Hello and Thanks for Any Advice: When I parked the loader, it would run and then cut off, then you could crank it back and it would run for a few mins. and cut off. I found out that the oil pressure was low making it do that so I filled it will oil. The air filter had gotten dirty and sucked a good bit of oil out of the engine and that's why the oil pressure dropped. That was corrected when I changed the air filters and filled it with oil. The oil pressure light does go out now when I spin the starter. I have bled the injectors 4-5 times and fuel does come out of each of the 3 injectors. It does not have any kind of bulb or pump to pressurize the system. All it has is the electric injector pump. I put a new Group 31 battery in it. I guess it could be the glow plugs or maybe the starter needs to turn the engine faster. Thanks Jdubya
I would recommend a compression test, to see what the compression is. Its good to know how it compares to factory specs. Once you get that out of the way, you will know if you have a big bill in the offing. You can take the GP's out to test them, and at the same time, give it a pressure test. Its just a good place to start. other things it could be are bad injectors, or a bad injector pump. others will chime in, who may have more experience, with your model. For reference, give the model of the engine, and any more info, about model, serial # etc...
Thanks DivDave.
It has the 3 cylinder Case Diesel Engine. It has the Case Emblem on the top of the engine. The CASE 1835C had Gas models too. I can get the numbers tomorrow.
The Engine is a TMD20 Continental like this one:
Make SURE you have voltage to the solenoid on top of the pump.. you should hear it click. Remove the fitting on top of the pump.. all the way down to the cover.. not just the hose or the adaptor.. but the entire fitting.. & try to start w/o the fitting inplace.. If that return fitting gets clogged it wont start.. it can be cleaned out.. Good luck.
Sounds good! Thanks for your advice. I will try those things first.
Anyone know what PSI the electric fuel pump has on my Case Uniloader 3 cylinder TMD-20 diesel? I am looking to buy a pump but need to know the PSI. Thanks
Do youe know what PSI the electric fuel pump has on my Case Uniloader 3 cylinder TMD-20 diesel? I am looking to buy a pump but need to know the PSI. Thanks
Here's the pump you want to get, I think its around 6 psi. This is a rotary pump the lasts years instead of months like the pulse type do. eBay item number: 252116604571
This is the one that looks like mine. But only a couple of places sell it and it is $169. Part # 1959813C1 (labeled #14 below)
thepumpguysc: Cleaned up everything and checked voltage. Found out fuel pump gets hot and stops pumping. Looking for a inexpensive replacement. Pump in photo above is $160 at Colemans but I can find universal pumps from $12.00 to $30.00 on Ebay. Trying to decide what fits in that small place without all the jury rigging. Std equip pump has hard pipe fittings on each end, one straight out and the other at 90%. Having a hard time finding a universal pump with the right angle 90% fitting on one end. Mountainlake recommended a rotary pump but I will have to do a lot of jury rigging in a tight spot to make that one work. Any other suggestions, hate to give $160 bucks for a small fuel pump.
ANY pump will work as long as its less than 10 psi.. all your doing is HELPING the fuel to get from the tank TO the injection pump.. ALOT of folks mount the ele. pump to a plate, THEN mount the plate to the tractor.. or you could use some metal " builders strapping" to mount it anywhere.. you know the flexable metal strips w/ all the holes in it?? MT. Lake has a good handle on the ROTARY lift pumps.. he's been there, done that.. listen to him for the pump selection.. You can change out your hard lines for rubber w/ just a couple of 2.00 fittings. OR use the hard lines to connect to your pump& filter assembly & cut the hard line in half & reconnect w/ rubber lines & hose clamps.. SOMETIMES you do what you have to do to keep running & save acouple of hundred bucks.. Let us know how you make out..
Thanks. I will follow MT.Lake's lead. Sounds good to me. I appreciate all the help from both you guys.
Thanks for your advice. I will go ahead with that cylinder that you suggested.
Those Carter pumps last a long time, make sure to keep the positive and negative wiring the right way as they will turn backwards. They are marked good. Steve
Ok Steve. I didn't think about the thing running backwards. Thanks a lot for your advice here. JdubyaM
Hello, I installed the new electric fuel pump and it pumps really well. Getting plenty of fuel to the injectors now. BUT still won't hit or start up. I had the starter rebuild so it would turn faster and a I bought a new heavy duty battery Group 31. But still won't fire up. It is smoking out the tail pipe when I spin the starter. Is there anything I can do to improve the compression so that I can get it started? Anything I can pour into the cylinders to maybe temporarily get compression up to get it to start up? It was running good when parked 2 years ago. Thanks!
Hello, I installed the new electric fuel pump and it pumps really well. Getting plenty of fuel to the injectors now. BUT still won't hit or start up. I had the starter rebuild so it would turn faster and a I bought a new heavy duty battery Group 31. But still won't fire up. It is smoking out the tail pipe when I spin the starter. Is there anything I can do to improve the compression so that I can get it started? Anything I can pour into the cylinders to maybe temporarily get compression up to get it to start up? It was running good when parked 2 years ago. Thanks!
