Hey everyone new to the Forum, but was hoping to get some good advice on how to get a new to me Bobcat X231 excavator with the v1902 Kubota engine in it running again. I purchased this equipment knowing it had been sitting for around 2 years since the last time it had ran. To start off I changed the battery, cleaned electrical contacts, drained the fuel and replaced it and turned the key... The engine would turn over nice and the only thing I could get from it was white smoke from the exhaust and a no start condition. I then realized I needed to change the fuel filter which was full of rusty old fuel and did that accordingly, still getting the same white smoke from the exhaust when starting but no start up. I sprayed a small amount of WD40 (I know I shouldn't do this, but I was curious) on the air filter and turned the key.. the engine roared to life at a high rpm even with the throttle in the idle position and soon after quit, turning the key after that produced a short start and stall similar as to if it basically just didn't have any WD40 left to run on. I didn't want to spray anymore WD40 because clearly there was another problem preventing it from starting and just wondering what my next step should be? Turning the key now only produces the engine turning over at a good rate but no white smoke from exhaust like before. Thanks again
You want to look at the fuel stop solenoid . There will be red and black wires. One will be solenoid pull and other solenoid hold .Test the wires with a volt meter or test light to see if you are getting power to the wires. You can also unbolt it from the engine ,ground body with jumper to ground .Turn key to on position .Solenoid plunger should suck in.You can try to start with it out .But you have install back in the bore hole to shut it off .Because the solenoid pushes the fuel rack close to stop engine.
Okay that would make more sense, I noticed that the plunger you are talking about someone had previously used a coat hanger wire on the lever to have the lever pulled back in the run position at all times, assuming at some point the solenoid had broken. This would probably explain why when I turned the key to the off position when it started on WD40 for a short moment it did not shut off. Is the way the previous owner "rigged" this okay to trouble shoot the engine? Almost looks like a makeshift anti-theft
Would the original white smoke from the exhaust to not having any after it starting for a short short period be a tell tale sign of anything?
I just had to wire a shutoff solenoid on a V2203 Kubota but I don't know if you have the same solenoid. The following is how mine hooked up; 1. Red wire is hot from battery 2. White wire is hot from ignition 3. Black is ground Keep in mind that there are hundreds of different solenoids for a lot of different voltages and functions. It would be best to get your engine serial number and get the wire schematic for that engine. You will find the serial number on the flat area to the outside of where the injector pump bolts into the block.
Before it will start, you have to MAKE SURE you have GOOD CLEAN fuel UP TO the injection pump INLET. Simply loosen the banjo bolt & turn the key to start it & look for fuel squirting out.. NO AIR. Next, make sure the shut off solenoid is working or just take it off, completely.. just to diagnose the system. Next, loosen the lines up AT THE INJECTORS & spin the engine.. got any fuel squirting out?? IF NOT.. the injection pump aint pump'n.. You have fuel UP TO IT, right? and nothing coming out?? There ya go..
I truly appreciate the responses, Had a chance to get back out to the excavator today todo some work on it and this is what I came up with.. 1) Made completely sure it had 100% clean diesel in the tank and through the lines with a new fuel filter/water separator installed and new Diesel. 2) Checked all fuel lines leading to injection pump and ensured clean Diesel was able to get to the injection pump unrestricted, making sure no debris were in any of the lines.(New primer bulb installed as well to test fuel flow up to it) 3) Removed Injection lines leading to injectors from injection pump. 4) Laid a shop towel over the Injection pump outlets and turned engine over (3-4 seconds) and came back to see Diesel was coming out of only the right 3 outlets and not the the first one which I would think would disable the engine from firing? I attached a few pictures of what I saw when testing these items and to me I believe the Diesel not coming out of the first outlet would be the problem.. which as stated above would be a bad injection pump I assume. Is there any way to clean the 1st outlet or any tricks that might get fuel coming out again? Or does it need to be rebuilt or replaced regardless? Thanks again! Any ideas on what todo with this problem or tips/tricks would greatly be appreciated
In your case, the pump needs to come off.. You probably have a broken plunger return spring. Once you get it off, you'll be able to tell. Sorry for the bad news.. Its not hard to remove.. probably take you 30 minutes.?? Just remember to TAKE OUT/unscrew THE ELECTRIC SOLENOID FIRST.. EVERYTHING is metric so get your metric sockets handy. & regardless of how close you think it is>> ya gotta take off the intake manifold. You CAN reuse the gasket. Let me know if you need further instructions.
