I've asked before. Still haven't found a source. I need a weldable cutting edge for a backhoe bucket. There are lots of sources for weld on shanks, teeth, etc. I used to buy them from Adirondack Road Materials. They no longer exist. Last one i used came from local steel supplier. It was square cut, took me TOO much time to cut a bevel! I ran into a service mechanic employed at my favorite local heavy equipment dealer, asked him. He enthusiastically told me of Essco having a pre made cutting edge with shanks already forged in. Told me to call the parts department. I did. The parts man known as the best in the area, turned to ask the mechanic if he had ever heard of such a thing. I have a different bucket with a Hensley edge. Essco & Hensley seem annoyed when I call, never heard of such a thing. Both companies have lots in their websites of this product used on 50 ton excavators. I'll settle for a beveled edge 1 X 6 X 25" AR steel. I know many of you are on the other end of the country, shipping would be expensive. I've about exhausted my options. Any suggestions? Willie
Google Ground Engagement Tools, should bring up assorted suppliers of edges teeth and so on. If get REALLY desperate I have five Case bolt on edges I have one I have already hacked on where can cut a section to ship to you. Are 1" x 10", can section off the 25+ inches for you if needed.
May be easier to get a loader bucket edge and cut 25" off. https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Bucket...t=&hvlocphy=9011578&hvtargid=pla-568564838587
Willie, I have used these guys for a lot of bucket edge, shanks, teeth, and replaceable bucket edges. They do sell the edges with shanks already installed.... https://www.genalco.com/
Found this special order listing at Tractor Supply that might interest you. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...m_mmc=feed-_-BingShopping-_-Product-_-1549632 Another thought on the Titan 60" x 1/2" x 4" blade. You could cut two 25" pieces and overlap them and weld them together. At $70 shipped it would be the least expensive way to go.
Don't think welding 2 thinner edges together would work very well. How would bevel them for one thing. Have you checked with local steel suppliers? If you can't find a beveled edge, it's a simple job to put a bevel on any steel cutting edge with a track cutting machine. Makes the edge a little harder too from the torch cutting. A steel supplier or fab shop should have track cutter and it should take less than half an hour (probably 15 minutes to set up and cut).
I hadn't thought of a track cutter. I wouldn't have thought it'd work at such an extreme angle. Last time i did a bucket, I used AR steel, burned in from the edge with an acetylene torch. This wasn't deep enough, it tended to blow out the side. I cleaned it up some with a gouging hardware on a plasma cutter, then hours with a 9" grinder.
I bevel 1" and thicker plate all the time with a track burner. The secret is to cut the edge square and while it is still hot go back and cut the bevel. If you can't find what you need let me know. I can probably come up with a piece of AR 400 to meet your needs.
Could you cut a 2x4 on an angle long ways to use as a throw away guide ,clamp it down and lay the torch on to get the angle. It may take a few tries to get the angle you want.
I've found the angle & keeping it consistent with an acetylene torch isn't such a big problem, but as the jet gets an inch from the torch tip it gets unpredictable which way it'll turn. Mostly it blows out taking a shortcut. This leaves a bunch of steel to remove. In either case there is plenty to gouge, and grind to make a flat wedge shape. I've bought a few in the past beveled to match the shape of the tooth shanks sold by many sources. My former source closed.
How far away is your local Cat, Komatsu or other major brand dealer? I buy aftermarket cutting edges for our Cat skid steer buckets from our Komatsu dealer cheap, teeth too.
For some reason skid steer edges are more expensive. The trick to doing nice bevels, and not losing the cut, is to preheat the plate before the cut. Thick sections will use an extra torch to preheat ahead of the cut. Cutting the edge square before beveling is the same idea but requires 2 cuts where just preheat only requires the bevel cut. A 45 deg. angle on 1" plate turns it into 1-1/2" plate. A 60 deg. angle makes it it equivalent of even thicker. They make an attachment for the tip so a track cutter can cut at more of an angle. It's the best way to cut a bevel. The cutting process does make the edge a little harder. https://www.dgisupply.com/product/DVB03830012/
You need a bigger torch tip. A number 4 or 5 Victor tip will do what you are needing. As has been said. Preheat and. Use a track. Torch.
This guy is one of those "I like to hear myself ramble on" You Tubers but he has a pretty good idea for a removable cutting edge that retains the teeth.
WHY NOT USE A 7" SIDE GRINDER USING CUTTING TORCH WILL OVER HEAT THE METAL AND MAKE SOFT, YES, YOU CAN TEMPER IT BACK, LOT FUSS OVER A 25" PIECE OF METAL I AGREE WITH LAST POST
Used a Case bolt on edge on my Allis bucket rebuild. So far no soft indications, cuts well while using and no deflection. Cut with gas axe and welded in place Hot 7018. Used cut offs for side corner edges. The flat Bar and plate stock is AR
Very nice! Welds didn't separate. I presume it's weldable. I had quite a pile of cutting edges from two different town road crews. I won't swear none were weldable, but those I tried popped loose. The weld didn't break, the steel adjacent to the weld just popped off. It's ROCKY here. I go through a lot of teeth. I once tried extending worn teeth, heating tooth, and chunks cut from grader edge. It held a while, but one by one they each broke away from the teeth. In each case, the weld was intact, attached to the tooth, but some of the cutting edge came with it.