Hello, I installed the new electric fuel pump and it pumps really well. Getting plenty of fuel to the injectors now. BUT still won't hit or start up. I had the starter rebuild so it would turn faster and a I bought a new heavy duty battery Group 31. But still won't fire up. It is smoking out the tail pipe when I spin the starter. Is there anything I can do to improve the compression so that I can get it started? Anything I can pour into the cylinders to maybe temporarily get compression up to get it to start up? It was running good when parked 2 years ago. Thanks!
Gave you checked the compression? Pretty easy to do, most of the time. Pull the GP's and install adapter to pressure gauge...
No I haven't checked it yet. I will need to buy a gauge. I am thinking the compression rings may be stuck and I was hoping to loosen them up with something. The blasted thing ran good when it stopped with plugged air filters. Thanks, JdubyaM
You could try dumping a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone, down the GP holes, and let that sit for a while, but didn't your first post mention that it had been low on oil, at some point?
Yes. When the air filter plugged, it cause a suction vacuum and it sucked a lot of oil out of the crankcase and the low oil pressure cut the engine off. After that, I changed air and fuel filters and electric pump and changed the oil. The engine was free at that point and is still free to turn.
The 50-50 mix WORKS!! I had a customer who had the same problem.. I went to his house & redid his pump for him.. put it back on & it wouldn't start.. did a compression test & it was about 100psi on all cylinders.. he said it cranked fine 6months ago.. I told him to dump ATF into the injector hole & let it sit a week & then crank the engine w/o the injectors to blow the remaining crap out.. he did and sent me a video of it starting & running after a week.. I don't know if he used 50-50 but I do know he used ATF.. Come to think of it.. I wasn't contracted to put the pump on, OR pull the injectors, OR do a compression test!! SOB owes me a lot of money!! lol
I don't think it works like that. Separately, are you sure the low oil pressure was shutting the engine off? That's not common. Harbor Freight has a diesel compression tester for around $30, that would give you a place to start. Only simple thing to check is to make sure the intake isn't blocked with mouse nests, or plastic bag or something.
A diesel mechanic told me that when the oil pressure got low like that, the engine would cut off. I will go out and buy a compression tester next week. I will check the intake for blockage. Thanks for your input. JdubyaM
Harbor frt.. they have 2 different sets.. one fits glow plug holes for 35-45.00 & they have a "master" set that will fit injector & gp holes for around 180.00 They are EASY to sell, after you get done using them.. MOST companies charge BIG BUCKS to come out to the job site & do a compr. test, so bear that in mind.. So if you think 35-180.00 is a lot.. try 300.00 for a test and a slap on the back, saying YUP, your engine is bad.. and you don't own the tools anymore..
Thanks. I think I will see if I can rent one or borrow one from a guy that has a tractor repair business down the road. I think I will add the ATF and see what happens.
Do the compression test before and after the atf. That's a good test for the rings, if the compression goes up by adding oil then the rings were leaking. Did the mechanic look at the engine? Did this same mechanic give you the story about sucking the oil out of the crankcase? because I don't believe that at all. I hope we can help you with this engine. The compression test will help.
If it has glow plugs are they working, my 3 cylinder Isuzu wont start at 80 above without them, just blows smoke. Steve
Good Morning. The old diesel mechanic that told me about the stopped up air filter creating the vacuum and sucking the oil out passed away. I think he was right because when it did that a huge puff of smoke came out of the exhaust all of a sudden and then it was gone and then the oil pressure dropped and the machine cut off. But it would start up and then cut off again. That was when I checked the oil and it was very low.
I will need to pull them and see if they glow. The thing never would start before unless I held the glow plug button in about 20 seconds.
The easy way to check is to unhook the wire or metal strip and then use a use a old manual battery charger black to a ground and red to the glow plug terminal, if working they will draw about 10 amps. Also after sitting for 2 years make sure you are getting 12 volts to the glow plugs, could be a corroded fuse, bad switch or relay or a mouse chewed wire. Steve
I will take your advice and check all this out. Thanks Steve
The glow plugs are getting the 12V. I am trying to pull the injectors now to pour some ATF fluid into the cylinders. Can someone tell me if there is a special socket to take them out with? My regular socket is too thick to slide down around the injector.
The glow plugs are getting the 12V. I am trying to pull the injectors now to pour some ATF fluid into the cylinders. Can someone tell me if there is a special socket to take them out with? My regular socket is too thick to slide down around the injector.
Good, now check the glow plugs with an ohmeter, or amp draw on a battery charger, or take them out and test them, and do your compression test in the glow plug hole.
Its not REALLY a special socket.. just not a China made one.. Crapsman/craftsman makes a pretty thin wall socket to fit.. WELL.. the older Crapsman sockets that is.. I have a strap-on/snap-on that fits well..
LOL! Okay. I will have to go shopping for some old thin wall sockets. I still have to borrow a compression tester unless I can find one at a good price on the net. I do have an old battery charger than I will hook up to the GPlugs to see if they pull 10 amps.
Yeah, if it pulls down the battery charger w/o shorting it out/pegging the sweeper needle.. its a pretty good sign their working.. Just do 1 at a time tho.. & take the connector "bar" off.. that way your not feeding all of them at once.
Any updates?? Steve
The mechanic said the compression was low and that is the reason it won't start up. What next? Any home remedies w/o and overhaul? Thanks!