Can anyone suggest the master break cylinder to marry to like type 20 or even 30 air can, by the stroke and mounting holes?! Not feeling like paying $1200 to CNH or Wagner. The original cluster shell is all rusted out and pitted! It’s on IH 530A payloader BTW, but it doesn’t matter as long it will do its job!
Can you use a standard reman semi truck brake pedal/ valve? e-6 or e-10? Do you have room for the air lines and such under the floor, or does it need to be up at the top of the pedal? https://www.ebay.com/p/Bendix-50065...MIxsC4vOLQ5AIVkMBkCh3p3w9nEAYYASABEgItdfD_BwE
If you have to mount under the dash, you could go to something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BENDIX-101...803250&hash=item23baba0fa7:g:OvAAAOSwXrBa39ei any good truck parts place is going to be the best/ cheapest source for air brake stuff. Not oem
One of these?
I already replaced both E-6s, finally I got air pressure! But breaks on this thing is hydraulic! And the whole system is air over hydraulic, so now I have a problem with what they call air-hydraulic cluster, basically it’s too expensive to replace with original parts! They heve what looks like type 20 or 25 pushing on master cylinder for other serial numbers, but the problem is the same - too expensive to buy it from OEM!
Thanks, I saw that! Still looking for something that I can put together my self hopefully less expensive. Although if I can get pets breakdown and model of that master cylinder it might help!
NAPA wants almost $2000 for those! They go on motorhomes! So you can make a killing on it!!!
This might be more reasonable! https://www.fayettedistribution.com/Trailer-Air-to-Hydraulic-Disc-Booster-Pump-1-600-p/6515-m.htm
https://www.fayettedistribution.com/Trailer-Air-to-Hydraulic-Disc-Booster-Pump-1-600-p/6515-m.htm I see it's rated a 1,600 psi so I'm thinking that might work. Do you have one of the originals? If you do some basic math with the diameter of the hydraulic master and the air cylinder diameter you should be able to get a close idea of the ratio of air to hydraulic pressure your original worked at.
Just a quick guess at some sizes: Say hydraulic cylinder is 1.5 inch that gives a 1.767 sq inch area Then take a 6 inch diameter air chamber that will give you 28.27 sq. inch area there. Divide the 28.27 sq. inch air by the 1.767 sq. inch hydraulic area and that give you within a hair of a 16:1 ratio. So if you are assuming a nice round working air pressure of 100 psi that would have you right at the 1,600 psi out put of the one you posted above. If any of my math is off please anyone correct me! The only thing that may be worth thinking about is this repair is on a machine that will come under MSHA or OSHA there could be a liability point to think about.
Yes I do, it’s a piston style air actuator, yes I can do the math, for right now gust trying to find the master that would have the same bolt pattern as a break can. As cross crossing two might present som interference problems.
No! That’s a loader with forklift attachment running around local small shipyard, the only government people who is there is NOAA who use their services to launch their boat and do repairs on it! That thing didn’t have any breaks for more then a year now! Then one of the “gifted” workers took out some ladder and railing off of one of the yachts with it, then owner finally got scared and decided to fix the breaks just in case. But still don’t want to shell out money for full price from OEM!
Any chance of a picture or two of the original, might spur an idea?
Rigging up something on your own places full responsibility on YOU if something were to happen later. You should tell the owner of the machine that he needs to just bite the bullet and fix it right.
That is kind of why I asked about MSHA or OSHA. If I was going to do this for a machine I was using around the yard at home I would have no trouble doing some things. Or if I was fixing something for the company where I worked maybe that would be not too bad. But if I was fixing something for Joe's Boat launch as a private contractor I might have second thoughts. Not sure I would want to deal with the problems that might arise if the forks went through the side of some lawyers yacht!
You guys might be right, but on the other hand working breaks would be better then no breaks at all. And I just try to copy something they already have on the same model but different serial numbers machine.
Been looking through catalog of parts and I see that some of these use DOT3 and some mineral oil! Can someone tell me what used in IH 530A payloader?! And is it the matter of seals material or system performance. I’m having the issue with residual check valve spewing break fluid back to reservoir! Ran out of break fluid, got frustrated and filled with motor oil just to test it! Looks like it got better!
Brake fluid and hydraulic oil are not compatible. The seals are the issue and I can't recall which the 530 used. I seem to remember the cap of the reservoir would have the type of fluid formed into the cap. We had Wagner log stackers that generally used hydraulic oil, but a couple of customers wanted to use brake fluid. It was a mess to have to go through rebuilding the wheel cylinders on L90 and L120 machines when they used the wrong fluid.