There is some confusion. I'm talking about the steel plate the tooth shanks are welded to, a permanent part of the bucket. I'm not an expert, but I believe this stuff is manganese steel. It is still hard after welding, and "work hardens" on the surface. When I could buy it, I found the best practice was to cut a loader edge (90+" long) into three sections. Once fully welded to the bucket, I'd preheat heavily the floor of the bucket behind the edge, and weld up the break with 7018. Done a couple loader buckets that way, never had a crack.
Being that I do a lot of work on bridge beams I have gone to using 8018C3. I don't use a lot of 7018 anymore. Have never had a problem with cracking or delamination. Might be worth looking into.
My torch is obsolete! only 10 years old, I had a devil of a time finding flush cut tip, and the biggest tip I have. I don't remember the size, but this bevel involves a cut 3"? through. Instead of cutting a plane 30 degrees from flat, it tends to cut a curved surface. I'm not familiar with a track torch, I thought of it as a tool to cut straight lines perpendicular to plate. My supplier uses it to cut thick stuff.
Cutting a bevel can be tough. But as Welder Dave said earlier preheat will help much more than you can believe. That is why I try to make a square cut and then go back and put the bevel on it. That's just the way I do it. As He said a preheat torch ahead of the cut will accomplish the same thing. You have to be creative and work with ahat is available.
8018 I understand, C3 is new to me, what does it mean? I favor 7018 because I once read that Caterpillar recommends 7018 for its ductility. Shrinkage stresses from welding are relieved by its willingness to stretch cooled to solid, but not yet cold.
C3 has a tad bit of nickle in it. Since NYS has gone to using weathering steel if you splice a beam with 8018C3 and grind it smooth run over it with a flap wheel. In a years time you can not find the splice. It blends in very well.
I may end up giving it another try. Cutting edge was once a readily available commodity. I couldn't imagine it wasn't marketed in this country.
Does it have to be one inch thick?
You can try Bucket Suppy in NJ
The old one is bent, cracked, and tooth shanks look like a Danby beauty queen. (Danby is the next town). I'd be going to 1-1/2" if the tooth shanks fit it.
I'll call in the morning.
I've considered it a number of times, that & a skeleton bucket. I don't have a toothless bucket, but I think switching is time consuming. I believe each time I move the backhoe, I make more mess. I tried with some success cutting 275 gallon oil tanks in half to make flat dirt trays. I place a double row beside the ditch, placing the spoils in them. A short chain is welded to each corner, two more on bottom. With an extend a hoe, I can install 10 feet of conduit, and fill the ditch without moving the tractor. With the dirt trays, grass isn't much disturbed along the ditch. Raking is minimized. A 46" deep electrical ditch can have several conduits in the bottom, and be only 48" wide.
Could the bevel be accurately cut with a water jet ? Seems they can do amazing cuts with them.
Highly doubt manganese steel is used for a backhoe cutting edge. A dragline bucket sure. A cutting torch isn't going to soften a cutting edge unless you're somehow getting it super hot.
As I said, I don't know what they are made of. My steel supplier has a wall full of engineering degrees. He sold me AR 400? for my last bucket. He made no mention of being able to bevel it. Forever I have bought cutting edge made to weld in place. In loader buckets I weld them in. It sure doesn't make them soft. As they wear down some, I cut a straight line on them & add a piece of grouser stock. Grouser stock is high in manganese content. I guessed cutting edge might be. Other ground engaging, and crusher parts are specified as manganese. We did wire a facility a few years ago, they have a water jet. They cut 6" thick. I've never seen anything but a perpendicular cut. I hadn't known before, but they use garnet powder as the abrasive. A very expensive process, and they do not welcome small jobs for the locals.
Most fab shops will have a track cutter if you could get the plate but ask your supplier if they have one first. The steel suppliers here have a variety of shears, oxy/fuel and plasma cutting tables, plate rolls, press brakes, etc.
How did you make out with edge?
No success! No one has anything to offer. Local steel dealer has square edge AR 400 or Hardox 450. I'd have to bevel it. I have a different bucket last rebuilt in 1994. It has a Hensley edge forged with tooth shanks. I called the shop where it was rebuilt. The person was annoyed. "How do you know we worked on it?" Your company name date & phone number are written in weld on it. "That doesn't prove we did it!" "OK, I'm not complaining, I'm only trying to source cutting edge." I called Hensley. They were equally defensive. Weeks later they quoted over $900. for a cutting edge. I'm near buying a new bucket.
That sounds less aggravating
Hard to believe you don't have some village idiot like me near you that can whip up something like this.