Thank you all for your help! My John Deere 490e excavator has an issue where pressing down with the boom can randomly become weak after operating it for 20-30 minutes or so. Usually, pressing down with the bucket on the ground will lift the machine off it's tracks, but when this error occurs the machine will no longer lift up or press down to push dirt. I can still lift the boom up with load on it or push down with no load (not pushing the ground). If I shut the machine down and return to it later, everything works fine, at least for awhile. I am guessing it is a valve that is sticking when it gets hot somewhere? Here is what my manual says to do in this situation: My problem is that as a newbie, I am unsure how to do these tasks. I completed an online course in diesel mechanics and have spent 40 hours in a hydraulics course so far. I know the principles, but the actual hands on work is not something I have done enough of, but I am trying to get more experience. I looked up the proportional solenoid valve referenced (group 9015-15), but all it shows there is how to use a wiring test harness that is no longer made or sold anywhere. For the pump and valve controller step, I don't have the computer. I saw I can interpret the blinking lights, but haven't had the cover off yet. I asked a gentleman from this forum who posted years ago that he had the software to send it, but have not heard back. I have no idea how to manually move the control valve spool and variable pressure compensator valves to check for sticking or how to repair these. Group 3360 in the manual is just how to disassemble / reassemble these. And so on. I would really appreciate any advice or insight or direction you could provide! P.S. - I am also considering buying some PSI test gauges, but don't know exactly what to get. My manuals (tm1504 and tm1505) do not specify exactly what I would need as I am guessing that since these manuals were written for JD mechanics, they assume the mechanics have them already. Also - I ran through the cycle time test in the manual today, the complete results are below... the strange thing is that boom lower operates almost at the new spec whereas most of the other functions operate slower (it's an old machine) near the max spec: Boom raise spec 3.2 max 4.3 seconds Actual 4.2 Boom 4 lower spec 2.5 max 3.9 seconds Actual 2.8 Arm in spec 3.9 max 5.5 Actual 5.2 Arm extend spec 2.6 max 3.6 Actual 3.1 Bucket load spec 2.6 max 3.4 Actual 3.7 Bucket dump spec 1.8 max 2.6 Actual 3? Swing left or right 3 revolutions from running start 16.4 max 21.7 Actual 11 Propel 20 meters normal speed 21 seconds max speed 13 seconds slow speed 29 seconds Actual slow 38 Actual normal 20 Actual max 19l Propel track raised at max speed 3 revolutions from running start spec 14.5 max 19.0 Actual right 21.8 Actual left 20.5 but very shaky and noisy
FYI - this is the same machine basically as the Hitachi 120.
Please supply a serial number of the machine. The serial number will determine if it is a -2 or a -3 machine and will make a difference on the information needed. Next, remove the covers behind the seat to access the controllers. What does the light on the PVC do when the issue occurs? Perform the jumper method to access codes, if any, and post them. And, for the record, the test harness is still available (see below). Its part number is 4283614. You can also check the proportional solenoid valves with a test light, by backprobing and using jumpers to connect the test light.
Thank you very much for your helpful reply! Here are my answers: My serial number is FF490ES020154. I think this makes me equivalent to the Hitachi EX-120-2, correct? ( reference ) ------------------------------------- As best my wife and I can tell from this video starting at 1:16 I made, my error codes on the PVC are as follows: 13 - Engine Speed Sensor (N Sensor) Malfunction (Additional info from another part of the manual: Diagnostic Computer displays fault code ’13’ only when engine speed is not within specification. Nofault code is displayed if open circuit between N sensor or EC Check engine speed: P-mode: 2350 rpm E-mode: approx. 2150 rpm L-mode: approx. 1500 rpm I-mode: 900 rpm) 18 - Failure of Pump and Valve Controller (PVC) 31 - Disconnected Temperature Sensor (T Sensor) and/or wiring harness (Additional info for 31 and 32: The hydraulic oil temperature sensor (T sensor) senses hydraulic oil temperature. If provides the signal for operation of the warm-up circuit. If the T sensor fails, machine operation will be affected by the warm-up function not operating when warm-up switch is pushed. 32 - Short Circuit of Temperature Sensor (T Sensor) and/or wiring harness 34 - Disconnected Boom Up Pilot Pressure Sensor (BPI sensor) and/or wiring harness. (Additional info from another part of the manual: Fault code ’34’ indicates that the sensing signal in lower than 0.25 volts. Possible cause may be a disconnect wiring harness between BPI sensor and PVC or an open circuit in sensor.) Also - I have never reset these error codes, so some may be old? Not sure if the computer deletes old ones automatically. If I did clear them, how long would I need to operate it before checking codes again? We used these instructions from manual 1504: and here is what the manual says to do for each: The forum blocks me from adding the last image (only 4 at a time). So here it is copy and pasted: 34 Disconnected Boom Up Pilot Pressure Sensor (BPI sensor) and/or wiring harness 1) Do Retry Procedure B . 2) Check BPI sensor wiring harness and connectors. 3) Replace BPI sensor ------------------ I have a call in to the Pape dealer for the test harness part number 4283614. They say they see it on their side, but it is only called "Bulb". Is that right? Their price is $58. -------------- I have been looking for the Dr Zx scanner tool and found a couple of options... what would you think is my best bet? https://www.aliexpress.com/i/2251832779395064.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt or http://www.obd2store.com/hitachi-dr...achi-excavator-diagnostic-scanner-p-2395.html or https://www.ebay.ca/itm/231792073401
I just purchased the "bulb" (part number 4283614, hopefully the test harness!)
What's your location?
I am near Eatonville, WA... near highway 7 and the 702. Want to come help?
No thanks, I'd have to drive through Seattle to get there. If I never have to go there again it's OK with me.
Ah, well thanks for even thinking of it! Yeah, I avoid Seattle at this point too. Any advice on my issue?
Back in the day I worked on a lot of Deere/Hitachi dash 1,2,3 & 5 but haven't done much on them for quite a few years. The dash 2 machines especially can make you tear your hair out but if you get to the point where you understand them and can work on them you can stay busy. I'll see if I get some time to do a little studying and see if I can refresh the grey matter to remember a few things.
Thank you! As I mentioned in the first post, I'm a newbie here to mechanic work so even tips and advice you might consider obvious are helpful to me. My current questions are: 1. The boom lower function is just weak sometimes, but not slow. I copy and pasted the section out of the 1504 manual above talking about a slow boom, but is that the right troubleshooting area to look at? 2. Above I pasted in the error codes with the PVC. I have never reset any codes though (and I'm not sure I am able to without the computer), should I try to do so? 3. I do not own any hydraulic pressure gauges. I saw this one recommended by the farmcraft guy on YouTube... https://a.co/d/0PFhEQf Will this work for me or do I need something else for my machine? I searched for quick coupler in the manuals and there is no hits... Maybe I just need old school standard fittings? I am also not sure what sizes I'll need. What would I look for in the manual to find this or do I have to measure the fittings on the machine somehow? 4. In a previous message I posted a few options for the dr ZX computer deal... Should I buy one of those or something else? The manual references the diagnostic computer almost everywhere so I assume I'll need it if I'm going to be doing more work? 5. What would you do as the next steps in my shoes to troubleshoot and solve this?
