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A25C Trans replacement

SlatcoAu · 2022-02-28 12:50

Started on the trans replacement on my A25 this weekend. Bit of work for certain. Some takeaways for those who have not done this: - Fuel lines on my truck were similar to airbrake hose from the tank and then to a adapter fitting to some type of metric flare. I had problems finding plugs so ended up having to drain the upper tank to prevent fuel from free flowing out. - Make sure your front tie downs are straight otherwise the bumper will not want to come out easily. All in all not too bad, it will be way harder re-installing. Next steps are to pull the oil cooler and send it off for cleaning testing and replace both front and rear crank seals.

Replies9
  1. #1sfrs42022-03-02 09:59

    I know Volvo recommends this way for workshop environments but our lads leave the engine in place and remove the trans down out the bottom of the machine, saves having to mess with the engine totally.

  2. #2SlatcoAu2022-03-02 17:39

    I get that sfrs4. If I didn't have the shop and didn't need to do the rear seal, I probably would have attempted that.

  3. #3Nige2022-03-02 17:41

    Did you not notice that your request for an off-highway truck seciton in the forum had been approved..? Not necessary to post in "Other" any more.

  4. #4SlatcoAu2022-03-02 17:43

    I did see that but it won't let me start new threads in there. It just stays light gray and you can't do anything as far as I can see.

  5. #5Nige2022-03-02 17:45

    Gotcha............ Need to bend a few ears in that case.

  6. #6sfrs42022-03-03 05:23

    I Just looked and there is no " post new thread" box at the top of the page option for me

  7. #7Nige2022-03-03 08:45

    Me neither. Ears have been duly bent.

  8. #8John C.2022-03-03 22:51

    That’s why my Volvo question went into other equipment.

  9. #9tctractors2022-04-22 15:47

    I have worked on big fleets of Volvo Dumpers and have always removed the transmission by itself from inside the cab, this involves pulling the Transmission back off the engine then locking the torque to the case and rotating the box 90 deg as its lowered down to the floor, this then leaves the flywheel looking at you if the rear crank seal needed replacing, I could do a transmission swap by myself including any repairs to the throttle control and change the oil cooler ready to roll in 3 days, I still have the transmission trolley that bolts to the steering mount but sad to say only gets light used now. tctractors p.s. the front pulley is mounted on a Polygon with a 13/16" A/F socket they can be difficult to remove without the correct tooling, also below the 2 hydraulic pump drives there is an oil drain and strainer fitted that is worth some effort.