hey guys I am new to this board and I am Kurt. I own 3 pieces of equiptment 1 of is this stump grinder. Recently it the hydrolic cylinders started leaking. I have been able to remove 4 of the 5 cylinders. I cannot for the life of me get the last 1 out of the longest cylinder. It sits below under the engine. All have had cotter pins in them that i removed and was able to pound the old out.. Not this 1.. I have welded a nut onto the frame and tried to push it out the other side but ends up bending the 3/4 bolt and then my welds break. I have tried everyway i can think of and have not found anything online to help. thanks kurt
I can't see exactly what's going on with the cylinder, but that's not too important. That's a common problem to run into where a pin through the end of a hydraulic cylinder won't come out. It could be bent, or it could be worn so it hangs up, or it could just be frozen tight. Did it move at all before welding the nut on? Several ways to go about it depending on what you feel like. Drill the pin out. Saw through the pin between the ears and the cylinder, then push the three pieces out one at a time. Drill a starter hole through the pin and weld it back up to shrink the pin, or blow it out with a cutting torch. Use a proprietary piercing tool or oxygen lance. Brute force with a hydraulic jack, sledge hammer, slide hammer, larger threaded rod. Sometimes you can rebuild the cylinder in place also, just one end loose... Tell me if it moved at all, and exactly what you've tried so far.
I have tried the sledge hammer method. It has not budged any at all. I was thinking out trying a piece of 304 stainless rod, because it seems like everything i am hitting into it just bends.. I did apply heat but only with a B tank. I have a set a set if torches.
SS would be my last choice. Go to a scrap yard and find an axle, or hydraulic cylinder rod. If you have a helper, you could make up a driver pin about the same diameter of the pin you're trying to remove and put a handle on it long enough to keep the helper out of the way of the sledge hammer. If you've beat on it already and it didn't move yet, it might be hopelessly deformed. If you have room on each side of the cylinder then cutting the pin with a sawzall between the ears and the cylinder would be an easy way to get it out. Or drill a pilot hole through the pin and blow the hole bigger with the torch, you don't have to blow the hole that big, the pin will heat enough to deform and shrink as it cools and probably tap right out, plus you can always hit it with the torch again if it is still tight.
You should call the Carlton factory and ask them how to best do it. I had several Carlton machines, and any time I had a problem I could not solve, I would call and talk to one of their guys in service. A couple of times, they even put me in contact with guys out on the line building the machines. Give them a call and see if they can help you. Jeff
Thanks guy for the reply. I truly appreciate all the feedback. I think I am gonna try to drill the pilot hole and torch method. Would the b tank get hot enough or oxygen and acetylene
I assumed you meant a cutting torch, an acetylene brazing torch won't do it. Call them like mowingman said, or try the sawzall. Does the cylinder move side to side enough to get the blade in there without damaging the cylinder too much?
i think i am gonna just have to get it about 2 feet off the ground and then i might be able to get the sawzaw through it. it has about 1 blades worth but the stoke length is very short. a multitool for cutting door jams would be perfect just dont think the metal cutting blades could get through the steel.
thanks for the help. i got it cut off.