OK, got the 955 stuck last Sunday. Was working on digging out a pond. No big deal except it rained 4+" and now the engine is under water. (yes, it was totally dry when I started, drove all over it) Pedals are out, you get it. Slanted forward about 30 degrees, so hence engine under. I know I need to drain engine oil, transmission fluid, final drive, (hyd may be ok) and change filters. What am I forgetting? I will also pull the injectors before trying to crank it over. I assume (but hope not) that there is water in the cylinders. Exhaust is out and so is air filter, but want to be safe. Thanks Wags Oh, I know I need to remove starter, alternator and disassemble, clean, etc. I just want to get it back to running, circulate fluids and change again if necessary.
your forgetting a Sky hook, those come in handy , or maybe a good pump
I'm hoping the neighbors Case quad track tractor will get it out. He says is weight 50K. That ought to do it. BTW, if you guys help me out... I promise to post a pic. Wags
pictures Wags, you have got to post pics... that is just a given.... there is a picture (here is the link to the thread ) of my 955 stuck in the mud only a short time after my first time using it... it is how we get better. btw, what model of 955 is yours?? rod
Wags, sorry to hear you got sunk. That not only sucks but also sounds Very expensive. Man, with oil at ridiculous prices of like $15 a gallon, and the price of filters for those big cats thru the roof, i feel for ya. Hope you can get her outta there before any more damage happens to it. Good Luck!
Here is a pic when we got there yesterday (Fri). We rented a 3" pump.. after 4 refills the top rear of the trcks are out of the water... Actually the left rear sprocket is half out, barely on left top track. I don't remember the right. The neighbor decided not to help. Thanks for saying yes, then no. We tugged today and broke 3/8" chains. We got 150' of 5/8 cable and wil try again tomorrow. Wags
If the pond bottom is very soft you may want to consider getting a pulley attached to the loader and going to a two part line with that 5/8 cable.
It had not rained for months (over 1/4"). The dam was cut out for the last year, so the bottom is actually pretty solid. I walked out to it and was no sinking donwn. We are going to cable over the ROPS to the bucket to get it up in the air. Less drag. Hopefully that will help. Actually I still have a chain hung on the left track from the log trick. I came home and got my big ass bolt cutters today. Surely the log not dragging will help TONS! Any other suggestions? Miracle! Wags
Water will displace every bit of oil in any compartment that is not sealed tightly. It will even force it's way into some compartments that are poorly sealed or the seals worn severely. Even if you drain and flush all the compartments on your loader, you will have to do it several times, untill you can detect no moisture at all either by eyesight, or better, by oil sample results. Check with your oil supplier, there are a couple of products on the market that help reduce water damage and rust. It's been a long time since I've used any, 1994 in fact was the last time. Last but not least, and this is for everyone on the forum, do not park your equipment is a place that may be prone to flooding. Not even overnight. I've seen it too many times, the equipment is parked above a dam or in a low spot in a cut or a fill, and the next morning, all that can be seen is a serene pond with maybe a rain cap or a bit of ROPS structure showing above the water. Not cool! Good Luck.
My plan is to drain all the fluids (maybe not hyd as it should be sealed), remove injectors, and put diesel fluid in place. It is in the tank above, has some lube, will prevent rust, then go back drain, filters, check, repeat as needed. Your advice is excellent. IF I had worked all night (and would not have) I'd still be ahead. Oh, well, the fluids all needed changed anyway. I did not want to do it this way, though. Wags
I have worked all night to free a D-8K that the boss stuck in a pond because it was in danger of looking loke your 955. It was no fun, but better than what you are now faced with. I would get a bigger cable. 5/8 is not enough, unless 3 or 4 parts of line are used through pulleys. I would try to find a 7/8 or bigger cable. Use a good pulley at the 955. Deadman to something, and pull with a good sized something. I broke 11/2" cable trying to pull the D-8K out single lined. Didn't have any pulley close to big enough, so I hooked the bucket of the 235 over the ripper bar and got it out. It don't look like you have that option, so be sure to get heavy enough cable. Chain is a non starter. Just get someone hurt or killed. Same with too small of a cable. Good luck, and don't get anyone hurt. Recoveries like this can be very dangerous. Have everyone involved farther away than the cable is long, and preferably behind something substantial. Make sure there is a good screen behind the operator of whatever is pulling. I have had broken cable hit the screens so hard I thought that it was coming on through. This was with 1" rock plant screens well attached.
Thanks for the warnings/ tips. We will do our best not to tear up any equipment or ourselves. Wags I'll keep you posted.
OUT! Ok, so it took a 1 ton tow truck with 3 snatch blocks, (we actually had it moving a couple of inches at a time, but to damn slow so we called another one) and a 4500 GMC tow truck straight line with 2 winches hooked. Nothing to it. I drained the engine water (oil), ready to pull glow plugs to get water out of cylinders. I found the bevel gear drain plug. Where is the trans drain plug? The bottom has mud packed under it, so I'd like to dig that stuff out as little as possible before starting, moving, draining again. I am also going to have to dig out the final drive plugs. It may not have water in them. (one can hope, right?) Will work on that tomorrow. Then start, run a few, move a little, and repeat. Wags
To be safe, when you get the injectors out, bar the engine over before you crank it, to get the bulk of the oil out. You can still bend a rod if you crank it with the injectors out. Seen it done.
Roger that. That was my plan. I will dump in some diesel fuel and repeat. Then crank. Thanks Wags
Well, engine water drained. Bevel gear case water drained. Trans water drained. Ready to start, move, drain, repeat. Wags
photos?
I started Ted yesterday. Engine oil looks amazingly great. Trans looks as expected. I did not check bevel gear case yet. He is still stuck. Not in water, but we were not able to pull him up without help to where he was high and dry. Well, it probably would have been ok, but it rained some more this week. Does anyone have filter numbers handy? Fuel Filter Engine Oil Filter Engine Air Filters Primary and Secondary Trans Filter (cartrige type) Does the final drive (steering clutch and bevel gear case) have any sort of fiter in it? I don't believe so. What am I forgetting? I looked online at the cap manual but i cannot see part numbers or blow up the drawings. It is pretty **** poor. Thanks Wags