I am getting an error code on my T250 that shuts the aux hyd down. The error code is "Front auxiliaries not calibrated". When running my brushcat, the aux hyd flow will shut off and then come back on by itself. Sometimes it will shut off and immobilize the loader arm hyd as well. Turn the aux. hyd off and it resets itself, allowing the aux to function again. A few times it shut the aux hyd down completely and disconnecting and re-attaching the aux lines to the machine reset the malfunction and the brush cat would operate again. This error code also comes on when not running an attachment.:beatsme
off the top of my head it sounds like you may have an aux coil going bad, broken wire, or bad connection thats kinda one of those strange codes that pop up when theres a wiring issue. there is no "aux calibration" :drinkup
Thanks crewchief888. The keypad listed 3 probable causes one being a damaged mainframe harness, which is my biggest worry. I called my Bobcat mechanic and told him what the code was and he wasn't familiar with that code either. The code does read "Front auxiliaries not calibrated". I am going to take the machine to the shop to have this tracked down and now I have a seal leaking on the right track tensioner.:Banghead If times were good, this machine would have already been traded in, oh well.:beatsme
if the machine has an old version of software, a simple software upgrade may fix the problem. :drinkup
It's a 2004 model. I talked with my mechanic today and we are both thinking it may be in the joystick/levers. It's going in tomorrow or Thursday to get checked.
Today the same warning came up and the code is 12-23. Any insight on this code and possible problem?
Google can be quite a tool sometimes. Found this - http://cdn-4.psndealer.com/e2/dealersite/images/bigvalleytractor/AllServiceCodes.pdf 12-23 is "Front Auxiliary PWM Switch Not In Neutral"
i'd guess that you have a RH handle assy that needs to be replaced. :drinkup
Thanks crewchief.:thumbsup The possible items I could think of would be the RH controller or the left control panel. I'll check on what a controller runs.
i'd say between the 2, the rh handle assy is the problem. i change a lot of them..... i think, the last time i checked, a rh handle assy is under $150, i can usually have them swapped out in 30 minutes or so with a non acs machine :drinkup
My T250 (2004 model) is the old school style, foot/hand controls. I have been searching the 'net trying to find a price on the rh handle but came up with nothing. I was worried with previous experience of Bobcat pricing that this was going to be expensive. I'll call the dealer monday and see what the price is. Are there any online parts stores that sell it? Thanks again crewchief.:thumbsup
no place that i know of besides a bobcat dealer will have it. before you start to swap it out, let me know, i have a couple tricks up my sleeve. :naughty :drinkup
Will do and appreciate the help. Got a busy week lined up that doesn't involve the 250 so when I get it, I'll be leaning on ya'.
So purchased a right hand control from BC dealer today for $220.. What are the tricks to replacing it? It looks fairly straight forward but this is a Bobcat so I know there will be :cussing involved.
raise boom and install boom support raise cab locate the harness where it comes out of the rh lever tube under the cab disconnect the handle harness from the mainframe harness cut the harness where it exits the tube, leaving enough of the wire exposed from the connector so you can see the wire colors peel down, or "unroll" the rubber grip from the handle assy turn the handle assy 90* to release it from the lock tabs pull the handle & harness out the top there may be some dirt, rust and debris inside the handle tube, blow it out with compressed air slide the harness/handle down into the tube, sometimes it takes more than one try to get it all the way through, a little wd40, or wire lube helps, and snap the handle into place. remove the lock tab from the harness connector you cut off. remove ONE (cut) wire at a time from the connector, and install the wire from the new harness in it's place. i use a std paper clip to release the internal lock tab from the connector straighten the paperclip and push it down into the OPEN end of the connector until you hear a click, then pull the wire out the BACK of the connector pay attention to the color codes on the wiring, it does make a difference what wire goes in what hole in the connector, off the top of my head you should have white white/ red tracer white/ black tracer dark green light green yellow blue once finished swapping wires, reinstall the lock, and reconnect the harness. only the first 1000 or so are the hard ones, they get a lot easier after that :drinkup
When slipping new harness into control lever tube, stick an air nozzle in tube and blow through tube as you're slipping wires in, the air will carry harness right out the bottom of the tube.
