I replaced all gauges on my 955L but I can not find where the sending probe goes for the Torque Converter Temp. The Temp probe must have rusted in two because the lead from the old gauge was just hanging along side the machine. Does anyone know where it goes?
Hi alldodge you have to lower belly pan The sender for torque temerature gauge is right were the line leaves torque going to cooler here only picture I could find
I could see that spot and thought it maybe there, yeepie skippy. Droping the belly pan is going to be a job, will probably loose most of the oil when the sender is pulled. Noticed a round plate on that side of the belly pan which resembles an inspection plate, maybe I'll get lucky and find that's what it is and maybe I can reach it without the full drop of the pan. Sure do appricate the info, many thanks PAcattech
You will only loose a bit of oil. Get your new line ready to put in, then pull the old bulb out. Hope the old one just broke off and adapter is still there. If a 5/8" wrench fits it it's likely the bulb. Later Bob
Glow Plugs Thanks Bob/Ont will give it a try. Have a second question: what makes the glow plugs turn on? Is there a way to determine when they are on and off?
The glow plugs are powered from the heat/start switch. Assuming your wiring is original and in good condition you should see a 5 amp discharge per glow plug in the heat or start position. Your 4 cyl should have a 20 amp draw and a 6 cyl should have a 30 amp draw. The glow plug power is a heavy purple wire. Later Bob
Well got all of the gages in but have yet to tackle the converter probe, looks like the wire just broke off on it. The fuel pressure gauge showed me I needed to replace the fuel filter again, with so few hours on the filter I must have some crud in the tank. The heat/start switch was replaced by the Cat standard key start switch. Found the only time the glow plugs would come on is when it was cranking. The reset switch switch was tripped and would trip everytime I tried to start. Who ever tried to rewire didn't know a lot about requirements. Put in a 30AMP momentary on push button switch in where the instrament light switch was (didn't work or need it). Pulled all of the glow plug connectors off and reconnected one at a time finding cylinder one his shorted. Guess I may need another glow plug and may as well replace them all. Have always used either to start when cold and who knows I may be able to start without using either. Thanks for the help.
Replacing glow plugs is a good investment. Also a proper Heatstart switch is in order too. You need to heat for up to 3 min before cranking some times. Then crank without fuel a bit before pulling it on. Later Bob
Thanks Bob Up to 3 min, never figured it would be on that long but this is my fist piece of track gear. Question: Why and when should I crank without fuel before turning the fuel on? Bob (I'm a Bob also)
Bob (the alldodge one) lol.... I don't think you have to worry about when to turn the fuel on. Being from kentucky, your winter weather is about like Bob's ( the ontario one) summer weather...... lol.
Your engine is Precombustion Chamber with low nozzle pressure. It needs more cyl temp to fire the fuel than a Direct Injection engine. If you pull the fuel on too soon while cranking and get white smoke out the stack with no firing the cyl temp isn't hot enough. Shut fuel off and heat then crank some more untill you get a bit of firing while cranking. Later Bob
grandpa; I get the pun but speeking with laditude in mind, Ontario is further North than Minnesota umless were talking about Toronto. Either way I spent a bit of time in Minneapolis during the winter, and MN knows two season, winter and road constructions. Have a good one Thanks, guess if it gets down close around zero I need to spend more time heating. Sure do appreicate the help.
Alldodge - The reason why this technique is used - and why it has been the recommended technique for all precombustion-chamber-style Cat diesels since they were first introduced - is because cranking with the fuel off, and on compression (i.e. - if your old Cat has a decompression lever, it should be on "run") raises the combustion chamber temperature rapidly as the piston pumps against compression. This cranking action with fuel off generates heat that pre-warms the combustion chamber. After a minute of cranking with no fuel, opening the throttle injects fuel into the prewarmed combustion chamber and she fires right up. Admitting fuel to a cold combustion chamber only generates a pile of white smoke and increases the starter load, reducing the cranking speed. As diesels rely on good cranking speed to fire up, any degradation in cranking RPM will further reduce the ability of the engine to fire up. You use this technique when the ambient starting temperature is in low single figures or below zero. If the engine has been running recently, or the ambient temperature is in the 50's and 60's F, then you shouldn't need to crank with fuel off, the engine should fire straight up with throttle on.
Appreicate the info, thanks. Mine is about a 1978 model and I don't think it has a decompression lever, at least nothing that stands out. As before, this is my first piece of heavy equipment and I have that long learning curve going on. Replaced one of the batteries yesterday and she turns over much faster. Found first thing in the AM the one battery was showing 10.4 volts, the other was at 13.
Update: Installed glow plugs and she now fires right up without either. Was also changing oil and antifreeze and with the arms all the way up and blocked, started looking at the torque converter probe location. Memories of comments about my long arms came back from high school (knuckler drager). I slide in between the tracks and boom and found I could reach the probe end. Another 20 minutes of hand cramps and the probe was replaced. The hardest part was getting the old one out. Nut width of the old one was about 1/4 inch, the new one has better than 1/2 in thickness. So if you have some long arms it can be done without dropping the pan.
Thanks for the update. My temperature gauge is stuck in the middle. Can the gauge be seperated from the probe or is the gauge and probe all one assembly? Do you have the locking pin style or the big u shaped hunk of metal that clamps to the cylinder rod? It's scary being under all of that weight.
The gauge is all one piece and is fairly easy to replace. I have the pin (probe) end with a 5/8 nut on the back which screws in the thermostate housing securing the probe.