Yours would be equivalent to a -2 Hitachi. John Deere has a split at 25000. 24999 and down is -2, 25000 and up is -3. I would try clearing the codes and running the machine again until the problem appears. Then force it to do the problem a few times so that it will store a code. Any of those scanners will probably work. You definitely want one that is on a palm pilot or some other device. The ones that are just a disc that you put into your computer don't work. I have Dr.ZX on a palm pilot and it worked for a while until my "new" pvc computer from china decided to stop communicating with it.
What you will get is what my picture shows.
I purchased this one... I'll let you know how it goes: https://www.ebay.com/itm/231792073401
@LACHAU I just saw your post here... HeavyEquipmentForums Did I buy the old / wrong version?
Thanks John Deere... $0.25 of wire and plastic I paid $36 plus $20 shipping for
Be thankful you can still get it. Start pricing out electrical connectors and you'll likely find that you have $25.00 worth of connectors plus a light and some wire.
Thanks, good point! I had visualized something bigger haha.
The lights can be a bit difficult to see in direct sunlight. I've also extended several of mine so that I can take the light into the cab with me, that way I can run the machine and watch the lights without having another person around.
I tried to follow the fault code reset procedure as described in this forum thread: HeavyEquipmentForums "After counseling from RGL (thank you) I was able to get the computer to flash the codes at me. (Jumper wire in both right hand quadrants of the dr zx port) There were quite a few.. Luckily a quick reset of the codes (Start with jumper in socket, shut off for 10 sec, restart remove for 1+ sec then replace) cut the list down to 2, which was much more approachable" The procedure was a little unclear, I am not sure it worked as I'm still seeing three codes, 31,32,34. Any advice? The manual's description of resetting fault codes only applies to the diagnostic computer.
Ok, apparently I am slow. I followed the directions again and was able to clear all the codes. The engine controller is not showing any codes and the pump and Valve controller is showing code 31. I have not had a chance to actually operate it yet though.
While sticking my head behind the operator's seat checking the codes on the pump and valve controller computer and the engine computer, I noticed a sound that I thought was bad news. What do you guys think? https://photos.app.goo.gl/36WBDkYwUobrCcca8
I think you shared the wrong video??
I think it's the correct video, I should have made it longer. The sound is the weird clacking and squeaking over the engine. I will run it again today and see if I can catch it.
The displacement solenoids on the pump make a clicking/clacking sound when machine is running.
Ok, thank you!
Ok, so I use the excavator to refill a trench for a while today, and eventually the weak boom symptom occurred again. It definitely seems after a few uses of pushing down with the boom that it occurs. I am guessing that means it is probably some sort of valve? The codes I have after this are as follows: PVC 13,31,32,34 EC - 13 I also noticed a hissing sound like a pressure relief valve being used while I had the machine in idle with the hydraulics lever in the off position. I know that this machine uses a variable pump and I thought the swash plate would go to a zero position and all the fluid would just go straight from the pump to tank? Here is a video of it. I'm not sure if this is normal or not. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dH7D3rg2N2RA5xat9
In post #21 you said you only had code 31. Now you have added 13, 32, and 34. You may need to address these codes, especially the 13 and 34. Once the code issue is resolved, then move on if the problem persists. As far as the pump, it never fully destrokes. With the levers in neutral, the pump will maintain approximately 24 degrees of swash. This is where you need diagnostic equipment so the pump displacement angle can be checked and properly adjusted if necessary.
Ok, so I am working on error code 34: 34 - Disconnected Boom Up Pilot Pressure Sensor (BPI sensor) and/or wiring harness. (Additional info from another part of the manual: Fault code ’34’ indicates that the sensing signal in lower than 0.25 volts. Possible cause may be a disconnect wiring harness between BPI sensor and PVC or an open circuit in sensor.) I plugged in the test harness at the boom up pilot pressure sensor and moved the boom up and down in this video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/N2mpEgYWyqtGio2M8 The light never came on, so I am guessing no electricity is passing through the harness. I looked at the harness map and the wiring harness joins and splits with a bunch of other cable harnesses. I don't really know what to do next to trace the issue down?
I highlighted in blue the boom up pilot pressure sensor, but I am not sure how to trace where to look from here on this diagram.
If you are using the light mentioned in post #3, it will not work for that. That light is only for the 24 volt pump solenoids, not a 5 volt referencing circuit. In the manual, section 9015-10, W5 wiring diagrams will show where the wiring for that sensor goes and which terminals and in which connectors it travels through. System Functional Schematic in the same section will show where the wiring goes as well. You will want to address the speed sensor code 13 as well. That sensor is very important in the operation of the that machine.
Ok, so I am working on addressing fault codes 34 and 13. 34 first : I disconnected the wiring harness from the boom up pilot pressure sensor. I tested the wiring up to the computer and that all works. I tried testing the sensor's resistance using my multimeter. I got OL the whole time... Whether the machine was off or on, and when I pulled the sensor off the machine. I believe this sensor works like a potentiometer, so I should measure some resistance. I assume this means the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced? Here is a video of my work on it: https://photos.app.goo.gl/eq31pK9WWApTfWsB8 And here is some extra videos from earlier troubleshooting of this, probably not as helpful: Testing the boom up pressure sensor with it removed from the machine https://photos.app.goo.gl/DoGPkGSKUmNm1Gh39 13 next ... I am just trying to correctly identify the engine speed sensor right now. The manual says it is located in the right rear compartment on the main hydraulic pump. I looked it up in Google and here is what that shows it looking like: And here is an excerpt from a video I took of the sensor I think it is: And here is the full video of where I think the engine speed sensor is: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jFaDQRp7WWbWNeS3A
Yup , that’s the engine speed sensor. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/74953/referrer/search/pgId/404763890/partnumber/4265372/callout/70 .
Thank you! Okay, I tested the engine speed sensor following the manual's instructions. Resistance through the sensor was right on (manual says 810 +-240, sensor read 800). I ran the engine at varying speeds and AC voltage increased with engine speed just like the manual said (Idle at 2.6v, low 3.3v, economy 3.9v). I moved on to the next area to test, which was the engine speed sensor wiring harness and ran into problems. Here is the manual's instructions: The image of the pins for the wiring harness do not match either the Engine Controller Harness or the Pump and Valve Controller Harness from what I can see. Each of those can be seen here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/oa1LNsk7eQkQmFp26 And here is a longer video of what I am seeing: https://photos.app.goo.gl/vvGWsp6iSEmQfXZR8 Any suggestions?
