I'm redoing all running, flood and signal lights to LED, which require a specifically-for-LED flasher. Got a generic one with no part number or model number but 5 male prongs marked... + - L L1 I ...but no wiring diagram on it or with it. The vehicle wiring has a 3-wire UNACCOUNTED pigtail which "I" had marked "Emergency Flash" but I can't for the life of me remember ever disconnecting them form anything nor ever having removed a flasher. These 3 wires are 537-gn 536-wh 200-bk I can't find any "flasher" on the wiring diagram but the wire list says #536 goes from Hzrd-sw to Turn-sw (which is true) and that #537 goes from Turn-sw to "flasher" (but I can find no flasher on the diagram or in the by now almost empty parts bin). And even if I were to find it either on the diagram or in real life, how do I use a 5-prong LED-flasher for a 3-wire replacement? Can anyone help moe out with this? Something in the back of my mind says I took out a cylindrical approx 1.25"x3.5" flasher form under the sidesaddle inst-cluster but that could be old memories from who knows what equipmenty I know I might have goofed here, no need to rub it in if true, but it's the last item on an electrical to-do list that had more bugs than an anthill. TIA
For a 7BC 426, the flasher is number 13
Thanks, so I guess I must have removed it even though I can't find it. Part # 7T-4848 is what I need a 3-pin LED-equivalent for and then it doesn't matter if I can't locate it on the wiring diagram either.
What's your machine Serial Number and what electrical schematic are you using.? Just on the off-chance that I can locate something that might work better.
I find it easier to install a ballast resistor near the light. Flasher units aren't really overburdened with intelligence and it's fairly easy to fool them into thinking they're dealing with an incandescent bulb.
It's the one in my service manual bought used on-line, the only id on it is in the lower right corner and it's a date: 20-May-87. The serial # is 7BC01181 (a 1987), those were the first series made entirely in England, including a Perkins engine and a huge Ford axle. The parts exploded-view that _heymccall_ linked-in isn't in "my" parts book either (HEBP1569-01). Bit, I did rip out the turn-signal switch to see what wires are on it and THAT is more or less as-per wiring diagram, just 4 wires with 2 crossed locally. Meanwhile I've found out that my 5-pin LED-flasher is wrong here, so I've ordered a 3-pin LED-flasher. If that works out I won't really need to know the wiring story; worst comes to worst I can 'ring' out the 3 flasher wires and try to pinpoint where they actually come from ))
LED flashers go for around $10-20 ...plus, since it looks like I really misplaced the old flasher I'd have to buy anew anyway.
I find it hard to believe the flasher isn't in your book. It's in "battery & wiring".
The flasher unit is shown on this schematic which is slightly later (Nov-87) than the one you have. Grid C-9 on Page 2, same Part Number 7T4848 as HMC posted previousl.
You're right, I was looking in the Operator-Platform chapter.
After heymccall, that's the second hit in as many days; tunnel-vision i.e. losing the ability to think (or even read) outside the box is a sure sign of fatigue. I sure need a break but none is coming :-( More than just the above figurative box, the one you pointed me to is right there on my diagram also. I just had to read under it to realise that it's not a BAT lamp but a flasher. I will ask my bartender to say a mass for your souls. -- Few people really understand why the hindlick maneuver just plain works.
Job's done, got me LED turn lights with an 3-WIRE LED-Flasher, all connected and working. It's actually a hybrid system because the instrument panel annunciator module by the steering wheel uses incandescent bulbs for the left/right arrows. One of these is burned-out and even though it's pretty weak the difference is enough to slow the flash interval to serve as an alert. I got the best of both worlds There's only one snag, no garage around here careries ANY "prehistoric" (their words) stuff like this anymore. The all-metal sockets are ALL corroded beyond recognition and the ground lugs just fall off of them as soon as I touch them. So I need 5 sockets and a dozen or so bulbs, I thinlk I'll use the more powerful (elongated) bulb all around. HeavyEquipmentForums What are these called by those who might still carry them on the internet? (I couldn't get the image thumbnail inline as the button to do so never showed)
Not sure what size....I'm guessing for a "53" bulb Type "53 bulb socket" into your googalator and view images.
I googled but no cigar, the closest I found was a 2-wire socket with ground lug or a single-wire one witrhout a lug which I would've had to mod myself. So I figured I can do as well without buying anything. Lots of corrosion but only 2 ground lugs 'fell' off almost by themselves, a bit of sandblasting and 'banding' to solder ground wires to the steel sockets did the job. I have 4 images uploaded but only a delete button with each, can't link them inline
Not sure if this is for a 53 bulb.
Yesterday I went to 2 NAPA stores, 2 other auto-parts stores, my most well stocked garage mechanic, my heavy-equipmnt mechanic (closed) and one other place (forget which, but 7 in all). I also spent half an hour on the net finding nothing of the sort. Now the job is done, I've ordered some much brighter LED bulbs and also have new standard bulbs on hand.
https://www.standardbrand.com/media/1514/st11211-illustrated-connector-guide.pdf Lots of bulb sockets if you Google around. Search for automotive bulb sockets. The problem with modern parts stores is they have no clue how to look anything up unless you know year make and model. Trying to match something up is near impossible with the current crop of electronic catalogs and morons working the counter. It appears NAPA has a bulb to socket catalog, page 31. https://www.smpbuyersguide.com/echlin/Connectors-Pigtails-and-Sockets-Cross-Reference/31/