicing here. I'll see if I can find the two steel tubes and get it back like is should be. One of these lines are leaking anyway.
I mixed my comment with the hydraulics and transmission, trans does specify 30W
I think if it was me I'd get the steel lines, the LH & RH brackets, plus the 2 identical brackets, and see how the jigsaw fits together. The clamps for the centre of the steel lines could wait until later. Some major butchery has taken place in the past in that area, that's for sure. Before that what it really needs is a good clean IMHO, that will show up what's been welded in order to modify it.
Yeah, I've got all the parts numbers for everything you referenced above. WHen I querried Offroad, they did not indicate stocking the brackets, nor one of the two lines.. When the weather straightens up again, I intend on giving her a good cleaning. I've already cleaned some of the dirt from the top of the transmission area. I actually found a key to it there! It does not take a key now since someone has replaced the ignition with a push-and-turn type of switch. It has both the heater and starter sides so it must be from some type of diesel machine.
Okay, here is a quick update. I visited my somewhat local used heavy equipment company and scored 2 steel lines that go under the belly, the brackets and bolts to attatch it, both coil guards, the side plate under the battery access panel, and the 4 short hydraulic lines that connect the steel lines to the vertical lines! The shifting linkage is also back from the metal shop and ready to go back in . Weather permitting, this weekend I will get the hydraulic lines and shifting linkage attached. I'll also drain the transmission oil and replace it too. It is supposed to snow so am not sure how much I will actually get done!
Your making some real progress and making me feel bad about not getting out there and start replacing my rails. :salute
Another quick update. I managed to get the shifting linkage all back together before the rain stopped my fun. I had to shorten the reverser shifting rod after I replaced the rod ends. Evidently the new ends were not threaded as deep. After all said and done, I can feel the shifter going from Forward to Reverse when I shift it. As the weather straightens up this week, I will try to make some more progress.
Had beautiful weather over the weekend! I'll post pics in a couple of days, but I managed to get the transmission oil changed and the two new steel hydraulic lines under the transmission put on. Someone had cut the ends off the old steel lines and welded female fittings on. They then placed a 4 foot flexible line across the bottom and looped it over some linkage. That is why it was hanging down. There is a long one and a short one. I attached the long one with brackets to the frame but have to figure out how the shorter one attaches. The transmission fluid was milky so there was some water mixed in. I did not get any water that was separated from the oil so someone has used a trans-hydraulic oil that will emulsify with water. I am not sure if the water mixed in would cause a problem with not running in 2nd or 3rd, but hope that between this oil issue and the linkage I fixed that all will be okay. I'll know more when the ground freezes so I can start her up and move her around w/o tearring up my drive.
New hydraulic lines under tranny Okay everyone, had time to take a couple of pics. Here are my new hydraulic lines, steel ones, like the originals that should have been on her!
What no new paint !! Just kidding, looking good
I do plan on giving her some new color when I'm done working on her ailments! I found most all the sheetmetal I'm missing. Still have to find the front side covers ahead of the coil covers and the back panel behind the driver. On an aside, what is the function of the coils? The track adjusters keep the tracks tight so what role do the coils play?
Good score at the breakers yard..... All that appears missing right now is the bracket and fittings for the clamp that holds the 2 steel tubes up to the machine frame in the centre. You REALLY want clamp in place otherwise it's going to put too much weight on the clamps/brackets on the outside ends of the steel lines. Either way you're well on the way to sorting the problem.
Hey Nigel. I did score all the brackets too! If you look close, you will notice that the longer line that goes to the outer part of the frame has the brackets on now. The brackets attach where the steel lines attach to the flex lines. Once I had them on, I pulled around on it and it feels nice and solid. I don't seem to have the middle clamp that holds the two lines apart, but am not sure I need it. I've actually got the brackets for the shorter line but had to find a picture on where they need to be installed. I've now figured that out, but it's 19 deg F outside with about 4" of snow so I'm in no hurry to install them yet. Once the weather straightens up, I plan on starting her up and trying out the hydraulics and transmission. I hope replacing the transmission oil and linkage will fix the shifting issue. If not, it definitely did not hurt anything. As I noted earlier, the transmission fluid was milky looking so it did have some water in it. Regarding the springs, how do they function with the track adjusters?