I normally attach a wire to the old harness before I pull it out and then use the wire to pull the new harness threw. I do the same thing when changing hose that run threw the boom arms on large frame models.
Thanks Crewchief, Willie and Bobcatdan!:drinkup I followed the detailed directions and with a second set of hands, we had it out and the new one installed in 30-40 mins this morning while it was still cool and shady. I took a piece of masonry string and taped it to the old one to use to pull the new one back in. Didn't stay attached, so I taped the string to the new one and blew the string through the handle. So I ended up using everyone's advice in some fashion. It really wasn't as bad as I thought and the wires came out of the connector rather easily. Ran the machine for an hour or so this morning and no code. Tomorrow it will be ran hard covering up primary and secondary electrical services at the chicken shack. Thanks again and until the next time she lays down...
Good afternoon fellas! My first reply to post. Would it be safe to say this repair will also work on a 2001 T-200 with the intermittent code 12-23 and auxiliary trouble? I have learned so much from this sight I had to finally join. Thanks
Welcome to the Forums sig!:drinkup So far the RH controller has eliminated the 12-23 and the intermittent engine shut-off on my T250, I have not ran a hyd attachment on it since the fix. The machine has been ran 4-5 hours since changing it out. I don't know if it's the same fix for a T200 but the experts who posted up thread will know.
Thanks CM1995. Glad to be a member now. I have been throwing the 12-23 code for two years now. At first it was not a neusance. Now I cannot use my grapple as it throws the code then my jaws shut tight with a occasional load on engin. I'll sit tight and wait to hear from the pros.
if you are getting the same code, then yes, replacing the handle assy should fix the problem. :drinkup
Good morning Crewchief888, Thank you for the quick reply. I will head in and pick one up on Monday morning. I woke up this morning to 2 inches of fluff on the ground so gotta have auxiliary working and ready.
Good Evening Crewchief, Well..... I put in a new switch this morning. Went very smooth with your directions, until I dropped the wire lock down into the abyss. I recovered it with my mini shop-vac after 20 minutes of searching. I used mild 18 gauge wire to pull wires through the tube as I was not near a air compressor. Ran machine for thirty minutes stacking logs with grapple and no codes. Will get more testing when we have freeze up. Thank you very much for the guidance. Sig:drinkup
no problem, glad to be of service, now where do i send the bill? it's only the 1st 1000 that are hard, they get easier every time :lmao
You could drop a ship anchor in the belly of a Bobcat and somehow it would still manage to find a sufficient abyss down in there.
:lmao i've gotten used to pulling the side covers off just about anytime i'm under the cab working. saves me the aggravation later when i drop something. :beatsme :drinkup
I believe the serpent from the trash compactor scene in Star Wars is living in the belly pan of my T250 , if something goes down there - it stays there.
I'm glad I'm not alone in this category. It was not a pretty scene virbaly speaking.:Banghead Before the shop-vac idea came to me I had run back to town, 11 miles and they did not have any of those darn $4 parts in stock. So I was about to jimmy rig it with duct tape when a light bulb came on to try the shop vac.
Repairing a Bobcat and curse words go together like beer and peanuts... Glad you got it fixed. Mine has ran like a top since I changed it out. HEF to the rescue once again.:notworthy ON EDIT - I included the code # in the thread title in case other members are having the same issue
Fortunately, I have a 1 1/2" fire hose when I encounter one of those.
YOu guys just made my life so much easier. thanks a bunch!!
Great information! Had the same code on my G873. Called the dealer and the part was 4-5 days out with me in the middle of a job. the Decided that the thumb controller must be just some form of rheostat and it might just need cleaning.