looking at reding the floor on a 308 bucket was think of useing t1 steel. would that work and do know an place that would roll it and ship it to me what is a goo cutting edge with shanks for the bucket to i was going to use 1/4 wear bar on the bottom ar450
Rather than use T1 which is notoriously difficult to roll you could substitute Hardox 400 or 450. That's what we used to have rolled to replace floors in excavator buckets.
I agree, Hardox or Formalloy would be better. In my youth we used a lot of T1 and I still love it, but bends were always done as a series of bumps on a press brake, and you have to form it across the rolling direction to avoid stress cracks. It's tough, but not really all that abrasion resistant. CAT, Deere, etc., and some aftermarket companies sell precut cutting edges and shanks to weld on, lots of choices.
i also have to redo a snow bucket would u us ar for that or just mild steel
I would use A656-50 or better. Or Domex. Maybe AR or Hardox on the flat bottom wear strips. AR is brittle and usually a pain to weld without cracking, the Hardox/Formalloy type metals are still abrasion resistant but will flex and bend without cracking usually.
You have the old bucket so you don't have to guess. Figure out roughly what kind of steel it is, and how it failed, then go from there. Did it rust out, wear out, crack apart?
was welding on the bucket and burned up the welder. turn out that it was only rated for a 170amp 100% duty. i have it on a truck and looking for something to replace it with. i have a problem with gas that it might sit for a long time before i use a full tank of fuel. wast looking at a trailblazer 325 and using tru fuel but at 20$ a gallon that would add up quick the looking at the miller pipe pro 350 with a cat engine lincon ranger 305 propane
having to redo the floor on a 315 bucket was going to do 1/2in qt plus floor with 5/8 wear bar. I was using rebar on the corners of the buckets and it wear too fast. i found chocky bars and tuff tiles that i can use on the bottom corner and tuff tiles on the side of the bucket. or is there a better way. i was also going to use tuff tile in between the teeth instead of hard facing what can be done on the leading edge of the bucket that last longer then rebar
this is the progress so far on the 315 bucket have to finish welding it and add the teeth
That's real nice looking work. How does it compare in cost to the price of a new or used bucket?
we just bought a new bucket for 10k wore though it in 3 months. so far into that bucket i have 3500$ of material plus 2 day of my time so far
I looked into rebuilding buckets for people a few years back. Found out people around here wouldn't pay for it. We have three or four major attachment builders within 300 miles selling buckets pretty cheap compared to other regions of the country. The wait time also has a big influence. Why wait for three to five days for your bucket to be rebuilt when you can have a new one tomorrow.
Was wonder if anyone has ever done wear bar on the inside of a bucket
progress so far
Iv put liners in side buckets. Never put bars. Always full sheet liner in the wear area.
shadow2, Bucket Inner Wear Protection Bars? Yep, even segments if the bucket floor is thin or bent. Example photo 1ea of 4ea Komatsu PC800 rental machines, worn out edge-tooth support lip (serve scalloping) and floor (worn, bent due to abrasion)...usage of hard-facing to stick material so wear is eliminated via dirt-on-dirt contact and AR400 wear plates, scrap cutting edges...temp until replacement edge support and floor were available for Sunday replacement...24hr fix it window, i.e. done before 6:30am Monday