The middle clamp that "holds the 2 lines apart" is the one I was referring to. That clamp will prevent a lot of potential vibration issues in the steel lines that could result in cracks in the lines themselves or in the fittings at the ends of them. The hydraulic tensioners are what puts the initial tension on the tracks. The springs are a recoil mechanism so that if something gets jammed in the tracks they can allow the idler to move rearwards then spring back once the obstruction is removed. Without the springs there would be no "give" in the tension mechanism and things would break.
Nigel - Thanks, that is what I thought but wanted to make sure. Do you kow what the compressed and uncompressed length is for these springs?
Here is an extract from the specifications in the manual. These springs don't usually get "tired", they are either in one piece or broken. Length assembled for installation ... 24.23 in.(615.4 mm) Length after installation ... 24.73 in.(628.1 mm) Force of spring after installation ... 15 ton(13.6 metric ton) Free length ... 30.22 in.(767.6 mm)
springs Thanks again Nigel. :notworthy So, if I get new assembled springs, it sounds like I will need to open them up once I put them in. Is this right?
Yes the bolt is only for compressing them to remove and install. Once in place with anchors on, wrap the track, adjust as tight as you can. Then put a 4X4 in the sprocket teeth and back up, spring will be compressed a bit, back off nut on spring bolt to end of bolt. Then drive forward, remove 4X4 and adjust track properly(idler tight then back off 3/8") Back off nut until it is 1 thread past the end of the bolt, install big washer and 1/2" bolt and tighten to lock the nut in storage position. Later Bob
Bob, Thanks! What do you mean by "wrap the track" and adjust as tight as you can?
Reconnect the track - initially you would have had it split to get the front idler/tensioner/recoil mechanism out of the machine. Then pump the track adjusters as tight as you can so the tracks are like bowstrings. That will take as much weight as possible off the big nut on the recoil mechanism. You're not going to move the machine in this state, simply use the track tension to assist you to correctly adjust the recoil mechanism. After that you can set the track tesnion back to "normal".
I just love the variations in English from US to Canada to Australia and GB, we can come up with all sort of wording to say the same thing only many times it can also be fun or funny to read!.
Thanks for the clarification Nigel! I was thinking the coils and adjusters could be pulled off without removing the tracks. I have to pull the tracks off anyway :Banghead since they are on backwards so it's not like pulling them is going to be more work.
DMiller - you got to love the language variants; hood, bonnet, hat, ...! I'm in Leslie, not too far southeast of you. I've driven through Herman many times as I go to Kansas City. Small world!
Big ends, Gudgion pins and "Never labour up a gradient in top gear."
windscreen or windshield..?
Hey everyone. I got out today and started her up! I bled the hydraulics and all the lines and rebuilt cylinders worked perfect! In a couple of days the ground will be dry enough to take her for a spin and see if my work on the shifting linkage and new transmission filter and fluid helps with the shifting to 2nd and 3rd! Cheers!
Look forward to hearing the update
Okay everyone, I waited long enough and between showers, I started her up and drove down the drive. I have 1st and 2nd but no 3rd, either forward or reverse. It seems like I have to rev it up for reverse in 2nd. When I put it in 3rd it is like going into neutral. I feel it "click" like it goes into gear, but it is just like shfiting into neutral. Other than that, it appears ready to go. Any ideas on 3rd?
Have you checked he spool adjustment under trans cover? Later Bob
Bob, I Have not checked. What exactly would I be looking for
In two positions I can't remember what ones Think first gear not sure for or rev the two spools have a shoulder that will line up flush with a machined surface of the valve body. You will know when you are in there and shift the gears. Later Bob
Okay, thanks. Will look at it tomorrow.
