The keeper bolt fell out of the back end of this pin. Looks like it is a smaller bolt than the others, and the threads are buggered up a bit. I don't know what that short section of chain is welded to the pin for, unless it was used to pull the pin out at some time in the past. I am probably going to end up drilling and tapping the pin for a larger bolt. I am working alone, and I hope I don't have trouble getting the whole thing to line up to put the pin back in after the repair.
I think, the pin was run dry to long and it snapped the keeper. From the look of the pin its showing pitting. The PO got the pin back in, greased it up and then welded chain to it to make a new keeper, sort of
Makes sense. Heavily neglected machine. When I got it, several of the grease nipples were broken or even missing. The ones that were still there looked like they hadn't seen grease for YEARS. Once I got the pin out, it really doesn't look too bad. Just need to tap it for a larger bolt, and I should be golden.
That pin is HARD to thread. Doubly so if you don't have a vise to hold it.
Machine shop time. Lol
I was just about to warn you what was going to happen.... but I see you figured it out
Yeah, I knew that was a possibility. Figgered if I went 1/4 turn at a time, and backed it out each time, I might get lucky. Guess not!
Why not just replace the pin?
I have lots of experience breaking taps in things... A lot will depend on the quality of tap and fluid you're using. Getting it out can be simple if a bit of impacting and removal tool works or jump right up to a lot of impacting and a good punch
you could try a Tap Extractor. http://www.waltontools.com/products/extractr.htm
Agree, many times its not that expensive for after market
I had one pin that took some work to get out of my Cat. Caterpillar wanted about $150 for it. Aftermarket was $45. After a little hunting I found one on eBay for $50 to my door. It was NOS Cat. The packaging was old and beat but the pin was perfect. Maybe you can hunt down a new one for less than a machine shop is going to charge you to fix that rusty one.
$ This is an old farm hoe that gets little use. I am not trying to make a living with it. As worn out as everything else is on the machine, it would be wasteful to spend any more money than necessary.
Machine shop just called, $20.
Machine shop just called, $20. Can we say "double post", boys and girls?
For that you get two likes
I have welded a cut off bolt (just the threads) on pins and used big washers and a nut.
Clean it up,make sure it will take grease,and then Anti-Seize the pin and bolt and polish the bores so the next poor slob won't have it so bad. (Hint-the next poor slob will be you-guaranteed!) Good luck!
I think I would want to replace that pin. I made a tap extractor one time. Broke one off in the hole for a rear shock in my Z06 Corvette. I took a small socket with an OD slightly smaller than the inside of the threads and made cutouts with a dremel and cutoff wheel. Got it so the legs fit up in the recess areas of the tap and managed to back it our with a ratchet.
Hopefully it was a harbor freight socket, not Snap-on
Machine shop did a right fine job getting the broken tap out and threading the pin. I forgot to have them remove that piece of chain. Got it all back together and ground off the chain. No matter how tight I get the keeper bolt, the pin moves with the loader arm. It appears that the outer part of the pin is bottoming out against the loader arm before the tapered portion comes tight in the loader frame. And yes, I heavily greased it (the outer part, not the tapered part). Suggestions?
Didn't think I could get the outer bolt out, with the way it had been welded on. Harbor Freight impact to the rescue. Figger if I put a washer or two behind the outer keeper, I should be in business.
Got 'er whipped! A couple of big washers for spacers, and we're good to go. It is finally pivoting in the right place.
Sometimes you can tighten the tapered part. Get some thin shim stock like .003 and put a wrap around the taper. It thickens the taper and the pin gets tight sooner and the protrusion is correct. As long as it's pulled tightly into the bore where it can't move it will stay put. It compensates for slight wear and doesn't cost much.
Some of you reading this thread are probably thinking "DUH!", but it never occurred to me to think that the pin might be shorter than it needs to be. Is it normal to have to shim them to the proper length?
To answer your question-No. It's not supposed to get loose and rotate and wear but it happens. If all is in spec it pulls in and gets tight and it will have the proper protrusion. Yours is worn though. A new pin would be a bit tighter but if it's been hammering and spinning the tapered bore is usually worn so even the new pin pulls in too far. Yours might run 20 years like it is with the light use you said it gets.The shim stock is a sort of hack but an old farm machine will run with it in there. Good luck with it!