Any tips or tricks to get this rusted in pin out. Was going to apply some heat, but don’t want to mushroom the ends. Thanks
Of course we know you dont have an oxygen lance or you would have burned it out already next best thing is to cut the middle with a abrasive wheel or carbide reciprocating saw then pound the other 2 pieces out if they are still stuck blow though with a cutting torch they will shrink when cooled and pound out
heat tends to loosen all sorts of rust. Give it a few cycles of heat and cool down, and on the second cool down let that heat wick in the penetrating oil. Set up some tooling to hold your driver on center and let you get two handed sledgehammer strokes on it.
The ears want to bend and bind when you hit them with a sledge, best is to use a hydraulic jack with a frame to push it out, but lots of methods will work, just depends on what you have available, and what you feel like.
An Air hammer works awesome for stuff like that! Its very satisfying watching it nudge free.
whatever you do, don’t hit the ends with a sledge or you will mushroom them. If you have a slightly smaller sized piece of metal, use some heat, penetrating oil and give it a few taps. The oil might take a day or two to do anything though.
Soak it, heat it, soak some more, beat it out however you can. Also clean out the zerk holes and see if you can pump grease in. We aren't given time to mess around at work; So it's hit with a 10lb sledge, get out the .498 air hammer when it doesn't move, torch red hot, repeat, grind down the mushroomed end and reinstall with a fresh coat of grease.
I had a frozen pin like that in one of my swing cylinders. Took it to the local machine shop and they heated it with an oxy propane torch until it was almost glowing red and smoking a whole lot. Focused the heat on just the pin as best as they could. Then they doused it with water and were able to pound it out with a piece of metal bar and a big sledge hammer. The dude said this is nothing out of the ordinary, does it all the time. He also said it's very important to cool it down with water before pounding because otherwise it'll totally deform inside and then you gotta problem. That sounds like basic common sense but I don't always demonstrate basic common sense so I'm happy he pointed that out.
Thanks for all the great ideas, don't know why it doesn't have a zerk on these pins. Could I weld a big nut on one end and after a few heat and cool cycles put a braker bar on it and try and spin it?
you could try it, but that's the last thing I'd try of all the options presented. Finca's guy's method was to save the pin. By the time you get this pin loose, it might seem pretty cheap to torch or cut the old one and buy a new one.
Looks bent to me. I would follow Jonas302's suggestion and cut on both sides of the cylinder rod eye with a zip wheel, get the cylinder retracted out of the way, then heat the pin stubs from both ends, let cool and drive toward the center. If the ends are swelled, cut them flush, grind flat, repeat the heat, cool, hammer and drift, or air hammer application. If you can drill or blow through the center with a torch, the heating and cooling is much more effective after that. YMMV
If you're just trying to reseal the cylinder don't remove it. Remove the pin on other end and take the cylinder apart. I always hook the rod end back up to the machine anyways to loosen the nut.
Yep, I just want to reseal the cylinder. Thanks for the tip.
Check out the cost of a new pin and then decide how you want to take that one out. Long time ago I used to do old dozer and excavator tracks with a press and all the time to set it up and pull pads. Then I check and a new master pin was about $12.00. I never pressed another old pin out again after that. It appears in the photo that the bosses are spread some. Maybe that is what is binding up that pin.
Is the pin seized in the rod eye or the pad mounts ?
If a better penetrating oil is needed, try a homemade one; 1/2 ATF and 1/2 acetone. I've seen that concoction work miracles, especially when heat is also used.
In the pad mounts.
I have heard that before but have never tried it.
I have done it this way several times and you don’t have to find the pin every time a rock hits that flimsy snap ring later.
I just did this same miserable job, heat didn't work. Finally cut it with a diamond wheel on an old skill saw. Miserable thing, zerk only greases the rod end, nothing to the ends in the pad. Joe H
If I wanted the pin out, I would use my 7" angle grinder with a new cut-off blade. Cut the pin on each side of the rod eye. Then a simple job of blowing the pin ends out of the pad with ox/acty torch. I don't think the pad has bushings in it. If it doesn't get 1/8" pipe tap and the appropriate drill bit. Thread the holes for zerks.
When I get some time I'll try a couple heat cycles. Maybe try a hydraulic jack to try and get it moving. Thanks everyone!
Looks bent to me too. Regardless of that I wouldnt mess with it just rebuild the cylinder with it on there. If you want to remove it, cut the pin on either side of rod and replace the pin. I would do everything with the ram off the machine and on the bench since your removing it to rebuild anyway
Weld a good sized nut to the pin end and put an impact gun on it, apply heat if needed. I second not messing with it if you just need to re seal the cylinder.
My cutting torch has that out in 15 minutes.
Getting a little slow in your old age Broco torch 14 minutes
Well, I did include the smoke break between pin ends
I was going to suggest cutting it, Drill through it to give a channel for a BIG oxy acetylene cutting tip to follow. After burning most of the pin stock out, let it cool. It'd drive out then. I didn't need to suggest, better minds than mine already said all that.
Yep when you gut them plus heat everything up that much it takes all the fight out of it
Remember what the three Stooges said. If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it needs replacing anyway. or When in doubt, blast!