Hey everyone, I don't know if I should start a new thread or not, but I guess I've seasoned working the tracks over long enough. I did not think it had been 3 years! I plan on ordering new springs, bolts, stops, ... Per the other threads, I plan on cutting the springs after wrapping chains around them. Is there a way I can tell if the pilot needs replaced? Trying to figure out what to pore-buy ahead of tearing it down.
Here is a thread of when I did a replacement of the recoil springs, fixed up the pilot & rebult the adjuster on my old 941 loader. If I remember correctly, I think the hyd adjuster has the same parts on the 941 & 955. Spring will be different though.
I replaced my springs but didn't chain them. Cut them in place and all was good without issues. Did cut mine more then needed, but I din't want any chance of tension remaining HeavyEquipmentForums
Thanks Metalman. I'll take a look at your post . I have priced all the a fairly comprehensive parts list at Offroad but don't want to purchase more than I need to,
Here are some new pics. The left track recoil bolt appears to have a little slack at the back. The stops will clearly have to be replaced. I will rework the adjusters as well.
There is something about the stop that doesn't right
That left recoil bolt is so corroded as to be dangerous. Cut the spring coils with an oxy-acetylene torch to remove them. Judging by the condition of the components in the photos you're going to be in for much more than just springs IMHO. The stops have most likely been damaged by material build-up under the springs forcing them upwards into the curve you see in the photos. Having no guards over the top of the springs that to a great extent prevents material getting under the springs is a reason why that could have happened. Also, your left track is on backwards ........ the grouser on the track shoes should be at the front. The rubbing action of the track chain bushes against the sprocket is probably what's worn the teeth down. Effectively when you drive forward that LH track is running on the sprocket like it would do in reverse if it was installed the correct way round.
If anybody has difficulty in getting their head around the difference in the relative movement between the bushing of a track and the tooth of the sprocket between going forward and reversing it was discussed in this topic, posts #4 & 5.
The reason that spring is humped up is it is already broke and the sprocket teeth are worn because someone put a new track backwards on a wore out undercarriage . Bob
But hey, at least are SALT rails!!
Thanks everyone. I believe it was Bob that previously pointed out the old girls' shoes are on backwards (yes, both sides)! When I get the springs cut, I plan on reversing the tracks. Yes they are SALT tracks, I don't recall who on this site told me that, but I do have the alligator-style master links so hopefully it will be easier to remove them. Here is a list of the pieces that I believe I will need to purchase: Recoil springs (5k6262), Recoil BOlt (S1595), recoil nut (1B4210), Pilot (5K3733), Stop (1m5391 and 1m5392), dowel (9h4105), and the rebuild kits for the adjusters. I have not yet found part numbers for the slides. Anyone know what page they might be on in the parts manual? I also need the bolts for the under-belly plate (the big one). My 955 did not have one but I purchased a used one from the bone yard but did not get the bolts.
My track numbers are 3P7154 on the right side and 3p7153 on the left. My serial number is 85J29xx. Is there any way to tell from these numbers any information about the tracks? I'll also need to find the sprocket teeth numbers. My book only provides the sprocket group for 85J1-85J1162. The segment list for these S/Ns are 6k1430. Does anyone know if they will fit?
3P7153 & 3P7154 are the part numbers listed for your machine 85J29xx. The tracks on your machine are not loader tracks for the simple reason that they have a single grouser setup that would be used on a dozer. The only grouser options listed for a 955K in your S/N range are a triple grouser and a flat shoe. That does not mean you can't use them though, just saying that the shoes were never really designed to use on a loader. In the latest Parts Manuals the first group of 85J machine goes from 85J1-4671. Your machine falls into that group. Regarding the sprockets. Does your machine have a total of 8 segments installed..? Of these segments, 5 will have 4 bolts fixing them to the hub, and 3 will have 3 bolts.
I don't remember your serial number, how about putting your serial number in your sig to make it easier to look up parts.
