Messed that up! Image took over the post. I have an 86' Case 1840 with what I believe is a fuel issue. 2009 hours, 4bt. When I got it, it ran decent, used it about 10 hours then it started chugging badly and throttle didn't seem to have much effect, after that it would start and idle smooth for maybe 20-30 seconds, then bog, barely run and eventually shut off. I replaced the fuel filter and now it cranks, barely starts and shuts off. In the picture, arrowing marking 1 is a wire I found dangling. Read the older 1840s had one wire fuel pump solenoids but I can't find another wire with a female connector or receptacle for this wire. Could be for an option I don't have, maybe ether injection? Arrow to "2" is a linkage that had a piece of sting attached to it that had rotted and broken so I put a ziptie through it and a string to work the linkage while trying to start. Didn't seem to have an effect. Any suggestions would be appreciated. This is my first diesel, so I'm pretty lost.
These seem to be finicky about air in the fuel system, I unscrewed the lines and cranked it until fuel came out, then did it again. Maybe 15 seconds each time, twice. Same symptom, runs for about one second, some black smoke then immediately dies. Edit: also, when pulling that linkage, it jams open, then after a few cranks it goes back to it's resting position, not sure if that's normal.
Made a video, if this site blocks links, it's on YouTube under jjthesavage channel...
Took out the air filter to run it on ether for a second, smoothes out then bogs. Cut the fuel line to see what was in the bottom of the tank, clean, installed an inline filter. It's idling more and not dying but throttle is completely unresponsive. Took off the fuel cap in case it was not venting... It's currently idling, then bogging, throttle linkage is hooked up and moving but makes no change whether on turtle or rabbit.
Went out after a few hours, cranked it and it started and idled well, throttle functioned as it should. Once it warmed up, I had the original bogging issue. I've read there is a screen somewhere in the fuel system. Anyone know where that is?
If I'm looking at this right, #2 is the solenoid that controls the injection pump on/off. It has one wire that activates with the start, and one wire that activates with run, the start is called pull in, and the run is called hold in. Sounds like hold in is not working, it starts right up, then dies as soon as you release start. Wire that linkage pulled all the way and see if that does anything. If it doesn't, then I'd guess you have a bad transfer pump, is there hand pump that's mounted to the side of the injection pump? or what kind of transfer pump is there?
Thanks for the suggestion. It was sticking open after a short start. Now that it's idling, this seems to be functioning properly. Apparently, there's a screen behind the banjo bolt on the, maybe injection pump? I'll take it off and see if I can clean it and report back. A hand pump didn't jump out at me but I'll inspect it for one. Like I said, my first diesel so I'm not real sure what I'm looking for but I should be able to find an image.
IF that linkage it attached to a solenoid, NOT the throttle control, then it should pull open when you turn the key to start, and hold all the way open until you turn the key to OFF. It's a common failure that can do what yours is doing. I'm not sure if there's a banjo bolt screen, if there is, I've never seen one do what yours is doing, which in the video seemed like it was stalling as soon as the key was released from the start position. The Japanese inline pumps really like to put a screen IN the banjo bolt inlet to the transfer pump, those will be pointing straight down. The intake from the fuel tank, then goes out to the filter, then back to the main body of the injection pump. Remove the banjo bolt, look INSIDE it, unscrew the screen with an appropriately sized straight screwdriver, blow it out and put it all back together.
Correct, when started the linkage does move back and returns when shut off. When it was not idling, it stuck in the run position a couple times but is not doing that anymore, sorry for any confusion. The banjo bolt I was referring to is on the fuel line and after work, I'm planning on removing it and trying to access the screen. Thanks for the advice on a screwdriver to unscrew the screen. If that's doesn't resolve my issue, I'll replace the fuel line, maybe it's letting air in or collapsing. I'll report my findings.
I think we might be talking past each other. The solenoid has two coils, energized by two separate circuits, pull in and hold in. BUT it has only two positions, on and off. If the run/hold in is not working, then it will start but not stay in the on position when the starter is off. Definitely look at any banjo bolt you can find. Any rubber hose is suspect also. You'll figure it out one way or another.
There is a transfer pump on the ft side of the engine. The earlier version looked like a diaphragm pump on a gas engine. The later version is a plunger type with a priming plunger on the end The diaphragm pump had a lever for priming and the engine had to be in a position so the cam lobe that ran the pump was down for the lever to work. The diaphragm pumps did fail.
Thanks, it seems to be operating properly. When I turn the engine it actuates, then it dies and when I turn the key it returns to its original position. Took off the banjo bolt and there is no screen inside. There also wasn't an inline filter on either fuel line. I don't have the smaller fuel line to replace it so I'll have to pick some up. Without inline filters and no screen, I'm concerned the injection pump has gotten mucked up, maybe the injectors are clogged. I'll replace the fuel line, prime it and see if theres any change, if not, I'll remove the pump and inspect for dirt/failed orings and whatnot. Thanks for the help.
The linkage, that is not the throttle, appears to be plunger type. I see it actuate when starting and see/hear it click back to it's original position. I've been trying to identify what kind of 4bt the engine is but I can't find any casting numbers. It has a plate (facing rear of skid, there is a timing looking cover) stating something like "this engine conforms to 1998 emission standards". I thought it was an 86 or 88 model, maybe has an newer engine, or possibly, its just the timing (or whatever cover that is) from a newer engine. As stated in my earlier comment, I'll replace fuel lines, prime it, if that doesn't work, I think any fuel devices will be coming out for inspection, cleaning. Appreciate your insight.
It's unlikely to be anything internally wrong with the injection pump. I'd follow the fuel line from the tank to the filters and injection pump. There has to be a transfer pump in there somewhere, even if it's attached to the injection pump it will have hoses going elsewhere. If not a transfer pump issue, it could be a overflow valve issue possibly. but find and confirm the transfer pump first. There's still that broken string screaming "I'm broken".
That video looks exactly like any mechanically injected diesel I've seen that had a small amount of air in the system. Have you tried cranking it with the throttle wide open?
Yeah the string is screaming broken but I am seeing it operate, I won't remove it as a possibility. It was tied in the running position so maybe they didn't want it to go back to non running position completely. I did look at the fuel line to get a size and saw in big writing, NOT FOR FUEL which is pretty cool. I'm replacing it today, will do another round of bleeding and see if that makes a difference. Good possibility the line is breaking down or collapsing and if it is breaking down, I assume the injectors are full of rubber pieces.
I did, thanks, the initial problem did seem like an air issue, maybe that NOT FOR FUEL line is sucking air into the system intermittently. Thanks for the advice.
If there wasn't a inline filter on the suction side of the supply pump.....there is a good possibility that trash has entered it and has one of the check valves partially open. When they do that it wont force fluid efficiently and will not have supply pressure. Just because it seems to be moving fuel doesn't mean its creating the needed pressure for the injector pump to operate efficiently. Those supply pumps fail quite often when not filtered.
Got the fuel line in and purged the air, took breaks on the starter so it didn't get too hot but I'm pretty sure the solenoid went out, haha! I'll do some testing and report back, this is becoming less of a project and more like a full blown mission!
RESOLVED! Fuel pump was packed with crud! Cleaned it and bled the system, runs well now.
This ended up being a bad battery cable, sheesh, what a pain it was to get this thing going.