Just picked up what a believe to be a ’67 D grader. Serial # is 6676. This is a retired utilities grader that was put out to pasture. The motor is tired but was parked running with carburetor problems so the city mechanic took off the carb about two years ago and is now missing. Hopefully he can come up with it in a couple of day???? Anyway, I would like to know if someone can tell me for sure if it’s a ’67 and some engine info such as is it a 226 engine. Can someone tell me if there a tractor I can I can look for that I could get a carb from, if so, what model and year tractor do I need to look for. Any and all info would really be appreciated.... I’m also looking for a service manual for this ’67 model. Can someone tell me what's going on with the blade?? Seem like there is an attachement welded on at the end of the blade and then for some reason, A portion was cut off with a torch..do you think I can just cut these "added" sections off square? This grader needs a carburetor, tank cleaning, some hydraulic hose replacing, and one tire to try to get it running again. Once I can get it to run, I would like to restore it so I can put it back to work. Thanks for your help....Joe.
Joe, I sent you a response on your inquiry on YT. The serial number confirms that it is a 1967 model. They used the D17 farm tractor engine so engine parts are readily available. That is a well equipped grader and has lots of potential. Mine is a 59 and except for the upgraded frame and your's with more features, it is essentially the same machine.
Can you make photos when you restore it? I'm glad when people restore older graders, there are so nice
Definitely a fun little machine! I use ours all the time.
be careful when u get it cranked I went to pick up one for my neighbor a couple months ago that he had just bought a few weeks before and test drove it . It was parked up next to guys shop on a slight up hill incline (about 20'away) he cranked it up and put it in reverse (remember incline ) it jumped in reverse idling tried to push clutch it was stuck to fly wheel no clutch so he tried to put it back in neutral the engine loped and it jumped directly into 1st gear shop 20' in front the right front tire when into walk door that was open left tire started pushing on wall it was uphill so the load on drive train he couldn't get out of gear he was stomping clutch through floor board I was on left side so I couldn't get to carb to cut it off lucky it had new rear tires on it and some of the lug nut's was loose so the tires slipped and then got traction and choked it down just before it whent through building . we had to jack it up to get it out of gear . when we unloaded off my lowboy he pulled engine out right there had pry bell housing apart from transmission GOOD times wish I had a video. p.s. when he started it I noticed water spitting out of bell housing guess that's what caused stuck clutch
Thanks for all the info. Thanks for all the info...I'm going to work on the grader this AM to see what needs to be done to get it to my shop. It's about 8 miles away at the next town. Bought this from the utilities office. I think I really got a good deal on it. Paid $1000. for it and while I was in a buying mood and the city was willing to sell I also bought a 1982 JD 410 backhoe/loader for $2500. The BH should run and operate but they were having problems with it heating up....I'll see what's going on with that. Joe.
With those kinds of deals, you'd better see what else they are in the mood to sell!!!!
Wow! I wish that I could find deals like that. If you can get it running half descent you can easily road it home as they can move along at 20 mph. I paid almost three times that much for mine, it was running but in rough shape and it didn't have all the options on it that yours has.
finally got my grader home yesterday Well, finally got my grader home yesterday. We went ahead and aired up the tires, chained up the blade and towed it home....My '27 T had no problem towing it. My engine # is 17-70828-M...the M is not very clear, but I believe it's an "M". Allis Chalmers D Serial # 6616. Need info on what carb number to order and maybe some direction on who to order it from. I don't have a core as the mechanic couldn't come up with it. I've seen prices on ebay from $147 up to $250-300. Maybe you can suggest a more reliable source. All help is really appreaciated. Also, really anxious to get it running.....thanks, Joe.
Joe, you could repost some of this on allischalmers.com in the construction equipment section. There are several suppliers for Allis parts on that site plus being a very heavily visited site I am sure that someone can steer you in the right direction for a used carb in your area. I think someone on the YT site posted some carb numbers for you. The MS carbs tended to be the most common for the G226 engine. Neat looking tow unit. I mean to comment before how good the JD backhoe looks as well.
