I bought a 1981 Case 1816B skid steer. The motor runs great, carriage and bucket cylinders operate just fine. The issue I discovered after driving it awhile is in the steering. It drives "straight" forward and reverse just fine, but any degree of turning must be done gingerly. The machine makes terrible popping sounds while it jerks into a turn. I can't jam to controls to the stops to spin in the same spot like it should. Also, one time while I was using it, the machine start to buck during a turn, bouncing diagonally back and forth. The violence of the motion was growing by the second, when I killed the main power cut-off switch to the skid steer. This stopped the action, but had it gone on a few seconds more, it would have either thrown me out of the loader or pitched over on its side. What components should I look at first? I was think #1 the Steering Control Valve and #2 the Steering Displacement Pump. Has anyone run into this type of a problem before, and can I get some guidance? Thanks, Jeff
I'd check the chains, could be slipping if too loose. Steve
Thanks Steve, I will check the chains also. Having never owned a skid steer before, I didn't realize that there is only one Steering Displacement Pump per side, and that the second set of wheels are tied together with chains. Is this a case where the chains can be re-tentioned, or is that a replacement scenario?
Yes, on most, checking the tension is part of periodic maintenance and after a while the chains should be adjusted. On a unit used for home use, once it's adjusted, you probably could go years (??) till it needs adjusting again...of course, depends on how much and how aggressively the machine gets used. I don't know the specific process on an 1816, but on other Case skid loaders of the era, the process involved supporting the skid steer on jackstands, removing the tires, removing an inspection plate/s and checking the chain tension and inspecting the sprockets (for sharp and worn edges). Then adjust the tension as needed according to the manual. On larger machines (maybe yours too), it involved loosening the wheel hubs and turning an adjusment bolt to move the hub a little, then re-tighten and check tension. It is also possible the chain and sprockets are really rusty because previous owners didn't drain and replace the chain case oil, and you could have a real mess on your hands and the chains could need to be replaced. It's not likely, but possible. Chains aren't that expensive and there are aftermarket solutions available. Moisture 'can' build up in these chain cases from the units sitting outside and leaking in, or, even with condensation over the years and a lot of guys don't change and replace the oil in the cases. I drained mine a few weeks ago and one side was really awful and milky looking and I never leave it uncovered. The other side was pretty regular. Not sure why, but no damage was done fortunately. My dad has a buddy who's skid loader will 'freeze' up and not move every winter if he leaves it sit outside. Amazingly, he continues to use it this way and hasn't drained the oil in years!! Since this skid steer is new to you, and it's got some years on it, it would be a real good idea to pick up a used service manual off ebay (print or CD) and give it a complete look-over and become familiar with the maintenance your unit should have. This forum has had a number of sad stories from guys who didn't know to check a few things, or didn't know certain grease zerks existed which eventually led to very expensive failures. Some key things to do: - Drain the oil out of the chain cases (both sides) when you go to check the chain case oil. If it looks good, then re-fill, but if it looks really bad, a lot of guys will flush with diesel or some solvent. Case has a proceedure for this in their manual. - Find all the grease zerks on your skid, especially the ones by the axle bearings that are often overlooked and not greased. Not sure if your skid has any universal joints to the pump, but look over whatever coupler there is and make sure it's ok. - Drain and put in new drive motor (the hydraulic motors that drive the wheel chains) lube. Mine had gear lube in it. Some take 10-30. There is a process to flush these also if they need it. Don't let these run low!! - Check/drain the other obvious fluids like engine oil and coolant ....replace any radiator hoses, belts you thing are suspect. Evaluate the hydraulic fluid. It might need to be completely changed. Case has a HTO (anti-foaming) hydraulic fluid additive that the larger machines require ...not sure if it was required on the 1816 or not, but check it out and use as needed. - Resolve any leaks and replace suspect hoses, **especially** any fuel hoses, because with the engine behind you, a fire could break out and you might not know about it until too late!! - Make sure the safety gear works. A lot of the case units had a locking pin interlocked with the safety levers which fit into holes in the drive chain sprocket. That prevents the machine from moving forward and back when the safety levers are up. After time (usually abuse) these pins become rounded at the front and don't stay locked in. This is an important safety device that could mean the difference between life and death because guys get killed or severely maimed getting in/out of their beloved machine if they accidentally hit a side lever or hook it onto their pants (and the skid loader 'darts' while the skid is running and runs over them). It would be a very good idea to make sure all the safety parts are in good working order ...and better yet to shut the machine off when entering/exiting, although in real life this is often, admittedly, difficult to practice. When you are checking the drive chains you should be able to see the locking pins ....if that's what your unit uses. Adjust and/replace if needed. Inspect the holes too to make sure their not boogered up too bad. The right way to engage the locking mechanism is to lift the safety bar/s, then make sure the pins are engaged in their holes by slowly moving the machine back/fourth until you hear the pins go 'click' which tells you they've entered the holes. I usually move the sticks a little to make sure they are truly engaged and the machine won't move. Once you know they are engaged, then you can shut the unit down, remove the seat belt and get out. When you get back in the machine, put the seat belt on, lower the restraining bars, then gently move the sticks and you'll hear the pins 'click' again as they come out of their respective locking holes. Guys who are in a hurry tear up the pins and holes and they become a mess and might not hold. Again, I'm not even sure your machine uses pins....but if it does, check them out or whatever safety gear it has. Also make sure to use your seat belt whenever operating. - Whatever else the manual says. These are neat little machines that can fit into small areas and do a lot of work for their size. Once you've done the maintenance, you'll know a lot more about your machine and have peace of mind that it'll work when you need it. Good luck..
Great Feedback! The first week I got this, I went through the basics. Changed the oil & filter, replaced the hydraulic fluid (which ironically call for 10W-40 in both). I replaced the oil cooling lines, air filter, and new battery/cables/solenoid. The exhaust manifold on the engine was jacked up too; stripped threads in the bolt holes on either side of the exhaust pipe. It took tapping the holes a little deeper and 3 stacked manifold gaskets to fix the exhaust leak. The previous owner/clown had tried running NPT pipe thread into the head, which also got stripped. It needs a new OH160 head if I can find one, but for now it doesn't leak. You definitely need to run an exhaust also! Even with everything sealed up, that sucker is loud. I found myself wearing hearing protection it's so loud. The last thing that I had to do is replace the bucket-curl hydraulic cylinders. Of course they aren't made anymore! I bought seal kits extremely cheap on ebay, but the aluminum cylinder caps were shreaded from someone using a pipe wrench on them in the past. So, I had to buy something close, and mill the mounting tubes to be a shorter length on one end. I have a feeling custom machined parts are going to be a reoccurring theme with this skid steer. I was leaning towards the control valving being the issue because to me it acts like o-ring blow-by, but it sounds like both of you think the chains should be my first inspection point.
Ok, it sounds like you are on top of things (maintenance-wise). Chains is just a starting point to check, it's cheap and easy to do. You said it makes a 'popping' sound and perhaps it *could* be the chains slipping on the sprockets. I've never personally experienced it. There are a lot of skid loader Youtube videos, maybe there's something on there similar to what you're experiencing. Hope you get her all tuned up! I would think there could be a lot of good internet info on 1816's.
I had one of these and they jump around when you try to turn, they are light and short so lots of wheel hop. These have a dry chain which is easy to get to but a tight area from the foot plate. On the one I had the axle stubs were a problem. The key ways wore out and broke because the keys that were used were too short. The shafts can be welded up and ways re-cut. Use a long key or cut your own to fit. I have a service manual scanned and you can download it if you want. http://www.mediafire.com/view/cm0gb461c329w5q