Hi folks. I'm going thru my old Case 35C hoe, and need some advice. I've already done both stabilizers, but would like to do the dipper, both swing, and one boom cylinder while still on the machine (i.e. loosening the gland nut, knocking out the top pin, and pulling out the rod). I'm alone up here and getting a bit older, so I want to be safe and keep from getting killed (if possible ). As you can see from the below pic, my home made gland wrench has the dipper cylinder almost apart. I stopped because I just wanted to make sure it was safe to take it all the way out before I drive out the top pin and pull out the the rod. The hoe is locked in the upright position via the yoke, I released the pressure on all cylinders via the controls and loosening the lines, and I have a jackstand wedged between the bucket and boom for when I knock the pin out (although I imagine it might swing towards the machine a foot or so if the stand doesn't stay put). The dipper gland nut is a little tough to turn (getting easier as I go), but I assumed that was just rust & other crud (seal leaking badly for a long time). No way there is any residual pressure inside the cylinder like a jack-in-the-box, right? Also, can I do one of the boom cylinders the same way (i.e. will the other good cylinder hold the boom in place safely)?? Thx in advance for any advice.....
NOOOOO!!! Are you joking? And why don't you lay the boom down? how are you going to pull the rod and piston out the top of the cylinder? Please, lay the boom down and support the cylinder on some nice blocking so you don't scratch anything.
Ok Delmer, I ran outside and took a look; now I see the boom cylinder rod WONT clear and needs to come off (thx). Still looks to me like I can knock the top pin out of the dipper, loosen the gland nut, and pull out that rod though (or use slow hyd pressure to push it out). Am I missing something?
Do not use hyd pressure to push it out!!!!!! The rod is liable to land in my yard in Washington. I wouldn't do it the way you are but if you are dead set, you need to support the stick. Right now you have pressure on the top pin because the cylinder is limiting travel of the stick. When you drive the pin out the stick is going to drop. That's why there is pressure on the gland nut, the piston is pulling against it. As Delmer said, you are better off to lay the boom/stick down and blocking it in a safe position.
Loosen the nut on the steel hydraulic line after you lay the boom out straight. That will relieve any residual hydraulic pressure in the cylinder barrel.
OK guys, thx. I don't know WHY it looked safer to me to reseal locked in the upright position, but down it comes......
If you have both hydraulic lines loosened on the cylinder barrel, you will be able to push the rod and piston assembly back into the barrel a lot easier. Also don't allow the new piston packing to drag over the barrel threads when you insert the piston into the barrel. Push the piston all the way in and it will be a lot easier to start screwing the gland into the barrel threads.
OK guys, is THIS the safe position to remove dipper cylinder? I've got the rod end snap ring off, and the pin moves until it hits the rod end inside the dipper and stops. Must be mushroomed; guessing I need to grind it a little?
That looks good and sounds right with the pin being mushroomed. You can still rebuild it in place, but you will need to disconnect the lines to get the piston loose.
You can do the boom cylinder right there as well if you securely support the boom first. The two boom cylinders are teed together so one won't hold anything. You may need to take the pressure off the dipper cylinder before pulling the pin, I can't tell if it's sucked all the way in. In other words you may have some serious force from the dipper pushing the rod back into the dipper cylinder unless you block the boom up a couple inches. Just something to check.
I dunno. It looks a little scary to me. I don't see any support under the boom. If you are going to use that three legged stand it may sink a long way into the dirt or whatever that surface is. Not only that but it most likely won't settle straight down. If I were doing that cylinder I would curl the bucket all the way in, then fold the dipper completely under the boom and let the whole thing settle onto the ground. That way the dipper cylinder is fully extended. In the picture it looks like it will be a real hassle to get the rod out of the dipper after the pin is removed. But that is just my view of it and the way I would do it.
I did my 580D dipper cylinder (which is also a 35 backhoe unit as I recall) stretched out some but not all the way as you have to pass the eye of the cylinder beyond the end of the dipper. I used some heavy lumber to support the boom/dipper and propped up the barrel on a block of wood. Unhooked the hoses/lines to the barrel, turned out the gland and worked out the rod/piston. A second tractor loader is real handy for holding up the eye end of the rod while removing. A cherry picker would work fine too. A **SMALL** amount of air pressure helps break the suction of the piston but be careful you don't launch it across the yard. If I had it to do again, I'd dig a 3-4 ft deep hole to stick the dipper in just for easier working height.
OK, all cylinders except the swing done; I'll tackle them tomorrow. The fluid was ungodly water contaminated, as this hoe sat for years w leaking seals. I just bought new fluid today (3 x $43.99 @ O'reilleys), and it looks like its still water laden from inside the valve body/lines. I followed factory precautions by draining the tank and clearing all the extended lines/cylinders I hadn't rebuilt, but it looks like I will have to change all the fluid again. Yes, that's contaminated oil on the ground in the pic (what a miserable job purging THAT is). Anyone know how damaging it is to run with a little H20 in the system? I attached a pic of the old fluid; new is much cleaner but still has a tinge of white after going thru cylinder cycles (except swing of course). Also would appreciate any helpful hints on rebuilding the swing cylinders. I plan on pulling the rods out while they are still on the machine.....
All done (sans a few decals that are on the way), and ready to Rock & Roll.........
BTW, I thought the swing cylinders turned out to be the easiest ones on the machine.....
For $150.00 that the oil cost I would change it again and get the water out. It will pay off quick in pump life.
I can't really tell by your pics but if your cylinders have cast in place elbows on the rod ends you will someday be replacing the cylinder barrels. My dad had an old 680E hoe that eventually had all barrels replaced because the elbow cracks off. Nice looking machine BTW. Had never seen a hoe on back of Case track loader before.
Did that O.I; I have a LOT of spare dust retardant here now (LOL). Oil is the right color; just will run it for an hour or so and then change again w/filter. Anyone know where I can get a polymeric?
Agreed. There can even be water in there if oil is not milky. Was pushing snow out of drainage once with our 1150E and found water. Luckily was faced uphill so none got in engine. Trans was completely flooded. Took 5 changes including filters to get oil not to look milky. After running a hour or so pulled filter and had scum in it. One more change, seemed to be OK after that. Oil was cheap compared to $11,000 trans overhaul.
Hey Shimmy, how are things in NoDak? I'm an old Bismarck boy myself (long ago) . I've put a lot of work into the old beastie over the last 10 months. Nice to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Just replaced the original Cummins w a rebuilt 6T590 (double the HP is nice). It's an old County machine, hence the odd combo. Thx for the tip on the barrels; they all looked A/OK during rebuild though (crossing fingers). Here's a thread documenting the whole process... HeavyEquipmentForums
Both our machines came from KRIDER. The 680 was the worst POS ever conceived by Case. However, next machine, 780C, was as good as anybody could expect. Nothing, and I mean nothing other than fuel and oil changes for 6000 hrs. I'm from Central ND. Just doin my own thing now. Cat 95E, JD 1810E behind for the dirt moving and bought a new CX210C excavator last winter. Hoes have come light years from what I started on. Order of experience: 680E (tractor), 780C (tractor), 880, 1080B, 9030B, CX210B, CX210C. I probably put 1500 hrs on the 880, 3000 on 1080, 5000 on 9030, now have close to 1000 between the two CX's.