Ok, I looked at my little video and the blurry diagram from the manual. I think the Pump and Valve Controller (what the image says is top, but actually is on bottom) has 17 pins on the left side for one wire and the other one is the Engine Controller (what the image says is bottom but is actually on top) has 13 pins on the left side. Strange I would be testing continuity between two separate harnesses. I will try it when I go out to the excavator again. My probe and toner didn't detect anything, so if I am correct this probably means the wiring harness may have been cut somewhere...
While I cannot advise on your specific issues, and seems like you are getting fantastic help on this, I have vast experience in electronics/electrical and I have lost count how many issues I find in the actual terminal plugs. It usually causes people to replace needless parts or chase their tail, assuming when the plug is connected, it has proper continuity. There are many techniques to repair/improve these without replacement. Just as an example, on my own EX, I found the engine speed sensor was not working. Sensor tested good, and harness tested good. Obviously the book would then say "replace computer"....lol It was the pins in the plug that connect to the ECM. 5min fix. Ghost voltage on bad contacts can bite you. As soon as there is any current, the voltage can drop to 0. Sometimes when looking inside a plug, you can get visual clues that point towards poor contact. In another case, I found a bad plug with the green powder of death on one pin. Guess which one I fixed! I had to pull that pin and solder up a new one.
I am very glad you replied with this helpful advice! You might be right, it could be the connector. I was just about to reply myself with my findings from this mornings work... At first this morning I thought one of the two wires on the engine speed sensor harness must be faulty. I disconnected other sensors from the main pump so I could pull it out and work on it. I thought that because my toner and probe became much quieter right there that there could be a break in the wire. I peeled back some old brittle electrical tape and thought I might have found the problem as I could see some wire strands sticking out. When I pulled it out further, I realized it was the grey cable sheathing over the two internal wires with a type of insulation I hadn't seen before; a layer of rubber covering wires and paper... I am guessing to protect the AC signal? Anyways, that created a Faraday cage sort of thing so my toner and probe would get much fainter right there. There was no break as far as I could tell. I still am not certain that the wires are good yet. At the end of my video below, you will see I was getting a strong tone at the wire harness connector next to the computer on both wires... But at the same spot on just one wiring harness connector by the computers. I was testing things by sticking a multistranded wire into the connector pin then attaching my toner to it. It is possible that some of the wire strands could have crossed to the other pin and sent the toner signal on one wire. Maybe I need to retry with a piece of solid copper wire... The strange thing is that the manual tells me I should be getting a signal at two different wiring harness connectors... So maybe I just had a stray strand going through the engine speed sensor side connector to touch both pins.. Here is a compilation video of my troubleshooting if that helps... https://photos.app.goo.gl/k4vGHfR9YvHRxjGg9 I have never messed around with actual connectors much, but I think you could be right. I could see one of these old connectors losing a pin or being corroded inside. I definitely hope to avoid replacing the computers! Another possibility is everything works correctly and just for some reason the engine speed sensor occasionally misses a connection with the computer, this throwing the error code? It sounds good when it is running to me and switching between idle, low, economy, and max power settings... This is my first time attempting a repair like this, so I really appreciate all the advice and insight!
When dealing with electrical, the first places I go are where someone jacked with the wiring. Very rarely do I ever find pro level repairs. If you have strands sticking out, that whole area becomes suspect. Butt connectors and tape is not a proper repair. High resistance can cause weak signal returns. Sounds like you should comb the wiring before replacing anything.
Okay, so I went out and worked on figuring out what's going on with the engine speed sensor wiring some more this evening. I ended up snipping off the connector on the side of the engine speed sensor so I could test the wires directly. What I found with the toner and probe is that the electrical signals both went to the same spot on the engine controller computer side wiring harness... The fourth pins from the sensor on both top and bottom. I looked back into the manual and found a wiring diagram with better details for the engine speed sensor, and contrary to what the manual shows in the engine speed sensor troubleshooting area, the wiring diagram showed both wires going to the engine controller, and said they were the 4 and 11 pins. Below is a screenshot: So my working theory is that there's a short circuit in the wiring harness connector that goes into the engine controller. I tested this out by using my multimeter to test continuity between the top and bottom pins in the fourth position on that connector (which I believe to be the 4 and 11 the wiring diagram reference), the result of which was that they were continuous. I could be wrong and maybe somewhere those two wires are short circuiting elsewhere, but I'm not sure how to test for that or find it. There is a very strong gray cable insulation around these two wires once it leaves the engine sensor area, so if that continued all the way up to the engine wiring harness, I'd be very surprised if something else had short circuited them. Below is a video of my troubleshooting today, it is kind of long, but skip around and it will give you an idea what I am looking at. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kyx2hYCnk5Wkrycf9 What would you recommend my next steps to be? Should I try to replace the wiring harness connector? That sounds scary to be in terms of getting it all put back together correctly... Thoughts or suggestions?
I am shooting in the dark here but appears you are talking about the "pump speed sensor" Maybe that is all the same? Certainly not on my CAT, but..... Anyway, that diagram SUCKS! Hard to look at but appears that sensor is discrete (wires connect to nothing else), and only has 2 wires? If that is correct, that is likely an inductive pickup coil, in which it returns small voltage sine pulses back. Can confirm if there is a resistance spec for that sensor. If that is the case, you can easily just pull that plug from the ECM, put meter on it, and crank, ,and will be looking for AC BUT you have to be really careful as some RMS meters want to ignore anything outside of 60hz and this will be. A scope is your friend here! If there is no AC wave form, go right back to the sensor. If you find it there, you have a culprit. The AC amount is not that important. ECM will probably recognize anything over 5-10VAC, and will be looking for a sine wave so will have a trigger set in the programming. If it never hits that voltage, it is ignored.
This is the engine speed sensor. The controllers use it to set idle, low, economy, and max power settings as well as to handle the auto idle circuit (when no functions are in use it returns the engine from the current settings to idle and waits for operator input to rev up again). I tested the engine speed sensor and it works great, I had a previous post on it. Now my problem is where these wires go and why I have what appears to be a short circuit between the two, maybe at the connector as you previously mentioned. I actually made several posts above, did you see them? Your idea of pulling the connector from the engine controller is interesting... The manual says in a few dozen places not to try to run the machine though without it as it could cause permanent damage? This is one of the first machines they used a computer controller like this... It's a 1996 model year. The engine speed sensor does have just two wires and does have a resistance spec. Right now I just have a multimeter and toner / probe, sounds like I might need a different tool to check? As I mentioned before, the sensor tests out and works. I cut the two prong connector off the engine sensor side so I could test the wires better. I have to fix that. I think there is a short circuit maybe in the controller side connector or maybe in the wiring. Not really sure where to go on it... The new wiring schematic I posted for the engine controller connector that says the two wires outlet on pins 4 and 11 does not match my actual testing of the connector.
