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980G Brake booster pump question

Boss ยท 2014-01-13 18:09

We were wondering if there is anyway to change the boosting pump for the brakes without pulling the cab. Trying to save sometime as we need to send the loader to work soon.

Replies10
  1. #1kshansen2014-01-13 18:19

    I just pulled the cab off one of our 980G's to replace some bad orings on that pump assembly. I guess anything might be possible with the right combination of sockets and extensions, but not something I would want to try if I had an option of lifting the cab. Removing the cab is not that hard, looks much worse that it is. I could give a few hints from my experience if you would like.

  2. #2Boss2014-01-13 18:29

    Any advice on removing the cab would be appreciated also. If it's the only option we will have to get started soon.

  3. #3Cmark2014-01-13 22:09

    At the rear of the cab; remove 2 x heater hoses, 2 x quick release AC hoses. 3 x wiring plugs. Front of the cab; Remove steering column 2 nuts and bolts, Brake valve 2 nuts. RH platform; Remove park brake cable, washer hoses. Remove 4 mounting cab bolts. As you start to lift the cab, remove the ground strap at the rear.

  4. #4kshansen2014-01-14 07:29

    Sounds like you've done the job too! One of the worst parts for me was getting the AC quick release fittings apart. The larger of the two I had to resort to very careful application of an air chisel to break it loose! I believe I left the smaller one connected to the cab and mine had a quick connect on the receiver/dryer that was easier to remove. I was a little confused by the instructions on the removal of the steering column. It said to remove the clamp bolt for the upper half of the flange assembly and slide it off the upper column. It would not slide down enough to come free so I did remove the two nuts and bolts. Not sure why they say to do it that way. Why did they have to hide that ground strap way back on the left corner? My machine, actually a Series 2, also had a two conductor Deutch connector about under the center of cab that was also only easily accessible when cab was lifted. On reassembly I found it easier to reconnect the washer hoses by removing the top of the right hand platform. The reason I pulled our cab was an oil leak on the transmission pump that the steering pump is mounted to. Found the factory had installed the suction line to the pump with a D=ring seal in place of the standard oring and the orings between the body and end plates of the pump were brittle and cracked in a few places. If I was in deep enough to remove the boosting pump for the brakes I would take the extra time to reseal the transmission pump. Handful of orings and one lip type seal.

  5. #5Per Eriksson2014-01-14 13:49

    It can be done, I have done it once on a 980G II, not fun by any means but I decided to give it a try. I'm skinny and have long arms.........

  6. #6Cmark2014-01-14 16:37

    Yes, plenty of times!. You're right. Those AC fittings can get rusted pretty solid. By nature, they're constantly wet and dry. I like to wrap some denso tape round them when I put them back together. The other thing that can make the job hard is when the cowboy electricians have been along and installed all kinds of fruit without putting connectors where the wiring leaves the cab. Including but not limited to; CCTV systems, reversing sensors, fire suppression, two way radios, payload weighing systems etc. GRRRRRR!

  7. #7kshansen2014-01-14 17:26

    I was lucky in that regard as our was bone stock and if there had been any mods I would have been the one to make them!

  8. #8jeff1122014-01-15 23:00

    I just removed a cab on one of our 980s yesterday, To replace the wire harness from the back right of the cab that connects to a 40pin connector just under the cab on the left front of the cab.I have also just lifted the right side of the cab in the past to change the brake pilot pump its a tight fit and you must remove the wire plugs on the right rear of cab, The bolts on the right and loosen the ones on the left,I also removed the left hand rail so the cab could tip further.

  9. #9kshansen2014-01-16 08:01

    Not a bad approach. I am lucky to have a shop with a 40 ton overhead crane and lots of head room so lifting cap is no problem. If I had to do the job at a different location I would go with your method. Would have been nice if Cat had given some thought in the design of the cab and made it so cab may be could be tilted forward for access.

  10. #10Nige2014-01-16 10:16

    They should have designed it the same way as the cab on the articulated trucks so it pivots to one side rasied by a small hydraulic cylinder (pretty much what the poster above did) in order to access the components under the cab.