It's in post #201 above - 85J29xx. Falls into the S/N Range 85J1-85J4671
That's the point, we can all go back and search, but it sure would be nice if we all didn't have to do that. Mine are there all the time, but if someone didn't want to leave it there, it could be added for a big project, then removed later. Removing later will clear it over all previous post
Good Idea AllDodge. I tried to put it in, let's see if it works. Nigel - thanks for the reply. Yes, it has 8 segments 4-4 bolt and 4-3 bolt.
Sorry, 5 and 3, one has a broken bolt!
6K1430 contains 8 segments; 5 x 4-bolt and 3 x 3-bolt. It is the correct part for a machine S/N 85J29xx. If you get round to replacing the sprocket segments I suggest that you pay close attention to inspect if any of them show any signs of having been loose. If that is the case the bolt holes in the rim will likely be wallowed oval and even with new bolts correctly tightened there is a good chance that the replacement segments might also tend to move which is not good. Come back and post again if you find that your segments have been moving before installing the replacements. Back to your track shoes. You have to be aware that dozer tracks are designed for traction and for pushing loads in a straight line, that's why they have tall single grousers. Usually when a dozer turns it's with the blade in the air, not like a loader that often turns with a loaded bucket in the air. The high dozer grousers will put stresses on all the undercarriage components - idlers, track rollers, carrier rollers, and sprockets. I'm not saying you shouldn't use those dozer tracks, just that you have to be aware of their downside when used on a track loader.
Got my shoes and segments from CAT but they were aftermarket from Korea. They were the best price because of free shipment. Where I went wrong was taking almost a year before installing. During install found out I was missing 3 segments, so guess my good deal was not such a good one. Had to buy CAT replacements because the aftermarket only sold in sets
Thanks for the replies All Dodge and Nigel. I'm waiting on a cost estimate from Rodney at OffRoad. I'm only using this on my farm so it won't get a lot of heavy use other than pushing trees around and maybe some road building. I will watch the turning while loaded.
Your tracks chain are for loaders just the pads aren't and you can't put the pads on backwards .You may want to call your Cat dealer and talk to the PSSR guy , they will usually look at your tractor and give you some real advice about your wreck ,most have 3 lines of undercarriage with different prices. Just looking at your picture you have roller bolts missing, one has the bearing out ,your idler is tipped wrong wear plates missing ,push rod bent and welded off center on yoke ,adjuster missing bolts ,Top roller wore out and who knows what the bottom rollers look like . Good luck Bob
Thanks for the feedback Bluox. As I stated in an earlier post, this is my first cat so am pretty much a virgin here! Yes, I believe she has been used a lot and probably abused a bit as well since I believe she was used in a land fill for a while. Maybe they put dozer tracks on her instead of loader tracks? Is it possible to put the entire track on backwards? I picked her up cheap. So far I have rebuilt the shift linkage, corrected some hydraulic lines under neath, picked up a belly pan and the spring guards from a bone yard and had the local hydraulic shop repack the tilt cylinders. The lift cylinders show a little leakage but not enough to worry about for now. Total investments so far are a little over $1000. She fires up and runs good. I've done a little work with it, just to check it out and then parked it for the past 2 years given the spring problems. I'm looking to get it in good enough shape to use (safely). I don't plan on a lot of heavy use but sometimes need a big machine. I appreciate all feedback everyone has been providing. I am no foreigner to turning a wrench, just have never worked on one of these before.
Just on the offhand there is more lurking in those truck frames, you may want to pull them COMPLETELY off after cutting away those recoil springs. Finding out you have to after starting back on with other parts will just extend the grief. Rails split, idlers off, get all the tractor frame blocked on heavy cribbing then one side at a time disassemble the frames and remove from the tractor. I would be looking real close as to bottom rollers, possible broken bolts on frames mounting and so on then reverse the rails as you go back together. There is always a reason these machines become cheap to buy. As to the Dozer shoes, the undercarriage will take some abuse, using it as a loader and swinging a loaded bucket either to a truck or spoil pile will be hard on everything on the bottom when doing that. That is why the suggestion to inspect it all NOW as the rails need to come off anyway.
