Tmd20 with stanadyn injection pump. Starts very easy and runs for about 3 seconds and stalls. Will start right back up and do the same thing.. Any ideas would be great
Fuel supply is blocked, or fuel return is blocked, or electrical issue or internal pump issue. Either hook the fuel suction up to a temporary tank and see if it runs, or remove the return fitting on the injection pump and see if it runs (this will leak diesel).
I did pull the return line and it didn't change. How much fuel should bleed back to the tank. It was just trickling out, don't know if that is normal.
I'm not the expert on these, but that sounds OK to me. The fitting itself plugs up, and that can indicate bad things in the pump. Did you remove the line, or take the "adapter" off of the pump? Is there a camshaft driven transfer pump with a priming lever on that fuel system? You can use that lever to tell if the pump is sucking a vacuum, or pumping air, or all pumped up correctly.
The engine is comming under load in my mind, most probable cause hydraulic pump/valve issue, I dont know what an 1835 is but I would be checking levers and controls both hand and foot for somthing in the wrong poition, Aux' lines are a common issue? tctractors
An 1835 is a standard American skid steer, hydrostatic drive and a gear pump to run the loader(?) If the engine is coming under load, then you should see smoke in the exhaust, probably black. If there's no smoke or just a little white smoke, then look at why it's not getting fuel.
VERY COMMON MISTAKE when diagnosing that fuel system... MOST PEOPLE will remove the return line and forget about the fitting that it screws on to.. THE FITTING HAS THE CHECKBALL IN IT... REMOVE the entire fitting from the top cover.. and see what happens.. Some equipment have shut down devices that will cut power to the injection pumps electric solenoid when theres a problem, low oil, hi temp.. Inorder to bypass them, just run a hot wire from the battery to the hot wire on the solenoid on the inj. pump, if equipped..
In the U.K. we have things like this floating about, when they start and run for a few seconds then stop quickly, its usualy a hydraulic pump loading up, this makes no black smoke as the engine hardy has time to "Get Lit Up" the common thing is the owner/whoever think its a fuel pump fault and waste coins in that direction, so be warned check all controls and hydraulic taps before you get to carried away, the engine is willing to start constantly this might be a big clue, for them that like clues. tctractors
I don't know how the electrical system works on this particular machine, but like TC says, if it starts EVERYTIME you try it, chances are it's not actual fuel itself being the problem, maybe mechanism of delivery. My first guess would be solenoid; you should have a manual so you know WTH you're doing. Also, have you tried starting it with the throttle opened up a ways? Maybe if you can get some rpms going it'll stay running if it is hydraulic?
Check this out: HeavyEquipmentForums Pretty sure this could be helpful.
I have bypassed the solenoid and it's the same result.. How would I troubleshoot the hydraulics. Voltmeter only shows 5 volts to the filter, not sure if that's normal... I also can't seem to get all the site out of the return lines like I could before... Any thoughts?
I have bypassed the solenoid and it's the same result.. How would I troubleshoot the hydraulics. Voltmeter only shows 5 volts to the filter, not sure if that's normal... I also can't seem to get all the air out of the return lines like I could before... Any thoughts?
Jingle, The Pump Guy is right if this has the 188 engine in it. Remove the fitting the return line screws into on top of the injection pump. There is a little glass check valve inside that gets plugged from rubber gaskets in the pump which breakdown over time and prevent fuel from being pumped. Simple fix, clean out the debris or take a small punch and breakout the glass ball to prevent it from re-occuring.
From other threads, the flex ring will eventually come apart completely and the engine will run away at that point... To see if the hydraulics are stalling it, I'd try to start the machine while operating the hydraulics (and/or drive?) or operate right away after starting. If the engine is warm (block heater?) it shouldn't die from operating the hydraulics that soon. Did you check out Alfman's post #16 in the other thread, that would be the perfect explanation. You bypassed the solenoid electrically, was that one wire? If the solenoid is external you can remove the solenoid if you know how to shut it down without the solenoid.