evening fellas i found a hairline crack in the boom of my 580e. what would it take to fix this? i've found a used boom for $650. im not sure what to do at this point.:beatsme
I believe that is quite repairable. There are some welders here, the recent thread on the Ford 555 brought them out. It's possible that the casting goes up into the tubing a bit. The crack could be veed easily with a torch or ground out. I use dry 7018 and a DC stick welder on reverse polarity. If you don't have a lot of experience welding, I would get a welder to come out and do it for you. Phil
Yep very fixable..... grind her out good "V" pre heat, root pass 6011 then top fill multi pass with 7018 cool slow. fish plate if feel needed.
thanks guys im glad to hear its repairable. i'm gona see if i can get someone to weld this for me. any ideas of what a welder would charge for something like this?
Boy that simple repair i would think not much at all.
figure under $400 for a guy that does this type of work for a living. Pre heat and a wide fillet with multible passes will take 3~4 hours, again let it cool slow useing a torch to keep some heat in the area.
it's a pretty easy fix like everyone has said. just don't let anyone that thinks they know how to weld do it. get a really good welder to do it.
After you perform the repair as recommended by the previous posts take it one step further and add a fish plate overtop of the welded area. Use a 3/8" thick plate 8" x 8" and place it on a diagonal. Never hurts to add a little insurance. Scott www.welders360.com http://www.welders360.com/
i appreciate all the input guys. so far i've exhausted all my friends and family an no one knows any "good" welders. i guess my next step is going to the phone book. could any of you guys give me some pointers on what type of questions to ask a welder to find if he is any good? i have been interested in learning to weld for some time now. i could probably spend near $1000 usd to get started. is it even close to reasonable to think i may be able to do this myself??? thanks for the link Scott, im gona check that site out.
You might check with a local vo-tech school if they have a welding program. Some of the students that are further along in the program might tackle this project-might be a place where you could learn also. I attended one of these schools many years ago and it has served me well. Good luck, Maytag
Wow there's no one around you that does any fabricating/selling steel welding supplies?
where in PA are you located? i know a few good guys in the Philly area
Been there,Done that.. Air arc out the crack,grind,weld.Pre heat not needed the air gouging will put enough heat into that to weld it up.Very fixable,been welding 25yrs trust me thats all you need. 2hrs max. $150-$200 is about the price range.
there are a few. i just dont know any welders personally or have anyone i know that will vouch for one. i dont know anything about welding and wouldn't know what to ask a prospective welder about his credentials. :beatsme i'd hate to pay some guy to do a poor job with me none the wiser.
If the guy don,t have at least a 300Amp engine drive and own a air arc torch.Chances are he hasn,t fixed much heavy equipment before.
Have you stopped in your local welding supply shop and asked them who they would recommend? If you have more than one welding supply in town, stop at each one and see if the same names come up.
Wish you were close.I know a dang good one.First time we used him.He drove up in a beat up old truck got out and the first thing he unloaded was his chair and fan.Everybody looked at each other said we are in trouble now.We used him for every job since because when he said it's done it was.Never had a weld to break every thing fit right.I remember one guy asked him can you weld this where it will hold? Old man said yep and give you a life time guarantee too.He was slow but never redone his jobs.
I think the admswelding chap has got it right on. I've welded some stress cracks on earth movers and dozers, but never had the luxury of an air-arc. I like the old Lincoln 200 and 300 amp welders, they have a real nice arc. Personally I don't think I'd fish plate it unless I had to. It's probably the most important weld on your E, just get a pro to do it. For the beginner, a mig welder is nice, much easier to learn with than a stick, and good for bodywork. For under $1k maybe one of the 220V ones, that you can carry, also buy your own tank with mig gas. Get a name brand, the blue or red one, I think there is one other that's good also. Be sure to ask the guys on 'Shop Floor Talk' forum, in the welding section. Phil
Just Curious, What is that tack welded along the bottom side of the boom?
thanks for all the advice guys :drinkup it covers 2 hoses for the extendahoe, not sure if it does anything else. it looks like it used to have a bolt on guard. i never really noticed it till you pointed it out. i live just north of Gettysburg. i think its takes a little over 2.5hrs to make the drive into Philly from here, but its been years since i drove there so i could be off. thanks!
hey guys i finally found someone who was pretty highly recommended to weld up that crack. he ground out most of the crack then said the weld might look a little sloppy but that is only because of the type of rod he used and that he was using a 110 generator, but the weld would be good and strong anyhow. here are some pictures, he charged $100. what do you guys think? should i call this guy for any future work? :usa
Keep eye on that elbow and where it turns into the vert weld and up i see pin holes not good,penetration don't look as good as i'd like. did he V it out wide and deep? what rod 7018?
he ground about 3/8" in and about 1" wide. more of a U shape than a V. i think he said 7013, but i could be wrong. he said it was a softer rod because a harder metal would just crack again under stress.