DMiller, thanks for the help. I plan on taking the tracks completely off and reverse the tracks before I put new coils on. Once I get the tracks off, what do I look for to tell what is worn out? I will take pics and post for everyone,.
As suggested above. Call your local Cat dealer and ask for the Undercarriage PSSR guy. Usually (at least if you give them the impression that there is a parts order in it for them) the dealer will offer a free undercarriage measurement service and a written report. Ask about any costs involved for the inspection/report with the dealer before you commit to having the site visit by the rep. That report should form the basis of your plan going forward regarding what you need, or can afford, to do to the undercarriage.
As you do not know what to look for follow Nige's advice, better to have a guy or gal that does it day in and out look to validate what is shot what is useable and what should be disassembled to inspect properly.
Thanks Nigel and DMiller. I will see what I can find out
Hey you guys, I am wondering how much this thing is worth. I used it over the weekend to move some trees about. I had to add some hydraulic oil but it only turned over 5 or 6 times and pureed like a kitten. I have figured out that I will get more use out of a bobcat so I am looking to sell or trade this 955. Any advice?
So far, I have had the tilt cylinders re- packed, rebuilt the shift linkage, changed the hydraulic oil and filters, and was getting ready to do the springs and stops as I have been posting.
Hey everyone, I am once again working on my 955K. I ordered all the parts from Offroad Equipment to fix the recoils. I also ordered new sprocket segments for both sides. First, I will be rebuilding the lift cylinders. Both are leaking and one is really leaking. Here are some pics as I start the cylinder stem removal Can anyone tell me anything to watch for on these lift cylinder stem removal. Nigel- thanks for the sprocket segment numbers. Evidently someone put newer rear hubs on this 966K!
I used my backhoe to remove the cylinders. After removing bolts and disconnecting lines, used a chain thru the eye and pulled it out
All dodge, thanks for the suggestion. Do you have to unhook the push side of the incoming lines? When i pulled the stems out of the tilt cylinders, that is what I did and it made it much easier. I did not know if not opening the line would cause any internal hydraulic issues. I plan on using my bobcat to pull the stems or a had cable winch.
AllDodge disregard the above, I see where you said you disconnected the lines. I must have been half asleep last night!
Its going to get messy, oil pours out It went back in easy enough. Used the backhoe with strap on the rod to lift into position, and was able to slide it back in by hand.
Thanks again. AllDodge. I had to use straps as well on the tilt stems too. Some of my order from Offroad Equipment is coming today! Should be getting my new recoils and adjuster bits
I also had a 5 gallon bucket to catch what I could and will do the same this time. How log did it take you to remove the lift cylinders? Did you have to replace anything on the line connections?
Didn't take long to remove once things were setup to do it. Reinstall didn't take much longer. The thing that took the most time was I needed new rods. The place I took rods to cut it off and welded new ones on. I did replace the square rings (o-ring) on the connections. Got about 10 off ebay as I remember
AllDodge, Thanks again for the info
Ok everyone. Had some good weather today so yanked out the two lift cylinder stems. Used a hand cable wrench and strap. Hooked the cable wench to the bucket and the strap through the eye of the stem and both gave little resistance! Managed to collect about 9 gallons of oil, lost at least one gallon. The stems have a small amount of scarring but should polish up nicely. I loosened the back lines, but no fluid drained out. Do I have to take them completely loose?Here are some pics.
Does anyone know what the mechanism is that is up by the lift arm on the right side? I thought it might be to loop over something to hold the bucket up.
The manual isn't that clear, but ........... Lift bucket (1) to the maximum height and tilt it fully forward. Lock the lift arm and the loader frame with pin (2) and the washer.
The arm lock bracket say it works very well, the issue is don't know of anyone which has the pin to screw into after positioning to hold
Thanks Nige. That is kind of what I thought it was used for. Regarding the loft cylinders, when I put the stems back in, is there any trick to getting the air out of the cylinders or will it work out on its own?
