Hi, The AC compressor on my 2004 Excavator has locked up, and service manuel says I need to remove the counter weight to get at it-- and I'm getting ready to do that. The counterweight weighs about 7400 lbs, and is held on with 4 M36 bolts through the bottom. I have purchased a 40 inch breaker bar and a 55mm socket for the M36 bolt. I'm hoping to remove the 4 bolts by heating them then using about a 7 foot pipe on the breaker bar. I have an old 963 loader that should pickup the counter weight safely. Has anyone else done this? Any tips or advice would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks, Bob
I would offload the weight on the bolts before trying to break them free. It's also a safety check to make sure the weight can be held up by your loader before you free it. Use your preferred penetrating fluid soaking in for a day or two before you give it the heat. I generally work my way up when using force: use a regular wrench or breaker bar first, then add small cheater bar, then try impacting (air, hammer wrench, or just smacking the breaker bar with a BFH, etc.), larger cheater bar, soaking in penetrating fluid overnight (then trying from the beginning again), then finally heat. Usually don't get past the larger cheater bar phase with penetrating fluid because I think the impact phase breaks up the rust surfaces to allow the penetrating fluid to move in better (thus the penetrating fluid after impacting). To be honest, I do this because it allows for the least amount of tools to be drug out to the thing I'm working on in the hopes of breaking it free and I don't like putting heat on bolts. Heat can drastically change the temper/hardness of a bolt or surrounding area if not careful. If I heat structural bolts, pins, or other hardened wear surfaces, I generally replace with new.
Tup. Definitely have to pull counterweight. First time I pulled mine was for AC hose rub through. Next time it was for AC compressor. Next was for the alternator (if it wasn't for the darned spacers on the bolts, I could change it from the top). Then it was for starter motor (there is absolutely NO way to nut up the starter without either removing the engine or the counterweight). Then it was for the front crank seal. Definitely change or adjust the belts while in there. I had to use a multiplier and big ratchet to break them loose. Heat won't really help unless really heated to cherry. I used the other guys 8k Autocrane to lift it off the first time. I got a 12k Stellar now. Only problem with trackloader is precision, both in removal, holding it up, and alignment for assembly. Had to pull the counterweight in my 314dlcr for a darned speed sensor, and it would be stupid to have the same size thread lug holes as on the 314CLCR.
Thanks to both of you for the advice. -- I got lucky-- I thought I would just try my 3/4" Harbor Freight impact wrench, and all 4 bolts loosened. --so now I just have to carefully lift it off. heymccall: I think the lifting bolt holes are M30 with either 3.0mm or 3.5mm threads-- and I'll make my own chain brackets for the lifting bolts. Do you happen to know whether the lifting bolts are 3.0 or 3.5 pitch?
Comes back to M30...I ain't at work to measure mine until Monday.
Searched further. I paid obscene amount to get lugs for next day out of state for the very first failure, and they (dealer associate) sent me these at, like, $700ea. They're $850 today. So, definitely M30x3.5. I have the regular eyebolts for my 314DLCR. Haven't had to pull the counterweight on my 314ELCRs yet
Heymccall, thanks for all the info. I'll look into M30 3.5 eyebolts from Fastenall-- and if they don't have them, I'm going to make them. My time is definitely worth $700-1400 for a couple eyebolts!
I have always used a 1” impact to remove counterweight bolts. Plenty of times I’ve had to heat the bolts to bright yellow to get them to loosen up enough for removal with the impact. never used a track loader to lift, have used large excavator to crane counterweights on and off (a 336E/F will just barely lift a 349 counterweight, choked up close) be real careful it’s not rocket science to R&I counterweights but it’s not an amateur hour job either.
Even the plain eyebolt is obscene under Caterpillar
Mcmaster is cheaper
Hoist rings are significantly less, too.
Thanks again for all the info Bob
I found this very helpful. Thank you for sharing! I actually ordered these eye bolts they should work well and a lot less than through CAT. Funny story, I went to replace my fan belts and previous owner replaced exhaust header with aftermarket one which sticks out farther than OEM and won't allow the alternator to be backed off all the way to replace the belts. Should have been an easy job but now have to pop counterweight. I'm not a big fan of aftermarket anything hopefully these eye bolts won't come back to haunt me.
if it’s sold by McMaster Carr it will be quality.
I had to pull the counterweight on one to do the wire harness. Had to fork the counterweight off because no eyebolts.