If book states not to attempt cranking without plug, I would just go with that for now. Look up an inductive pickup to understand their function to help you in diagnostics. They are self exciting, meaning they make a voltage when a piece of iron passes by them. I they are shorted, they will not die, but will not create a voltage the ECM can see. Yeah, that may be an issue. Since the wire numbers do not align from actual and book, are you really certain you are checking the right pins in the plug? Be certain. Your DMM should be able to see the resistance of a pickup, no problem. They are usually 100-1500ohms or so.
I went out and worked on the excavator a bit this morning. I realized last night I had been testing the wiring harness connector backwards... I should have been testing from the right rear compartment with the engine sensor and testing for continuity from those two wires. When I did that this morning, I had continuity, meaning it was showing what it should be showing. I want to be sure that the fault code 13 engine sensor is not just being caused by me turning the battery disconnect off. I put everything back together and then reset the computer codes. I very briefly ran the machine for maybe 2 minutes using various functions. When I turned it off the only code I still had was number 31. I have not yet replaced the boom up pilot sensor, so I know that code will return eventually. Maybe the engine sensor code number 13 will return too. I am going to order the new boom up pilot sensor this morning. We are going on vacation till sunday, then I get back I'm going to operate it for a longer period and see what codes return and report back here.
Well, here's my sad story: I replaced the boom up pilot pressure sensor. I am still getting error 34, saying it's disconnected. The connector won't click when I try and push it together. Maybe I can find a replacement connector for it... I had ordered the computer (palm pilot plus software). The eBay seller claims it was delivered, but did not actually deliver it. The post office says there was a different address on the package and the package only weighed 1 oz so it could not have been it. Sounds like I might have been scammed. Ugh. I ran the machine for a while tonight after resetting the error codes and here's what I have: 30,31,32,34, 13,18.
And my original problem of the boom down function becoming weak remains.
You could try to chase one issue at a time, which I might suggest code 34. You did what most do which is replace the part when you get a code. I think you now realize it is not the sensor but the wiring or something else. I suggest old school testing with meters and possibly even a test light if you like those. They add load to the wire which can help troubleshoot. But as I mention on the plugs, they get people! You can actually remove the pins from the connectors and adjust them and put them back if you are careful and have a clue. or get creative and put jumpers on all of that to confirm contact and see what you get. As for ebay, send them a link for a palm pilot with the weight along with the USPS data. You should have enough to get a refund. Accept nothing less! They already know the guy is a scammer. They foster them on egay.....
Thank you for your response! I like the idea of moving one issue at a time. I will keep working on 34 until it's fixed. Any idea of where I could find a replacement connector to buy that matches it? Here is a picture https://photos.app.goo.gl/WqX5HJ7WCiRDqv8U9 I had tested the old boom up pilot pressure sensor with my multimeter and it looked dead. I hope to not just be a replace the part and hope it works guy! Though that might be a step up for me in terms of capabilities... I am wondering if there is just some gunk in the old connector preventing it from clicking in with the new sensor? The new sensor could also be an issue since Pape Machineries parts guy and the service guy were not completely sure this was the correct sensor... I'll check that too more closely.
Get better pics and send to Molex. They might help you. There are other resources online but I can tell you finding housings is a nightmare! This is why I try to fix when I can. the white part is the housing, then the OEM buys the pins that they want. They all lock into the housings with some type of tab or tang. I have special tools to remove those pins and sockets! They are not expensive! $5! Or if you have good eyes, good light, and tiny tools, you can absolutely get them out without the tools. I do it all the time. I recommend careful documentation, pics, then remove the pins and see how they all fit. they should be obviously tight, but if sloppy, you have a problem.
I purchased some tiny tools last night. I came out and cleaned off the connectors and plug for the boom up pilot pressure sensor this morning. I reset the codes and am currently only seeing 31. I am going to work it for a bit then see what codes are showing.
Okay, this is strange. I ran the machine for about an hour and a half after resetting the codes this morning. I still only am showing code 31. New theory: I added a battery disconnect switch on the batteries maybe a year ago due to a parasitic draw somewhere. I saw somewhere in the manual that disconnecting the batteries can sometimes cause a code to appear? It does seem like I have a lot of codes though... The machine generally runs well other than the weakness on boom down though.
Hello Joelx I also have a 490E and I was wondering if you could help me out the alternator resistor located behind the seat on the left hand side of the cab (when sitting in the seat) 2 wire device bolted to the left of the relays red/white and blue/yellow. Mine is blown and I cannot read or measure the resistance If you could help me out and read or measure how many ohms it is I would greatly appreciate it thank you
Happy to help! I am not near my machine now, but here is the manual says it is 40 amps, see below. Can you send me a video of picture of what you are talking about so I can find it in person for you?
Also- here is what the wiring diagram shows... it doesn't give a resistance though. If you send me a picture in your machine of where you want me to test resistance, I'll do it in mine.
I don't know your hoe but I do commonly work with the Delco alternators and suspect yours is a 10SI 3 wire. The resistor you see is technically not needed IF you wire the warning light correctly. A light bulb works as a series resistor and basically that they are using it for is current limiting. You will notice on the diagram that D is continued with the D (warning light). I'm sure Deere probably put both on just for people that hack wiring, but if you go through your small dash warning light in series, you will be fine. That light should go to ground (light turns off) when alt is working correctly.
Hi fastline thanks for the reply My alternator is a Bosch and has 2 wires the output and the field terminal with an internal voltage regulator. 24 V unit I don't know the model of the top of my head but I could remove it from the machine and find out Yes you are right the resistor is a current limiting it also drops the voltage to about 5 volts for the monitor controller CPU Do you happen to know what current the field winding typically takes. I'm not sure how to wire it through the warning bulb as you suggest. Not clear on your idea but it sounds interesting Thanks again
Hi Joe lx. the resistor is mounted to the side of the relay holder its behind the seat behind the air and cable duct at the door side of the cab I have taken a picture but I have to figure out how to attach it
Using a resistor to drop voltage is not a reliable method without both knowing and maintaining a constant current. V=IR. I am not sure why they would do that but I have seen series resistors just to drop V a bit before a real regulator tames the voltage. Just as the poor boy method of running an LED with a resistor, if the input voltage goes up, so does the output, then the current! poof! Are there no numbers on the resistor? Many are actually coded. If you are running a Bosch, I recommend you figure out the model and look up their wiring to understand it. I don't want to feed you bad advise.
This is the resistor removed it is mounted with a round head philips machine bolt door side by the safety lock lever wires red white and blue yellow still attached
No nothing legible its a ceramic wire wound 10 watt that's all I know
The picture below shows the wires to the resistor still attached the connectors can be pulled apart to measure the resistance. The red white wire carries the power 24 v but it is dead with the key in the off position the blue yellow goes to the field terminal of the alternator and to the CPU monitor controller Let me know if you require more information Thanks
What voltage range can the field winding take
I honestly am shooting from the hip and experience here, based on the way a typical 2 term Delco reg works. Again, I would recommend learning about the alternator and their wiring and behaviors. With a Delco, the indicator term would be hot just until excitation happens, then the term drops to a ground reference. This is why when a vehicle is not running, the battery indicator is on, then goes out when charging. The light bulb functions as a current limiter so too much current is not going through the reg. I can see in the schematic it appears the sense lead was just jumpered to the battery term, which is common. What is the problem with your equipment? Not charging? It might be more proper to start a new thread and not dirty this one up. EDIT!!!! I 100% inverted the dang term 1 on a Delco! That term should be a ground reference. Power should be applied to that term THROUGH a small indicator lamp that limits the current. Once the alt is charging, that term comes up to battery voltage, thus turning off the lamp. I looked at that darn schematic and got all screwed up. I just wanted to correct that.