I forgot to add that 6616 still makes it a 1967 model. Any D17 farm tractor carb will work.
Grader looks better already!!! Got my carb yesterday all pretty and looking good. Pushed the grader into one of my stalls where I can work on it out of the sun....been over 100 degrees down here. Have very old gas in the tank and I can see a lot of rust on the walls. Will need to clean it out, any suggestions? Going to try to start it Monday with a clean auxillary tank until I can get this one clean. I think my grader already looks better in at my shop than it did abandoned out in the city yard!!!
Good looking carb! If you want the gas tank as good as it can be, take it off and to a radiator shop and have it boiled out. If you want the big chunks of rust knocked out, drain it, take it off, put in a scoop of gravel and some kerosene and give it a good shake!
On old fuel tanks with severe rusting problems, enough to cause pin holes, I have used an epoxy marketed for restoration and repair of old motorcycle fuel tanks. Excellent results for small tanks at least.
Bad news!!! Bad news!!! Spent some time making new carb linkage to make my new carb work, mounted auxilary gas tank, put in a new ignition switch, and a battery....Hit the start button and nothing. The engine is stuck...frozen. Pulled the plugs and the two center clyinders were full of rust and water etc..Plugs were fouled up terrible. Anyway, blew out the water and poured in some Marvel oil and transmission fluid and will let it set a few days. Motor won't turn at all. Even if it does eventually turn, I was told by the PO that it used a lot of oil and smoked, so at this point I need to rebuild it find a good used engine. Anyone got one for sale??? I was really hoping it would run as is just to evaluate the grader before I reallly got into it, but it ain't happening.....Thanks, Joe.
Pull the valve cover and the head to get a better look at the condition of the valves, sleeves and the condition of the head gasket. Total rebuild kits including sleeves, pistons, rings, bearings and all gaskets are very reasonably priced from the suppliers on the allischamers.com site. That site also caters to the farming community and this is a farm tractor engine so you can get a lot of help there if you need to chase down another engine. They are not that expensive to rebuild so you would know exactly what you have rather than finding a used engine that may also have some problems.
Joe, I forgot to add that when you get your engine running there is a procedure to follow to get your carb linkage adjusted to get the best governor response. Post back when you get it running and if the governor response is off I can explain the procedure.
Thanks for the report with photos from your grader, it is interesting to see, what you made. I hope you find the right way to start the grader
All ok with your grader? have heard time ago not much, I hope you have find a way to start it...
Should be getting the replacement used engine tomorrow. Have a new clutch kit coming too....Had the flywheel resurfaced. Since the engine is already out, I may have the grader sandblasted and painted. Caterpiller yellow is about $45. per gallon. I have 4 gallons of "American" red oxide primer. Will see how it goes. Was worried about getting the front pulley off as it will have to replace the one on the engine I'm getting, but it came off easy....
thanks for your newest photos from this grader, nice to read what's going on
Hello, I just received the used D17 motor I bought and would like some help with some ID info... the motor # is: 17-53738-M I'm unsure about the "M" as I can't make it out clearly. I was told it was a 1st series. Anyone have some info as to the year? Another thing, most of it is painted orange, but I also see some yellow , like it was yellow and some time in it's life it got painted orange. Should it be yellow or orange according to the year model? Thanks, Joe.
I think that they used a yellow primer at one time. My 1959 D grader is orange but there are places that yellow shows through and that appears to be primer. If the engine came off a farm tractor the colour would normally be orange unless the tractor was an industrial model. I just read your question about the D17 engine on the farm section of allischalmers.com and I think that the boys there are pretty sharp and seem to be of the opinion that it is from a series III or IV based on the oil filter. Essentially the same engine and if it has been rebuilt at some time it may have had higher compression pistons installed other than the type indicated on the serial number.