ADMSWELDING- thats a said excuse for someone who can do a repair. Someone can have the best equipment available and not know what they are doing and screw up a simple job.
I'm sure you'll be fine if he ground it out did multi-pass's and let it cool SLOW it should hold up,but i have to say my welds look better and i AM NOT a professional welder,just hands on over the years.
Same here. I know beauty is only skin deep, but you dont want to put a sack over her head to kiss her.
Yea,,well hopefully some of the guy's that do this for a living or are certified will chime in...
If I am understanding you right , he used a 110 generator to power a small welder. If this is the case he probably can not even light 7018. so then he used 6013 , found out he could not weld vertical up at the corner, so then finished with some downbeads. If this is what happened invest in some adult education classes for welding . you could probably do as well, if not much better with little practice No I would not hire him again- HE should PAY YOU for the experience
I noticed that too but wasn't sure if i read it right thinking no way ***! maybe gen welder?
that's a little disappointing, live and learn i guess. i was confident he would do a good job after talking to him. he has 20+ yrs experience and welds for a living. he was using a Miller 903701 Maxstar 200 SD DC Tig and Stick Welder (i'm pretty sure) and a coleman 6hp generator 110v. i'm guessing it was around 40 amp 110v. thanks for the input everyone, i'll just keep an eye on the weld and keep looking for a pro welder :usa
My best advice is talk to small contractors in the area for recommendations- also Get somebody with air arc gouging capabilities as ADAMS Welding suggested . If a welder can air arc it will have enough UMP to burn the rod in properly- some of these small ones do not. Just he bought a welder at the five and dime does not mean either he or the welder will do the job There are guys who do good work on the side - but when one shows up with a baby welder, a good story, and few tools thrown in the back of a pickup - things probably are going down hill .
110
Sure is a funny looking weld in places, where he went vertical, not enough heat maybe. Not even peened. The crack looks like it travels farther up than where he welded. I'd be ashamed of a weld like that an I'm only an amateur welder. Phil
I'll go to Wally Word and get some J.B.Weld.At least it will cover that weld up.
If it does crack again you will regret putting jb weld on it. Leave it be, but pay close attention to it.
Phil, Damon - 6013 is just wrong for this job - Damon what you are calling pinholes are actually slag inclusions - you can not really vertical up with 6013, but you can vertical down - that is the result of not doing it correctly if gravity gets ahead of the weld , the rod will run over the slag , leaving hole full of slag MIG was a great replacement for 6013 and I still have few boxes left from the early seventy's, not a mover these days. From memory - 6013 is ac,shallow penetrating,soft arc ,medium to heavy flux excellent appearance welds overhead , welds flat, welds vertical down, but takes some experience- is easy to use flat and and overhead , stuff must be clean- requires fair fit up - considered a drag rod
I agree, if i was to repair that i would have used 220v mig, i've repaired many boom cracks with .035 ER70S-6 Vert down and there holding to this day, V it out wide, multi pass cool slow and your golden.
Just read through the thread. I'm no professional, but I don't like the looks of that weld, because of the inclusions and the poor penetration. How thick is the wall of the boom? Also interesting was the choice of welder. I also have a Maxstar 200, but haven't yet tried it on equipment repair. My other machine (Syncrowave 250) is the go-to.... provided I can get the equipment needing repair within 20 feet of the garage.... because I tend to do TIG only. I know, weird. But it comes out clean and lets me use any filler material I need to. No slag, no inclusions. Am I the only weirdo doing TIG on heavy equipment? I suppose I could use the same machine to stick weld, I even have 50' leads for the electrode holder (compared to 25' for the water cooled TIG torch).
Yair...can't believe the kerfuffle over what is/was should have been a simple job...just grind the b*****d out and weld it with some multicraft or whatever it's not bloody rocket science...and that gorilla snot needs grinding out and rewelding.
got a guy near pittsburgh that can weld wood under water. if you need a welder let me know.
To make you feel better Notice the huge embossed "WARNING: DUCTILE IRON DO NOT WELD." This is on a Case 580 SE I just bought today... I'll be on the lookout for people parting out their machine, so I can buy a spare tower casting. Anyway, hope that makes you feel better about your weld repair. =)
I was interested in possibly buying a case 580k years ago. I had a JD310 at the time but was impressed with the 580k's the contractor for the gas company was using. The only bad rap on the 580 was the cast boom which might crack and was considered unweldable by the dealer. I prefer a boom or stick you can weld if necessary. Are the booms still made of cast iron on the newer models?