They have a resistor in the circuit because the battery light in the instrument panel is controlled by the controller, with a transistor. So, wiring the light into the circuit is not an option.
John deere uses both on this excavator according to the schematic I have the delco and the Bosch Thanks for clearing that up
This is what I suspect is they are using the resistor in lieu of a bulb. It can work similar but a bulb just has the ability to basically be a 'variable resistor' of sorts. Should not matter in this case as there should not be current when making power. OP, this is how I might approach this. It is a 10W resistor but a sure bet they would never drive that at 10W but they might have set it in a way that if something is shorted, it still would not fail. V=IR VA = W 10W/28V = .357A 28V/.357A = 78.43ohms. However, as mentioned, that would be a dead short situation. If I was to reach for a resistor, I would error on the side of what a typical bulb might use, which is like 1W. So if we consider that, I might reach for a 500ohm resistor for this. That would be .056A or 1.5W max. So a 10W/500ohm resistor should be enough to light the circuit and maintain good margins for burnout. But of course, I recommend checking wiring for that alternator to ensure this is how they function and I am not leading you down an incorrect path.
I agree. You only need a minuscule amount of current to get the alternator to charge. Better to have too many ohms than not enough.
Thank you for taking the time it seems that you put a lot of time into this you are very thorough. I will do some experimenting and post the results thanks again Would you know what a typical resistance is for a excitation winding is
Sorry it took me a few days, but I have your answer for you! See attached images with specs. Looks like 10 watts and 200 ohms.
Back to my issue: my theory that disconnecting the batteries causes codes to appear I think is incorrect. I left my battery connected for a couple of days while the machine was off, and came back to codes 13, 31,32,34 appearing.
Obviously I am not familiar with your actual machine but would help if you could list the codes that keep popping up and what they are? In the schematic, go study any of the related sensors that are coding just to see if some junction or something obvious stands out. Many times a plug that is common to all is where I find issues. Or a power supply to all those sensors! I am not saying that is even it but when you start stacking codes, usually there is a common denominator. I find it strange that one one code after disconnecting the battery since many machines have or should have a master switch that disconnects everything.
No problem I realized that you are busy Thanks for taking the time to have a look this might help you in the future as well
Thank you very much Joe you saved me you just $124.30 C . But it's not just the money for the resistor you have to ask why did this component blow in the first place. I could have spent the money and still had problems maybe even blow it again. Thanks to you now I can purchase a handful of them for a couple of bucks and do more trouble shooting Put this value on your schematic for future use. I will get some and do some testing and I will post what I find Thanks again
See post #32 on page 2... I was working on fault code #34. Glad to help, let me know if it works!
Ok, so I am working on fault code 34 boom up pilot pressure sensor issue. See post #32 on page 2 of this thread for the full manual explanation on that one. I replaced the sensor, but it still does not work. I tested voltage at the wiring connector and got 4.6-4.8 volts. When I try to measure resistance on the new sensor with it detached from the machine or attached to the machine, I get O.L. I had the same thing with the old sensor, so I had assumed it was faulty and bought this replacement. Now I am stumped as to what it could be. It also might be intermittent? Here are pictures of the new sensor and also a video of the voltage on the wiring harness connector https://photos.app.goo.gl/WUaFBkRfKdkB2dHZ7
I am wondering two things: 1) It looks like this is the pressure sensor sent by Pape https://www.sensata.com/products/switches/pressure-switches-20ps . This appears to be a switch with either open or closed as the only settings. This could explain the O.L. reading? The manual seems to think this should be getting a reading between 0.25 volts and 5 volts all the time though. Did I get the wrong sensor? 2) the manual says the problem that occurs if this sensor does not work is that "If the BPI sensor fails, the bucket may dig in if boom up and arm in are operated too quickly." To me, this does not sound related to my core issue of a weak boom down function sometimes after the machine is warmed up. Should I just abandon the sensor fault code issue and focus on the weak boom down issue?
Here's a note to myself and others who have a weak boom down for John Deere 490e / Hitachi 120-2 - check the arm out, boom down, and bucket pressure switch as below:
And here is the check for the boom proportional solenoid: And here are their locations:
Ugh, I just realized this whole time I have been working on the wrong sensor on the machine for fault code 34... The boom up pilot pressure sensor is on the left side of that little box whereas the boom up pressure switch is on the front. The one I changed was on the front (smacks head on the wall lol).
I will let you rectify your error but understand something, a 'switch' is FAR different than a 'sensor' in that a switch only changes state where as a sensor will return variable values. Don''t get them confused. People read across switches all the time with no clue what they are looking for. The ideal is 0ohms vs OL. Anything dancing in the middle is a potential concern but I have had to patch CNC machines with a series resistor just to lie to the control and keep a machine going. You cannot test a switch without forcing all its switched states. If that is applying 1000psi, so be it.
Ok... so my serial number is 20xxx. I am below the 25000 serial number when some changes to the machine were made according to the manual. According to the manual (and from inspecting my machine), I do NOT have a boom up pilot pressure sensor at all. Why in the world would the controller be giving me the fault code? Maybe someone replaced my controller with one for a 25000+ machine? See below images for evidence: This is a picture of the block where the sensor would be... on the left hand side here: I think what I've been calling the boom up pilot pressure sensor is simply the boom up pressure switch: This part of the manual seems to say that a arm in pressure sensor and a boom up pilot pressure sensor were added for machines after serial number 25000? Here is a couple of other references and pics if it helps: https://photos.app.goo.gl/QYovW3MRMHNENqvV6 And machine pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ry8maFHMEM6Je2cYA
Seems like a weird design to me but apparently the pilot switches tell the system that certain functions are happening and I guess they are supposed to upstroke? I am getting lost in this repair but the basics usually prevail. Many people term 'lack of power as 'lack of speed'. Remember these hydro pumps are pos displacement so not being able to develop force is different than just going slow. Slow usually means lack of fluid volume (lack of stroke), vs lack of power which could mean bad pumps or valves leaking over so PSI seen at implement is not at spec. At this point, simple pressure gauges might tell you more. I know it has proven things to me more than once, which you can then write off! In the repair field, finding what is 'right' is usually part of sourcing the issue. Also remember that boom up and stick out require big girl power from the engine and pumps. Boom/stick down usually uses recirc valving to reduce useless system demand, heat, etc. Let me put this more simply. If you are doing a boom up, if you tap in the line, if the boom pressure can go to relief pressure at full ext, that means valves could be working fine. If they are way short, that is an issue to address first. If relief is good but speed is slow, you need to find a way to ensure pump stroke is at max. If it is, pump has an issue. If it isn't resolve why pump is not going to max stroke.
joelx777 said “Maybe someone replaced my controller with one for a 25000+ machine?” . There should be a part number on the existing PVC . Screenshot with PVC part #’s below. .
