Hello, everyone. My name is Don. I am working on an Allis Chalmers HD-16DC, s/n: 5414, hydraulic actuated brakes and steering clutches, with torque convertor. My brother in law purchased the machine in hopes of completing a single project on his rural property and if it survives, reselling it. The machine has had some poorly conceived repairs (As an example, just for giggles, I'll give you a tip: If the clutch won't pull in, get out the torch and cut away the floor so you can pull the lever farther. ). The major failure on this machine was in one steering clutch compartment. It looks like a brake band came loose and metal to metal wear ensued on the drum. Then somebody glued on new bands but didn't replace the drum so the glued bands got tore loose and were grinding away on the old drum. I've gone through the contaminated system flushing and cleaning as much as possible. The pump suction line had been cut so that an ineffictive suction strainer could be installed. I removed the strainer and rebuilt the tube. The pump has now been replaced and I rebuilt the coupler with the welder and grinder. All new hoses. I disassembled, cleaned, and inspected all actuators. Replaced the drum and brakes on the one side. Here is my problem and the reason for my request for assistance. I have the service and parts manual but I have two critical pages missing from the sevice manual, the adjustment and setpoints for the hydraulics. System pressure is regulated by relief valves and now that all is reassembled and installed, I don't have any idea of the setpoints. The missing pages are from Section XXIV, pp 30-31. The annotation at the bottom of the manual to identify the publication is, "HD 16 S.M. 12-61". Any guidance on the matter will be greatly appreciated. On a separate matter, general in nature, I am looking for instrument panel gauges. It has been more than 30 years since I worked in the industry and support has changed dramatically. Can anyone recommend a line of gauges for the application. I'm worried that the universal gauges available for wheeled tractors cannot withstand the vibration of this old earth mover.
I have the same manual Don Powers.I scanned in the pages you need but for some reason I cant seem to post them .Should be two hydraulic oil filters on the left hand side of the engine at the front. Look for a pipe plug on the elbo comming out of each filter,that is the pressure test port.Use at least a 1000 psi gage in the test port.Start the engine and let the oil warm up abit ,with a pressure gage on the left filter fitting pull down on the right hand steering lever all the way and see what the gage reads .At 600 rpm (low idle) they want the pressure at 420 to 430 psi, do not exceed 650 psi. Hope this helps and I'l keep trying to post the pages you need.
here ya go Don.
Thank you very much, td25c. I am greatly relieved as a result of your generosity. I was able to see the need for an 1000 psi gauge but I had no idea of the set points. I was looking at "winging it" on the set points in the mid-range of the gauge. Then checking performance and repeating the adjustment. You have saved me quite of a lot of time, reduced the risk of damage, and ensured proper operating conditions for the tractor. I am very grateful. Let me know if I can do something for you. We hope to have the machine running some time in August. I still need to service and make some minor repairs in the engine area. We've had some setbacks as a result of the wet weather since I'm working in the field. Still, the rain can't last forever. I hope. Thanks again. Don.
Thats great Don!Just glad I still had the info you needed.We still use a 16-B today.My first dozer was a HD 16 AC model.It would have been the predecessor of the HD 16 DC. Mine had the torque converter in front of the manual transmission.It was a pleasure to operate. HeavyEquipmentForums Good luck with the repairs on the DC & have fun operating it.
I still haven't finished yet. My schedule has been all crazy and I can only get to it once a week so we are behind. I hope we can get it working this fall, we're running out of time. I did get it all together and started. I've got a stuck injector pump that is giving me fits. I think the same pump is causing the control sleeve to bind, the control rod won't move either. I filled the injector pump fuel sump with penetrating oil, but that didn't work. I've been wiggling and tapping but still no go. Some kind of special tool might give me a little more leverage. I hate the idea of pulling out the delivery valve assembly. I might have to. For those interested in a line of gauges, GB Instruments http://www.gbinstruments.com/ has a line of reasonably priced gauges. If you need 24 vdc lighting and plan on ordering from the site, be sure to contact customer service right away. They'll convert the bulb before shipment. A standard order comes with 12 vdc lighting. When we get it running, I'll put up some pictures. Sorry for the delay.
Thats great Don. Dont know of an easy way to unstick the plunger in the pump. The penetrating oil sounds like a good idea. Keep persevering & good luck on the 16 project.
