Ok, here goes Got a hydraulic plow for my 2012 John Deere 318D. When I bought the machine I didn’t have any attachment to try the aux hydraulics. Anyway the slide that is momentary and goes up and down on the right control is doing nothing. Tests give out errors of it not getting power. Up or down does not work, and does not move plow left or right. Voltage wise in diagnostics shows nothing happening. I took the handle apart and it’s not even able to be tested. How can I test things when in order to run the machine or even put power to things the cab needs to be down. I’m pretty good mechanically. But I do not have a wiring diagram to see anything nor can I test power when the cab is 6 ft in the air. My next step is to ohm out the two solenoids for male and female aux. I would love some assistance here. Any manuals I have do not show any wiring schematics at all. Honestly the guy that owned this machine was a farmer and I had to replace the two connections for the aux hydraulics prior to hooking up plow. How can I have no power going to either solenoid? Man the wiring is a b*tch on these machines. Please help! Thank you
Right hand trigger does get power and works on display
First a serial number. "EH" machine or manual sticks? When you say voltage in the monitor, is that in the service menu for the right joystick, roller 1 and 2 voltage or is it a screen that says aux extend/retract with mA (difference between EH and non-EH)? If in service mode what active/stored codes are listed (please post them)? Clear the codes then work the roller. Any codes return? We block machines up in the air and with the cab raised there is a tool called the "start box" that gets plugged into the machine to enable powering up/starting for diagnostic purposes. A note: never start a skid steer/CTL with the cab up and the wheels/tracks on the ground.
MG2361. After clearing the code it comes right back after toggling the switch. The right trigger is and does go on and off. As for the codes I will go out and get the codes. There is two codes. One is what you mentioned. Machine is manual stick and feet operate boom. Left/right stick are only used to go reverse and forward. And the only two items on the right stick are the right trigger and the proportional up down momentary switch. I’ll get those two code numbers. By the looks of it, the wiring on these is a nightmare. All work has to be performed while cab is up and I don’t have one of those remote boxes to start and stop the machine. All input is appreciated. I don’t think both solenoids can be bad, that would normally not happen. I don’t think signal and power are happening. Thanks for input
I'll wait on the codes and serial number.
ok I did some work testing the issues today Both codes are as follows 523941.06 — Aux Hyd Retract Output Out of Range High 523935.05 — Aux Hyd Extend Output Out of Range Low Here is what I’ve done Both codes point to open circuit to both male and female solenoids for the aux hydraulics I took the handle apart, I ohm the wiring to the connector that comes off the right joystick. All is good. I checked voltage to the connector then checked voltage to the proportional/momentary switch it is operating within spec I believe. If pressed up and down voltage increases and decreases the other. I am getting 5 volts from the p20 hot wire at connector also which I forgot to mention and that goes from connector to ljoystick connector. Now since the two codes point to open circuits I proceeded to look at the wiring going to the solenoids on the hydraulic control valve. I am not able to get power but I’m not sure if if the computer will allow it to get power to the solenoids since the cab is raised and power key is on and hydraulics are supposed to be active without key on because I do have voltage when machine is off and key is on. What I’m not sure about is if it will power the solenoids at this point or is that where my problems lie. Regardless I ran out of time today. But I’m suspicious if it’s the computer giving an issue or am I lacking with a bad dead short or bad ground. This is where I’m at. I’ve done plenty of work on equipment and good with a meter but any ideas are very much appreciated at this point. What are the chances that both hot wires going to solenoids are bad? Or is it grounds. Or is it the computer, which would really hurt.
523941.06 — Aux Hyd Retract Output Out of Range High......This code indicates excessive current which could be a short to ground, shorted solenoid or a short to voltage on the solenoid return wire. So not only check the continuity of the green wires but also the return wires. And make sure they are not shorted to ground. 523935.05 — Aux Hyd Extend Output Out of Range Low... is for low or no current which would indicate an open. I find it odd that both circuits are throwing codes. First check that the solenoids are wired correctly. The Y23 solenoid (closest to the center of the control valve and for the male quick coupler) should have an H34 green wire. The other solenoid Y24 (towards the outside of control valve, for female coupler) should have a green wire marked with H35. If above is OK, then check the resistance of the solenoids. They should be 5.0 - 9.6 ohms. You cannot check voltage on this circuit do to the fact that the solenoids are Pulse Width activated, so there is no specification for this. Do you have a service manual? I would perform a calibration if all the above checks out.
523941.05 was the code, sorry for the mistake.