Thank you Diesel Dave! I will check this.
Thank you Fastline. This is not a loss of speed, boom down goes quickly enough. However, when I press the bucket on the ground to lift the tracks, nothing happens. When the problem occurs, pressing the bucket down exerts no power or force, or at least not enough to lift the tracks. I agree completely that it is time for some pressure gauges. I actually have worked on taking a hydraulics course online for around 30 hours, so I know the basic principles... but I have never done any actual hands on work and don't own any gauges. What size pressure gauges and hoses and fittings do I need? Is there an easy way to find this?
What you have to realize is what I said previous, when the boom or stick goes down, 'usually' there is a recirculation valve or a 'counter balance valve' that creates a short circuit if you will. Allows oil to simply flow from one end of the cylinder, over to the other using only the weight of the machine. At the exact point where you strike the ground, that valve should slam shut and allow the pump to take over feeding that circuit with high pressure. That valve is where I would start. I can't imagine there being an electric switch for this. Usually all mechanical, either inside the big valve block or by itself. If there literally is no power to pick up the machine, that means oil is leak by in the system. It could be that valve, a bad relief valve, etc.
I think you are right, I will test the hydraulics, especially the relief valves now. The system and surge pressure relief valves have to be tested prior to the circuit / cylinder relief valves according the manual, so I am going to do that first. It's been raining like crazy here, so I haven't gone out yet to do anything further with the machine. I did price out some of the fittings to try to test pressures on the machine from Pape. All of these are tee fittings from the manual... Tees: $48 JT03191 (7/16-20 M 37° x 7/16-20 F 37° x 7/16-20 M 37°) Tee (Propel Speed Change Solenoid Valve Test & Adjustment) $153 JT03464 (1/4 BSPP M x 7/16-20 M 37° x M14-1.5 M 45°) Tee (Propel Proportional Solenoid Valve Test And Adjustment) $16 203836 (9/16-18 M 37° x 9/16-18 F 37° Sw x 7/16-20 M 37°) Tee (Pilot Pressure Regulating Valve Test And Adjustment) $17.64 202862 (3/4-16 M 37° x 3/4-16 F 37° Sw x 7/16-20 M 37°) Tee (Oil Cooler Flow & Pressure Drop Test) $15 TH108328 - 4200465 adapter System Relief Valve Test And Adjustment, Surge Relief Valve Test And Adjustment-Serial, Circuit Relief Valve Test And Adjustment, Swing Motor Crossover Relief Valve Test $997 JT05984 Flow Meter 0-400 L/min (0-100 gpm).... I will probably skip this unless I have to have it... Hoses / pressure gauges / fittings? I also found this cheaper Chinese kits online... You think one of these could do the job or should I buy the individual parts from Pape above? - https://www.amazon.com/SINOCMP-Hydraulic-Kit-Pressure-Gauges/dp/B07TQD53FT#customerReviews - https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Hydrau...d0-837b-70aea8607210&pd_rd_i=B09Z6NQDCV&psc=1 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0833WS6D...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= - https://www.amazon.com/CO-Z-Hydraul...bd3-a0f4-59b3eeb0e177&pd_rd_i=B087TVQH99&th=1 Any opinions on if I should buy this stuff or something else?
Well Pape is out... they can't get the parts till July 2024!
What I might do is study the hydro schematic carefully. I don't know how many pumps you have but use other machine functions just to verify the pumps can achieve the spec pressure. Then you can be assured that part is good. Then move to boom down while in the air and as it touches down. Has the boom down function ever worked correctly? Or is the issue sporadic? Is it only the boom down or other functions?
I have been reading and re-reading the manual to try to wrap my head around it. I believe there is just the main pump and a pilot pump on my machine. Good idea on using functions to make sure the pumps can achieve the spec pressure. I believe the boom down worked correctly when I first bought it. I did a bunch of land clearing on my property and used the boom down to swing back and forth a lot to smooth things out, which I have since heard is not good to do and can cause issues. The boom down pressing on dirt weakness issue is sporadic. It doesn't happen when the machine is cold, but does happen after 20-30 minutes of operation where I am pressing down with the flat of the bucket to lift the tracks. It does seem to still dig fine though, which is weird. I noticed it primarily after having backfilled a ditch when I am dragging with the bottom "knuckle" of the bucket to flatten things out a bit.
Aggressive side swiping can destroy the pins/bushings/arm, but I tend to think we all do some of that. I know I do but I am very careful to go slow and only do it for final finishing. That aside, it should not hurt the hydraulics of the machine. If the boom is up and turned off, does the boom stay up or bleed down?
The boom stays up and does not bleed down.
That's at least some indication that your boom piston seals are ok.
The mystery deepens... I see the part number 9116790 on my PVC, indicating this would be the correct version for my machine : pre-25000 serial numbers. The port where a boom up pilot pressure sensor would go appears to have some sort of flush plug in it. See below: And here is the parts diagram again for ease of reference: The million dollar question is why does my pre-25000 serial John Deere 490e Pump and Valve Controller expect a boom up pilot pressure sensor when that was supposed to be a post -25000 serial number feature only? And should I do anything like try adding one and running wiring for it, or just ignore this fault code?
Inclined to ignore and keep testing hydraulics. Check books to find which pins on controller for that sensor and see if it is even pinned out. If no pins in the connector, just move on for now. It was workout without before.
Here is a demonstration of the issue and a test suggested by a friend to see if operating the bucket would help the boom (it did not). https://photos.app.goo.gl/m8oT2h8YhjVk5gSF9 When the weak boom issue occurs, it appears to not be helped by opening the bucket, so it looks like it isn't the shuttle valve of the variable pressure compensating valves. I do hear a little extra noise that I think could be a relief valve letting hydraulic fluid through prematurely. The bucket operates with regular power unlike the boom. I still am looking for suggestions on pressure gauges if anyone has them for testing this and identifying exactly what the cause is. Thank you for your help! Joel
Sounds good. Here are my new test gauges in a kit I bought for $175.
Where did you pick that kit up?