Thanks, td25c. "Perseverance". I'm in the jack hammer mode on the pump. A thousand hammer blows vs. one or two whacks. I've got in mind making a reverse spring compressor to add some constant pressure while tapping. The only other idea right now is to add some head pressure to the sump with air, forcing the fluid. It originally had 5 stuck pumps. Fresh diesel in the sump for a few days freed up 4 of them. The one that is stuck was probably at full stroke when the machine was shut down.
I got the injector pump and control rod free. I don't know if I should tell you how, it's pretty gruesome. It involves a utility trailer, 2 ton come-along, and 50 feet of rope. Here's the tool I made: I bridged the tool between the pump spring and some wood blocks inside the fender on the frame. Then I attached the rope to the eyebolt and slipped it under the frame. Connected the rope to a come-along attached to the trailer. Basically, the tool was made to give me some constant downward pressure on the piston rod and to provide a striking surface for the hammer. The pump didn't just drop... I tapped on it for quite a while with only minor success. In the end, I threw caution to the wind and gave it a couple of good whacks with a medium sized ball peen hammer. It dropped but it wasn't free. I took off the flywheel timing mark access cover and and jacked the engine a little to move the cam pushing the pump, backed it off, and reapplied the tool. After the fourth time, the injector pump and control rod were totally free. I suspect some bit of corrosion had set up and was keeping the pump and control sleeve jammed up. That's a relief. Now I can move on to the charging system and getting the machine moving.
Thats quite an ingenious tool & plan to solve the problem Don! Glad it woked out. I've had to make a few tools over the years & somewhat rewrite the ruel book at times.LOL! By the sound of it I would say the old HD16 has found a good home
Don. Did you rebuild your hyd steering pump or get a used one? Mine's gone south! 16dc, s/n6192, straight shift & oil converter. Any help on that would be much appreciated. Also check the strainer in the oil tank (if yours is a oil converter) were the suction line to the pump connects to the tank. mine was pluged a little and the end to the strainer was missing. Also mine has the steering pump strainer up by the radiator in front of the two filters for the steering. Forrest
Hi, Forrest We bought a used hydraulic steering pump. With the heavy contamination in the system, the tolerances on the gears were way out of line. I did consider having new gears made but it was too expensive. I did rebuild the drive coupling. It is a simple piece of steel so I laid some bead down with a little mig welder and dressed it by hand. Putting the coupling in is a little touchy. You have to put some grease on it and hope it sticks in the engine while you put the pump on. I sweated the start up for fear the coupling had fallen down. If circumstances had been different, I would have liked to turn the engine and confirm good operation. It's a little difficult to get the pump in but not impossible. I had the servo valve all apart so I made sure the relief valves were backed off. Just to make it easy on start up. I actually cleaned the whole hydraulic system and put new hoses on. Someone had cut the suction line and put an extra strainer in to catch the metal from the brake drum. It didn't work. I had to rebuild a section of the suction tubing when I took that extra strainer out. The exact tubing was not available locally so I went ahead and used tubing with a slightly smaller ID. This machine has a suction strainer with magnet on the bottom of the transmission. Filtering is done after the pump. The oil flows to the brake sumps, overflows to the gear sump and transmission where the pump draws a suction. I put the blade in the ground before winter just to get a feel for how things are going. I patched a leak in the radiator and I still have to sort out the voltage regulator. It's got the wrong one on it but I think I can make it work. The machine has sat for a long time. The steering clutch that I didn't work on is sticking. I'm hoping with a gentle touch that will clear up. The torque converter is a little stiff, too. You wouldn't believe the crap that comes out of the torque converter (returning to the fuel tank) after I load the machine. Even though the hydraulic system was the most damaged, I didn't find any real difficulty in dealing with it. I'm not really a 'mechanic' so that should tell you something. On getting the pump, I called a place and the guy was a know-it-all so I ended up with filter tanks that were not compatible. I just used the old ones. I tried to give him the serial numbers but he insisted he knew exactly what it was. Well, he didn't. The pump worked though and that is what counts. I'd say you should try to make sure you get the right thing before they ship. It could get expensive shipping parts to and fro with no warranty. My service and parts manuals only go to S/N 5900. I won't be able to help with reference but I can tell you what I did. It's a simple machine so you should do well. Good luck. Don
Finally got it in the dirt. Pictures as promised.