Hey guys, just wwant to say this forum is VERY helpful. I have been havin a small(large) issue with these carrier seals. we had a mechanic(?) in our shop for a short time and he did these carrier seals first. they leaked right away and thats when I got thrown into the mix. My first go around I changed the seals, put back together and in no time the seals started leaking again. So tear apart again and read through the manual. Found the previous guy put the motor shafts in upside down. I put it all back together according to manual, filled motors with oil, and fired er up. Well guess what, it started leaking again. I am really getting frustrated with this thing. Any ideas suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.
Forgive me, but what are carrier seals? Are you saying drive motors, hub seals or drive pump seals? Many times if you have a repeating seal failure inspect the shaft surface that it seals. Might be a grove and need a speedy seal replacement. Or you could have shaft bearings going bad causing the shaft to move more then the seal can keep up with.
your drive motor bolts up to the carrier which in turn houses 2 seals. the shafts seem fine and the bearings are tight. When I pulled this apart before the seals looked like they have been hammered into each other.
if you are continually blowing carrier seals, and filling the chaincase with oil, you probably have a couple of problems. seals improperly installed, bad carrier bearings, *** up shaft sealing area shim pack not correct plugged case drain leaking motor manifold seals :drinkup
How do you replace the carrier seals? Just drained the chain case I got two seals ready but just would like to know the steps in which they are installed
how did u take the shaft out to install the seals?
you need to remove the carriers from the machine
the machine is an S330 in order to take out the "carrier" only the left side is leaking, the steps are? take the center cover plates off and loosen the 1 1/2in bolt on the front left axle and hit the hub off with a sledge? then will that give the chain slack to come off of the sprocket shaft? if u know the procedure it would be really helpful to get that information from you crewchief Thanks again in advance
you need to remove the front and center chaincase covers, loosen but dont remove the outer hub bolt from the hub. i use a porta power, or bottle jack, to put pressure on the hub, and "shock" the hub with a sledgehammer. the end of the axle is tapered ad keyed to the hub, and it will go flaying across the shop if you dont lave the bolt in once it's loose, leave it on, and from the inside of the chaincase, remove the sprocket bolt. factory torque on the sprocket bolt is in the area of 400 ft/lbs with loc-tite. you're gonna need to heat the hex of the bolt and let the heat soak into the bolt to loosen the loc-tite typically once the sprocket bolt is loose it will spin out by hand. it's gonna hit the other side sprocket bolt, i keep turning the hub with a prybar, it will slowly push the axle out part way. grab your trusty sledgehammer and persuade it out the rest of the way. once the get the bolts out of the carrier from the inside of the chaincase (they are also loc-tited from the factory) pull the slack out of the front chain and slide the carrier to the rear in the hole, then "walk off" the chains from the carrier shaft. we replace the bearings when we reseal a carrier. there are 2 seals, both the same part # that are in the middle of the carrier, they are installed BACK TO BACK so the spring side of one seal faces the chaincase, and the other faces the motor. for a very short time (in recent production carriers) bobcat did away with the double seals and went to a single seal. they also "did away" with the double seals as replacement parts, but since then discovered the error of their ways. DO NOT INSTALL THE SINGLE SEAL IN YOUR CARRIERS! they will leak in a very short time if the double seals arent installed correctly you'll be pulling it back apart VERY soon for leaking seals. aint this fun?
you are the man crewchief! everything you said made it very clear on what to do....i was going in blind couldnt break that 400ft loc-tited bolt on my own now i know why lol.good tip 4 that hub to keep the bolts on i also had those off...and the next steps are very doable...do i need to get new axle seals? gonna knockthat hub off tonight and heat up that bolt tonight
You will need an outer axle seal. It get destroyed when removing the axle