With lines disconnected, the cylinder will push air out as it goes back in. Any air left behind will self purge by moving full length a few times
Also when you first move the cylinders, don’t extend to full stroke immediately. Start by going about half-way then back again, but not right back to the bottom. Continue cycling the cylinders back and forth increasing the stroke each time until finally you reach full stroke. It will need someone watching the oil level in the tank while you do this. Don’t let it get too low, stop and top up if necessary. In fact a good idea would be to initially fill the tank to the neck, because you know the level is going to fall as you remove air from the cylinders.
AllDodge, thanks, did you have to completely disconnect the lines to the back of the cylinders? Also, the way I have my loader positioned, when I put the stems back in, they will be 3/4 extended. Should I put them back in all the way to the bottom and the use the hydraulics to push them out to where they will attach to the lift arms?
I just had the bolts on the lines removed, the air will escape easy on reassembly It did not matter the position of the stems on assembly, mine where a bit farther then 3/4 and no issues. As Nige mentioned, just cycle and all of it will purge
Thanks Nige. Great suggestions. It makes good sense too.
At first I’d install the cylinders part extended as you have them now, then cycle them to bleed the air out before connecting them to the loader arms. If a cylinder has air in it you’ll find it very difficult to get accurate control of movement. It will move in a series of jerks rather than being smooth, not what you want when you’re trying to line up a pin, not to mention having your fingers around the area.
AllDodge, thanks again. You and Nige have been great! I am having a local Cat guy come out and look at my machine, the recoils and adjusters to tell me what he thinks. He said that to replace the recoils with the tracks being alligator clipped, it would not be too hard. I will torch the existing recoils with some chain wrapped around them to pull out the old ones. Once out, is there anything I should look for ahead of putting in the new adjusters and coils?
Nige, thanks, that will be my plan. I will post more pics when I put them back together. When I split the tracks to put them back on the right way (recall they are backwards from my earlier posts), is there an easy way to reassemble? Anything to watch for?
Your probably right Nige, but I fully connected cylinders (pins, lines), then fired the machine up
I don't know of an easy way, the entire rail, pads and all comes off and gets put back on. Maybe have master at the sprocket mid way. Brake track then jack up left side of machine enough that the track can be pulled out from under it. The top gets pulled forward so it rolls out on the ground. Turn around and get back under it. Need a backhoe or excavator, or at least a tractor to help
I’ll send you something regarding R&I for tracks.
AllDodge - I will be using my bobcat skid loader to help me move things about. I have to figure out how to Jack up the loader. I thought about using the bucket to lift the front up, block it and then Jack up the back end with a 20 ton jack. What do you think? Nige - thanks, looking forward to the info.
Maybe do it the other way, rear first, jack and block Thought about it some more last night and wonder if the machine sprocket could walk completely off the rail, maybe with rolling on wood of something. Wouldn't want to do it in gravel. Then turn track and walk it back on. Right side would be doing most the work. Just spit balling, maybe someone else has a better idea
AllDodge, thanks . I thought about that too but was not sure if it would work . I have a nice oak 4x6 from an old house tear down that would work. I put the lift cylinders back together today. Sorry about the lack of pics. ;-( All seems to work like new with mo leaks. Put in 10 gallons of hydraulic oil,. Raised half way up and down and then all the way up.
I have another question. When I first start this thing up. It seems like it does not want to move after I put it in gear. I rebuilt it up about 1/2 throttle and it moves about okay . It's like it suffers a bit of morning sickness before it is ready to go. Anyone have any ideas?
Does it perform the same both when cold and also after it has been warmed up..?
Better warmed up
Also it runs better when throttled up
What type and grade of oil do you have in the transmission..?
Its a power shift trans and it doesn't do much until the rpms are up. It needs at least half throttle and likes it better WOT. Have you cleaned the screen in bottom of trans?