Hydraulic Pressure Test Kit, 600bar /10000psi / 60Mpa 5 Gauges 13 Test Couplings 14 Tee Connectors 5 Test Hoses, Hydraulic Test Gauge kit for Excavator Construction Machinery https://a.co/d/53lrIrG
Have no idea what I am hearing, but when you push down with the boom, there seems to be an odd swooshing sound which could be a failing valve. I recommend you get extra ears on it to investigate. I do know how microphones can pickup noise that isn't really there too. I don't think there is any question that what you will see if boom down pressure that spikes, but certainly not high enough. The question becomes where is the issue! Now I am going to tell you a very sneaky way potentially spot this. A FLIR camera! If oil is going over relief, a bad valve, or even hydro cylinders are junk, you are going to find serious heating. You can set the machine on boom down for several seconds and get to feeling. Most people don't have a FLIR camera. You might not be able to spot he valve but it's return line will get hot.
I wish I had access to one of those FLIR cameras! My laser temperature thermometer gauge might be sort of similar? Much less efficient though. I did receive my pressure test set in the mail, and I was able to hook up my 10,000 PSI gauge to the system test port on the pump. I was seeing 5100 to 5200 PSI at the max, which is what the surge and circuit relief valves are supposed to be set to approximately according to the manual. Is there an easy way to test each of these separately? I am guessing they are probably fine since it's only the boom down function that's an issue. Not much visible in this video, but it shows the machine was too cold for testing. And since the machine was cold, the boom down function was working. https://photos.app.goo.gl/2rx8KXHPM8jvH4T36 I think the most likely culprit is the boom down pressure relief valve malfunctioning. I am going to try to tighten it's set screw tomorrow after I get the weak boom down misbehavior to happen again and see if that fixes it.
Okay, I went out and ran the machine today. Sure enough, once it was warm the boom down pressure would not build beyond 2000, it should go up to 5200. I took off the cover on the boom down circuit pressure relief valve, and turned the adjustment screw the equivalent of 3200 PSI up. Once the machine warmed up again, it would not go above 2,000 PSI like before. I'm trying to remove the pressure relief valve, but it's on there super tight and I can't get any leverage. Here's what it looks like - https://photos.app.goo.gl/RJ6ZPdRcYwSDUzvJ7 My intention once I get it off is to take it apart, inspect it for damage and if there's not any, replace the o-rings and try again. If there is damage, I will buy a new one.
Make damn sure you return your adjustments back to where they were! People get to turning stuff and it can get all screwed up. Springs can lose force over time but that is too large of an error IMO. Likely to be something broke or more obvious I would think. A simple Oring leaking would not pass that much oil to get pressure that low. Maybe missing entirely? Don't know but keep us updated.
Things just went extremely badly for me. I used the air gun to break loose the circuit relief valve. When it came out I was ready with a plug, but my plug has a long tapered point and it was too long to fit in the hole. My main control valve just dumped hydraulic fluid all over me and all over the ground. I had no knife to cut off the end and no buckets to catch the fluid. I drove up to my diesel tank storage area and got a couple buckets from by the diesel tank, then put that bucket under there and then drove up to the house and got a knife to cut the plug end off. When I tried to stick the plug end on, I hurt my shoulder I was pushing so hard. At least now the plug is in and it's not leaking anymore and I have a bucket under it. I kind of feel like just saying **** it all and move to Las Vegas and stay in hotel room and play small time poker for the rest of my life haha. Now I have to figure out what to do with my sweatshirt soaked in hydraulic oil. I have to figure out how to take apart the relief valve and decide whether it's still good or not. The problem might not even be this relief valve it could be the variable pressure compensating valve or something else And since I needed to use the air gun, I did it near the pump house where I have power. Now all that hydraulic oil is about 30 ft away from our well. Fortunately the well is 190 ft deep. Once I get this back on there, I will light a fire on that spot and see if I can burn some of it off the surface maybe or something. Then I will dig up the rest and carry it off somewhere.
I partially took apart the relief valve. I got stuck trying to remove the stop ring here... No idea how to do it. I tried unthreading the valve body and it didn't budge. See here where I tried to put wrenches on it: I am guessing it won't unthread because the stop ring has to be removed first? Below is the manual's instructions - Note the disassembly instructions say step 1:"Remove cap and gasket" step 2: "Remove parts C-U".... aka take everything else apart without further instructions haha. Any ideas?
And here is the complete video of me disassembling it if you want to try to see different angles... It is long though and things aren't always visible: https://photos.app.goo.gl/kd48yTRiYoZ6Bupe6
I am going to try this method on the stop ring tomorrow - https://www.engineering.com/story/what-you-need-to-know-about-spiral-retaining-rings
Sounds like a good mess! I hope you have some confidence in your direction. It might have been good to verify other functions such as full pump stroke and full spool movement via pilot pressure to the spool, etc. But its apart now so see what you can find in that valve but take it apart very carefully or consider complete replacement of that valve. Remember what I said about a regeneration valve, which is just a short circuit between rod and piston end.
I don't have much confidence in my direction, but I am committed / stuck at the moment! I did manage to get the snap ring off, it was a pain. Now I'm a little stumped as to how to get the seat off so I can inspect the inside. The part is letter J in the attached diagram and I attached a picture of it too. I used a piece of flat metal to try unthreading it. It does twist around and around and came up a tiny bit... But when pressure is applied it goes back in. So I don't think it is threaded, maybe just friction fit or something? I tried screwing it quite a bit, so I don't think it's threaded. I tried pulling it out with pliers and prying it with a screwdriver, but no luck as the gap is tiny. I tried pushing it from the inside but there is just a valve with a spring and it doesn't push out. I definitely have to get it apart as I accidentally dropped it in the sand while removing it and I found a few bits of sand, or possibly damaged metal or plastic while disassembling it so far. I want to be sure it is all okay and cleaned out. I am pretty nervous about getting it back together as I called Pape to see what a replacement goes for... $600! I am worried about buying a Chinese replacement as I tried that for the ignition and the ignition part failed right months later and cost me a lot of money in mechanic fees tracing it back. And I am under a fairly urgent timeline... I installed 800' of water pipe and then decided to pull this thing off to work on it thinking it would be quick and easy! Now the first freeze is approaching and I have to get the trench filled beforehand... Oops.
Just work methodically. Do it in haste and you risk damage. Those are finely machined parts so one bit of sand can cause binding. Could try diesel and compressed air to rinse. Per the instructions, it should not be a big issue but that could also be the source of your problems. Just not sure!
Thank you, using the air works in combination with a metal ground stake worked to pop it out! Everything looked fine to me in there. I replaced a couple of o-rings, but I'm going to leave all the plastic ones in the pre-built gaskets alone. My plan is to go out and pull one more pressure relief valve off and put this one in its place and put the other one where this one was. I did not measure the length of the adjustment screw prior to taking it off, so I have it all the way backed off to start with. I will adjust it inwards till the new function is at the correct pressure.
I noticed most of the cycle times you posted are on the slow side. Have you checked the pump angle sensor voltage setting. It is adjustable . It could be a solution to the weak boom down issue. The procedure and the spec is in the manual. It should be adjusted to the high end of spec.