Yes that is correct. I was doing from memory without the book in front of me .But some Kubotas only have two wire and solenoid needs to be ground .Just had one today on v1505 in Avanat wheel loader that was messed up.
I had 1 like that to TK.. Removed the sol.. hooked a hot wire up & a ground wire up & it wouldn't work..***?? I laid it down to grab a wrench & it went "CLICK".. {the sol. body touched the block} Ya learn something new all the time.. BUT WHY make something like that?? a hot is for power & a ground is to complete the circuit.. but not on that baby.. it takes a hot & 2 grounds.??
Thanks again, would be clueless otherwise.. Ill try to get the pump off tomorrow when I get a chance When you say electric solenoid you are talking about the electric shutoff solenoid correct? Should it be pushed to the off position or on position before taking pump out?
Yes, the ELECTRIC FUEL SHUT OFF solenoid.. {WACK, right in the nuts,lol} The engine block has a small notch cut out of it, underneath the pump.. the control rack pin on the pump hasta go up thru that cut out notch.. NORMALLY you have to pull the manual stop just alittle to get in the right position.. IF you wanna know "WHERE" the manual stop is..{WACK} post more pictures.
Okay will do tomorrow, manual stop should be the lever in the bottom right of the first picture with the electric solenoid hooked to it. Disconnect the solenoid and manually push the lever towards the stop position during removal Im assuming?
Seeing you don't have a book & are flyin by the seat of your pants.. Take off the side cover on the engine, right below the pump. That'll give you access to the pump & control rack.. you might have to unhook a small spring.?? I cant see the sh-off sol. in any of the pictures.. some are internal & some are external.. THATS WHY I said, TAKE MORE PICTURES.. {WACK}
Well I was able to get the injection pump off no problem whatsoever, and I know I apologize for not being prepared with a service manual.. should be here sometime next week (find one on Ebay for a good deal). With that being said I could not see anything wrong at least to my eyes with what could be going on with the injection pump, and did not want to open up any ports on it without consulting first as I did not want to mess anything up thats not already messed up, I included a bunch of pictures to hopefully let you see what I am looking at! Plate on the engine said - V1902 110544 Thanks again
Forgot to add, I was able to push up on all 4 plungers below the injection pump with similar resistance between each one.. sorry for being a total noob in this entire process
Your doing a great job.. but its time to get professional help.. you need specialized equipment to test the pieces. I have the test equipment & help these guys out.. If you want to contact me to get the pump & injectors done/tested, just add @ aol dot com after my screen name in your home mail server. OR click on my name on the left & click> start a conversation.
Make sure you put the same thickness gasket back as was on there the gasket thickness is what sets the timing
Dave is kinda right.. They aren't really gaskets, they're SHIMS & they do set the timing.. No NEED to get new ones, they're made from stamped steel.. just put back what was/is there w/ some "goo" if you want.. Personally I've never felt the need for it & in 30 years have never had a leak.. Some manuals tell you to add a LIGHT coat of sealer to the base of the pump.. while others don't.. they just tell you to "drop it in"..
BTW> DO NOT scrape that nameplate !!!!
Well I have a great update today... Had the injection pump out and brought it home, which got me thinking and looking at it.. Realized the stop start rod thats located near the top of the pump that shuts off the fuel flow was pretty frozen even when it was installed the solenoid was able to move back and forth so I put some WD40 on the pump itself and got it moving again... I figured why not try to put it back in again and see what happens before a rebuild and to my surprise IT STARTED and idled great and whats even better is this excavator drove right out of the grave its been sitting in for years with trees growing through it!! All hydraulics even worked.. even better! Drove it to an open part of land and shut it off after a minute or two not wanting to mess anything up without doing a FULL fluid change on just about absolutely everything.. Im sure Im not out of the woods yet and I can almost ensure I missed a hydraulic/oil leak or one is soon to come so just wait for the questions as I start tearing into it.. With that being said I wanted to thank everyone who has helped and especially pumpguy for all the help you have taken time to give me.. I truly appreciate it! This should be fun
Good deal.. The "control rack" MUST slide free.. They'll "usually" start once the rack is free..