Thanks Don....Hopefully it will be a newer engine than a series I. But if it runs good I'm O.K. with that too. I see two coats of orange with the yellow below. Maybe it has had a rebuild at some time..Thanks, Joe.
Good looking project you have there. Keep up the good work.
Getting ready to sandblast... Been locating need stuff to try to get the old grader running. So far, I got a rebuilt carb, used D17 engine both from Missouri, 4 like new heavy mud grip tires and wheels from Kentucky...these tires and wheels came off a '69 international loadstar truck and the wheels are identical to the AC wheels and will bolt on without any problems it seem. They are pretty close in size to the original tires. I had found some new tires locally for $178. each and were supposed to be grader tires, the were not, so I decided to go with these used, but in great shape tires. Price plus shipping came out to $125. each and they were mounted, holding air, almost new and included the wheels.... I have the grader all stripped down and ready to sandblast and paint hopefully Monday if the weather clears up. I decided to go with Caterpillar yellow. Paint instructions says to apply direct to bare metal without primer.....Any one have some experience with this paint??? After which, I will start the engine installation and replace the hoses. Bought a new correct clutch kit and had the flywheel cut down. Fingers crossed that all works out.....Joe.
Thanks for your newest pictures, interesting to see what you do time to time
Good deal on your tires. Was the wheel rim width the sameas your original rims? I had to get one new wheel for the front as the rim had been rusted out from calcium and they had a used rim that was 1/2" wider which was not a problem on the front. Three of the six wheels where loaded when I got the grader. I didn't bother to have any loaded when I put on new tires. My grader had similar mud and snow truck tires when I got it. They were badly miss matched with respect wear that I decided to get new tires since I would be roading it some on pavement. That same size and tread design was still available but after some deliberation I elected to go for a less aggressive tread as I expected to be dealing with some fractured rocks that might tear up that design.
Well, I'm back...Been away from the forum for a while but I've been doing a little work on the grader as time permits. I have too many irons in the fire and my health hasn't been the greatest. Seems like the VA had me in one of their clinics/offices 2-3 times a months. Things are better now and I've been able to spend more time at the shop. I finally got it blasted and painted. Installed the tires, but the boy that was helping me put the front ones backward. Will have to change that later. I pulled all the hoses off as they were all in very sad shape. I marked everything and took a lot of pictures. Hope I can get them all back in the correct places. I sent off 28 different hoses to be made for me and I should be getting them back next week. I had cleaned off my motor when I first got it and I started painting the engine today. Thought I would use a little orange...I'm getting ready to re-install it soon....I hope. Here's some picture updates. Thanks, Joe.
The front tires are supposed to be on that way on the front. Don't change them!! Nice job by the way
Wow, very interesting photos which you have shown here, thanks for the great report!!
Finally got my new hoses back....all 28 of them. Started installing them, and had to do some repair on the metal lines. With this done, I can finally get the engine back in and maybe get this old grader running. Joe.
Looks awesome!! Can't wait to see it all together!
Hello, Last time I posted was in 2015, time flies and life gets in the way too. Anyway, after 4 1/2 years, I finally got back into working on my grader. It has been laying dormant in my yard. Amazing that I was able to find most of my parts and get it together as far as I have. Only thing that hasn't showed up in my messy, neglected shop was the old wiring harness, which I wasn't going to use, but needed it for reference, and my instrument panel. Here are some pictures of what has been going on. I replaced the engine with the Gleaner engine that I bought and has been sitting on a cart. Had quite a few things that gave me a little problem, but most solved and I will be asking a couple of question in a bit. Thanks, Joe.
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Looking good. I have an Allis Chalmers M65 which was the last model before Fiat bought out Allis. We use it all the time.
With those kinds of deals, you'd better see what else they are in the mood to sell!!!!
Your updates are making me want to get ours out of the shed!