Ok, so I swapped the bucket dump relief valve to the boom down relief valve spot. I moved the boom down relief valve that I disassembled and reassembled to the now vacant spot for bucket dump. I tested the machine and all of its functions except for propel and nothing leaked or failed. I did see that bucket dump now maxed out at 2000 PSI. I had left the adjustment screw pretty open is I couldn't remember what level it was at. I just went under the machine and tighten that screw by at least a turn and a half which should be roughly 3,000 PSI. I'm going to try and operate it again now and if bucket dump still maxes out at 2,000 PSI even when pushing against the stop and then I guess that that pressure relief valve I assembled and disassembled has failed in some way that I could not see. Well I am now getting 2900 psi from bucket dump. Doesn't guarantee that the relief valve is now good because the issue only occurred once the machine was fully warmed up. The manual wants me to have bucket dump at 5475 psi, higher than any other function. That boggles my mind... Why have the smallest function have the highest psi? Anyways, I will try to further adjust it upwards. Ok, I adjusted the bucket dump pressure relief valve (the one that I disassembled and reassembled from the boom down spot). I am now getting 5400 psi against the stop. Now I am going to test run it and get the machine good and hot. Looks like I ran out of daylight to test the machine, I'll try to test it tomorrow probably.
That's what you want to see! A good baseline test, then see if that holds. Honestly wondering if you have some cracks in some springs or possibly the spring has lost some temper due to heating. Seems like you are on the hunt for now. A relief should not change hot or cold. I mean it would 'technically', but would be minor. Not several ksi.
Sooo.... I was using the excavator to fill in the trench and everything was going well. I drove around a sand pile and heard really loud clanking sounds coming from the tracks. I got out and looked around and everything looked fine. So I drove a little further and did a full check. Behind me, I saw a huge bolt with a washer on it... 1" wide and 10.5" long. I looked around and eventually figured out that it went to my counterweight. Both bolts on one side of the counterweight have fallen off and the counterweight started to slide off a bit on that side. You can see it here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/MxJBdULtfai8J2467 The counterweight weights 5,200 pounds and each of the 4 giant bolts holding it on are supposed to be torqued to 800 ft lbs... The strange thing is that I haven't hit anything with the counterweight as far as I am aware. The bolt appears to be fully intact, it just worked its way loose and fell out. I have a little tractor, but that won't come remotely close to helping with the counterweight. I could use my f450 to try to push it back on somehow maybe. I have a friends stepdad with a crane truck who used to be a heavy equipment mechanic, but he hasn't had time to help lately. Not sure what to do, but I still have to get this trench backfilled before the first freeze here... At least the relief valves seem okay. I didn't have much driving time though, so we'll see once I get the counterweight figured out.
I went on a wild goose chase in Tacoma WA yesterday looking for these bolts (M27 hex head 250 mm long 3.0). Tacoma screw didn't have it, nor did the six others I called. I will order it online probably. My friends dad who was a heavy equipment mechanic, now retired, very generously lent me his $3,000 1" 6' long snap on torque wrench that goes up to 1,000 ft lbs. As I still have two bolts left on one side, I am thinking of backing the weight into a tree to get it back in position, then take one bolt off and put it on the other side. Then just operate it real gently until the new ones come in a few days. The risk is that if something went wrong or a bolt sheared, the counterweight could swing out or shear a second one too. Not likely to happen...
Ok, so big updates and questions: Weak boom issue: The boom now remains strong when the machine is fully heated up. I had swapped the circuit relief valves between the boom down function and the bucket dump function. Now the bucket dump function is weak. Buying a new one from Pape will cost $600. I have already disassembled and assembled it and it's not see anything broken, so I am guessing this may be due to a weak spring? I also saw a spot that may be missing an o ring or something when I was putting it together. Any advice here? Should I buy a cheap Chinese relief valve? Try to buy replacement springs- does anyone know how to find the original manufacturer of this valve to get data and spec and parts? Here is a photo of the spot that looked like it had a strangely large gap next to an o ring and a white plastic ring: Video of operation: https://photos.app.goo.gl/CdKqkVziJQAYntXW6 Counterweight issue: my best friend's heavy equipment stepfather was super generous and lent me his $3,000 1" snap on torque wrench, so I was able to move one of the two remaining bolts from the right to the left side and properly torque both to 800 foot pounds. I ordered four new bolts and will replace all four when they arrive. Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NMe2oNsf3AcN2r8r5 Overheating: shortly after my demonstration of the bucket dump relieve valve issue now, I measured temperatures at the pump of 170 F and quite hot temps elsewhere. Is this likely just the failed pressure valve or should I be looking at other areas? Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/XT9X3G4gYfN9U2di8 Rusted through metal plate under the battery: check out this ugly rusted through plate under the batteries. I don't have any welding equipment and don't know how to weld yet. I do want to learn but space is low currently for me in my garage. What should I do for a quick but effective fix here?
I ran the machine for a couple of hours tonight filling in my trench. I really don't like that the control valve temperature reached 175. I just bought this Chinese valve, hopefully it works okay. It arrives Tuesday. https://a.co/d/0Luarkq
I ordered a replacement valve on Amazon but it looks slightly different than the one I had. See the two attached photos, the yellow one is the original, the grey is the new one. It looks like the circles / holes are lower on the new one, but it could be because the original failed?
Good news! Ebay refused to refund my payment to the scammy Dr Ex seller who never delivered, but Paypal did refund the payment!
What did I miss? Did you test that valve? Valve was junk? If you don't feel good with a part like that, do NOT use it! The consequences are huge! I think I might have fought harder to repair the old valve. Maybe someone does that? Springs have spring rates. They are progressive and very easy to test and determine. I've seen many springs with micro cracks, like valve springs. When a spring test is run, they fail it. Anywho,
@ I put the new valve on and took the old valve off - I would like to find someone to repair it or find specs for it so I can repair it myself. Any recommendations?
@fastline @mg2361 @excavator @Jason Klassen @Diesel Dave plus Matt from the Pacific Northwest Hillbilly youtube channel - Thank you all so much for helping a stranger out on the internet! I have fixed the weak boom down issue now. The root of the problem was a failed circuit relief valve. I swapped it from the boom down function to the bucket dump function and the problem followed it over there. Today, I replaced the faulty circuit relief valve with a new one and it now works perfectly. I operated it for an hour and got the machine good and hot and the old weakness issue did not return. I will start a new thread soon for the next issues I want to work on: -Possible overheating? I ran the machine today with the new valve in place and the control valve got up to 160 and previously with the old valve I'd seen the pump running 10 degrees hotter than that at 170. -Fixing where the battery panel has rusted through - check out this ugly rusted through plate under the batteries. I don't have any welding equipment and don't know how to weld yet. I do want to learn but space is low currently for me in my garage. What should I do for a quick but effective fix here?
Sorry mg2361, a small correction if I may... 24 deg is the max pump angle. At idle with the control levers in neutral the pump angle should be 3-5 deg.
Oops! You are correct, I mis-wrote. Thanks for the correction !