A service with new filters and cleaning the screen would be a good next step. Deciding what oil to put in it after the service might be worth discussing at this time. I'm wondering if a multigrade oil meeting TO-4 specification might be the way to go in the ambient conditions at the OP's location. There are both 0W-20 and 10W-30 varieties kicking around, amongst others.
AllDodge, Nige, thanks again. I have not worked on anything related to the transmission. I assume I would have to drop the tranny pan? Any diagrams? Will I need any filters?
Have you got a Operation & Maintenance Manual yet..? If not that might be a good next step. All the "how to" instructions should be there although not necessarily filter Part Numbers
Agree you could use a manual The screen can be accessed from under the machine without removing the bell pan. If I remember correctly there is a plate covering it and 9/16 bolts holding it on. Need to drain the trans first I'll get into SIS a bit later and post a pic
Thanks. I have s parts manual. I need to get a maintenance manual. I will see what I can find on-line. Where is the drain plug for the tranny. While I am thinking about it, I have too much oil in the fill tube with "case" marked on it that sits beside the transmission fill. Where do I drain the case at?
Looks like memory wasn't working very well today. Nige has the screen and filter pointed out in post 12. The one I'm thinking about is the drain Both drains are under the machine
Which tank is it that is under the belly below the driver's seat? It has about a 2" drain plug?
AllDodge. thanks for recalling that. Yes, I cleaned that out back during that time frame. As I recall, it was not bad. I had posted what i found. I can check again though
Did you also change the oil and filter at the same time you cleaned out the suction screen..? If so what oil did you put in it..?
I changed out the oil and I think I changed out the filter I used trans-hydraulic oil that I think was 15w
Manual list 30W TO-4 for above 32* and 10W for below that
AllDodge, thanks. I will double check to see which oil I used.
AllDodge, do you think 10 or 15 W is too thin for warm weather use?
My opinion is yes because CAT says to use 30W and they are the designers.
Ok, I may try to drain and refill with a heavier grade hydraulic oil. I may try a multi-grade
For your type of climate a multigrade TDTO oil would probably be the best thing. Cat call their version TDTO-TMS. Other oil sompanies also produce a similar product. These oils work exptremely well in climates that have significant ambient temperature variations between winter and summer. They are pretty well de rigeur in Canada. It is worth remembering that mutligrade powertrain oils meeting TO-4 specification were not on the market when your machines were first built.
Nige- thanks a bunch. I have been looking for a brochure like this! It looks like I can use current hydraulic coils between 10w and 30w pending seasons. Do you think I can use a multi-grade oil that is made for heavy equipment but not necessarily made by Cat and get similar performance?
A correction. You do not want to be using hydraulic oil of any type in a transmission. Hydraulic oil does not contains the friction modifiers necesssary to work with transmission clutches or with wet brakes. The oil you are looking for is usually called a powertrain oil and should meet Caterpillar TO-4/TO-4M or Allison C-4 specifications. Most oil companies manufacture multigrade versions of it. Monograde TO-4 oils such as 10W, 30, or 50 are usually mineral oils, the multgrades seem to be generally synthetics. Here's the Phillips66 offering - https://phillips66lubricants.com/product/powerdrive-synthetic-all-season-to-4-fluid/
Thanks Nige. I will see what I can find locally
Nige. Do you know where transmission fluid might be going? I don't see any leaks but am low on transmission fluid and I am pretty sure I filled it up previously
Can the transmission oil go anywhere else in this machine, like in the case?
What do you mean by the case? It can run into the belly pan, leak to final drive, into cooling system from oil cooler
Am I right in thinking that both the fill points for the transmission and the rear end are right next to one another on your machine.? The transmission fill point is arrowed, the other one is the rear end. If you are not 100% certain that you filled the correct one when you were topping up with oil IMHO your first step really ought to be to set both levels correct, then monitor them going forward.