It will not allow me to do a calibration at all. It fails and gives an errror
I also find it strange that both solenoids aren’t working. Solenoids are ok I ohm’d them both. But not at the solenoid, I ohm’d the connection which I think is correct. I will also check that they are on the right solenoid. Wiring is very tight and hard to get at down in there. Ya my next step is to do continuity tests between wires. I just can’t see both being bad wiring as both run separate wires. The emu box is inside the cab with the display....I imagine that is where I’ll go second after checking the x1 and x2 cab harnesses. Checking continuity to the solenoids on the wires isn’t going to be easy either. Something is fishy here, both solenoids and neither one work? Strange because usually ya don’t get two things wrong like this situation. Both codes say “Open circuit to auxiliary port (male) (and also same for female) solenoid (y23 y24) causing low or no current, or return current is low compared to expected value. How can both be wrong? If solenoids connectors were on the wrong solenoids it would just operate the aux backwards. So that to me can’t be the issue. I’m stumped. And I don’t get stumped often. What’s tricking me is both solenoids are not charging. It’s strange.
I would agree. I suggested checking based on the original codes you posted. After looking at the schematic I suggest disconnecting the 12 pin connector at the EMU (X43) and with the solenoids plugged in check your resistance between terminals G and B, then check between terminals H and B. They should be approximately what you measured at the solenoid. Also perform this measurement while wiggling the wiring harness. You could have an issue with both because both solenoids share the same return wire so I suspect an issue with the return wiring.
What do you mean by return wiring, what ones would they be? I’m not understanding that lingo “return”. Anyway, there’s the power going to the right joystick, and the wiring that sends signal back to emu then from emu to the solenoids which tells them to open and close. Strange because last night I did check continuity from cab harness x2, x1 to the emu and all 3 wires that go to the solenoids two green one black (split at solenoids) from that big round connector had continuity. If it wasn’t snowing like a bitch, My next step was doing from the big round harness and check the 3 wires to the solenoid down to them for continuity. This is stumping me, I have 5 volts going the proportional switch but why doesn’t the emu allow me to calibrate it. I hope this isn’t the computer stopping the solenoids from opening cause it’s no good. Then the aux Hydraulics won’t be getting fixed.
One other note, the longer the wiring to the solenoids does that not affect resistance readings? Because if I want to read resistance at the plug while plugged into all the way down to the two solenoids, that will change the readings correct? Or are we just checking continuity? Appreciate all the pointers. This one has me stumped. But for both solenoids to not work, and not able to calibrate I think it’s a bad ground wire for the solenoids but that is a guess at this point
The green wires are the supply to the solenoids and the black wires are the return to the EMU. When you calibrate the solenoids have to be working for the calibration to complete. When you key on the EMU sends out a diagnostic to the solenoid circuit and if it detects a problem it will not send the voltage to the solenoids, regardless of your roller position. It will not stop the voltage to the roller on your handle. Once the issue is repaired the EMU should then send the necessary voltage to the solenoids. Please perform the resistance check I mentioned in post #11. Make sure everything is plugged in except the EMU connector I mentioned. Post results.
Will be checking that today (post#11). Yes power is directed thru emu to solenoids. I’m also going to do continuity tests from the x1 plug down to x43 also. I’m going to find short on that return wire. Has to be that, cause both solenoids get no signal
K. If it’s the two greens and one black at the emu x43 plug, I checked them and both are open lines. So to me it’s either both greens are open or the return (black is open. I’ll update later, pulling machine outside now. In the cold. Fun wow. Lol
Got it! Wiring to the solenoids (all 3 2 greens and the return) were open and I found it by poking into the wires from just before the foot pedal to the front connector two both aux solenoids. Replaced 3 wires no codes and aux works now I finally got the blade on, then blew a hydraulic line, trip to town New Year’s Eve. Fixed the hydraulics, added fluid. BUT Something weird happened and when I cycled the proportional switch it would also lift the boom a bit, but I’m curious maybe cause of air in the system? It didn’t do it before I blew the line but this is a new machine to me. But this left turning the blade it then lift the boom kinda concerns me. I will see if it does it again or it was just air in system. I know that can play funny things and I replaced 4 hoses. And replace a lot of oil too
Glad to hear you found your wiring issue . Could be. Air can play funny tricks on you. After the air is worked out see if it continues.
10-4. Ya I think it was an air issue. I’ll post if it is still doing it.
Update: Thank you for your help mg2361. Went out and did some more work on the plow for the machine. Works like it should now. And when hitting switch left to right and right to left, it’s no longer lifting the boom so I think it was air. Amazing what air in hydraulics can do. Thanks