Nige, AllDodge, thanks for your responses. Nige- Those are the fill points. I have topped off the tranny fluid before and I ran it yesterday and found I was low on tranny fluid. I put what I had on hand and it was fine. My rear end fluid (labeled "case") is actually over full and I am not sure how to drain some of it out. I don't know where the tranny fluid went. I don't see anywhere that it might have leaked. AllDodge - Are you saying the tranny oil can leak into the final drive? Does the fact that I seem to be over full in my "case" or rear end play into the possible issue? If so, what might cause this or better yet, what do I need to fix?
Yes seal number 17 is what keeps the oils separated and if it fails then tranny leaks into bevel gear. Under the machine there is a plug (item 27) for the bevel gear to drain it. It way be covered by a access plate with smaller bolts The final drive fills plugs (item 25) are on each side
AllDodge, thanks! How much of job is it to replace seal 17? Wh as t problem will happen with mor oil in the rear end than what should ?
I haven't done it but there is another guy here which has. He said it all comes out the rear, so no need to remove the motor. Look for the other 955 threads and will find
Sorry, I was wondering what problems may be caused by the tranny oil mixing in with the rear end oil?
They both use same lube TO-4 so no issue with that Over filling the gears may blow seals out and start filling up final drives. From memory think finals use 50W.
AllDodge, Thanks!
Seem to be having same problem with my 955l, transmission oil is going somewhere. Just removed suction hose and o-rings to magnet screen housing . Hose was rotten, seals were brittle, causing pump to suck air.
Digginjake, thanks for your response I still need to get into mine.
Well, its been a couple of weeks since I gave my last update. Here are a few pics of my lift cylinders after new seals and no leaks.
I drained about 8 gallons of fluid from my final drives. My book says 2.5 gallons on each side for final drives but there is only one "case" fill point by the transmission fill point. I did find these on the back of each side. Are they for filling the final drives?
The picture above shows the "case" and "trans" fill points. Is the one marked "case" the fill for the bevel gear and steering clutch case or the final drives?
When I noted above about removing 8 gallons from the final drives, I drained the fluid from the drain plug under the center back of the loader, towards the back of the loader from the transmission drain.
That appears to be where my transmission fluid is going. Is that possible?
The center back of the loader would be the bevel gear The drain point for the finals is below the fill
AllDodge, thanks. I drained the bevel gear fluid. That is what the fill point by the transmission and marked "case" fills. That is also where my tranny oil is going. Any ideas what is causing that?
Post 279 shows the seal that separates the trans from the bevel gear. That is how the trans is leaking into the bevel gear
Kind of a dumb question But how d6 I see post numbers? I assume it is the post with the pics and seal #17 that you previously sent? Also please excuse my ignorance, but are the bevel gears considered part of the final drives? Thanks again for all your help. You guys are great!
Bevel gears is like the differential (ring and pinion which turn axles) The axles shafts rotate into the final drives which are additional gears which rotate the sprockets Post numbers are bottom right hand side of post next to quote and replay
AllDodge, thanks for the schooling. all I see is "like", "quote ", and "reply' on the bottom right. I loked back at your thread in 3015 replacing your coils and more. I still haven't tackled mine, too busy. I bought all new coils, adjusters, stops, ... any words of wisdom from your experience?
2015...
With me cutting them they came out pretty easy. Only wisdom, is don't try to collapse the springs your self, get a service to put them under tension. Once there drop in and secure When your ready to release the tension, get a piece of pipe to put in the track to load the coils further so it can be backed off I'm using a computer, if your using your phone maybe your unable to see the numbers, don't know otherwise
Ok, thanks for the added information. I'm using my phone so maybe it is the mobile version that doesn't have the post # referenced
Post Numbers certainly don’t show up on my smart phone, but they do on the PC.
I logged in with my PC and can indeed see the post numbers.
AllDodge, Nige, Regarding the seal back on post 279, I assume there is one for each final dirve/bevel gear compartment. Is that the case?
The seal on post 279 was the single seal between transmission and bevel gear The seal between bevel and final is 3J0365 and there is one on each side
Thanks AllDodge.