i got a case 1840, it has no parking brake when i bought it. i just got all the parts to install it, but the parts diagram doesnt show how to properly install. Would like a video or pictures of one already installed. thanks
Are the cables there now, or are they gone? When you look down below the seat, do you see a pulley about 2" diameter at the bottom on each side? http://www.colemanequip.com/CASE/Images/1840/CASE-1840-Brakes-JAF0100497-nx8K-normal.gif
have all new parts pully was already there. diagram doesnt show how to assembly spring and clips together
Trying to figure out how to explain this without being there, actually very simple set up. Spring just hooks in hole on the bell-crank assembly marked #47 in the drawing in hole on straight arm. Curved arm has likage that goes up to the large bars marked #17. The other end of the spring is connected to the cable by the pin through the clevis #34. The drawing may be a little confusing as they show the threaded ends of both cables pointing the same direction. The cable hooked to the right lever should be hooked to the pin going into the right chain box. Left cable to left chain box pin. The part they are calling a "clip" #55 in the drawing on the 1845 loaders I am more familiar with would actually be a snap ring that holds against a washer to push against the spring #42 in the drawing to push the pin into the holes in the spur gear in chain box. To adjust how far the pin sticks out when brake is applied you would loosen nut #43 and screw the pin on or off the threaded end of the cable. There is a spec for the clearance betwee the gear and pin when brake is released but I don't have access to a service manual for that information. Not sure if any of that will help, hard to explain some things by text only.
ya that doesnt help. does the spring, spacer, washer, and snap ring go in the inside of the wheel assembly box.
Sorry I'm not better at putting words to this! Wish I had just done one a short time ago, it's probably been 10 years. Try looking inside the tube that is welded to the side of the chain box. I believe there should be a groove for the snap-ring just a short bit down inside it. I'll try a little different approach. To begin with I would have the front cover off the chain box on the side you are working on. Going by the numbers in the image above assemble like this: Take threaded end of cable (not sure if the treads are the same at both ends) and slide Boot#39 on it, then Spacer #56, then Washer #64, then spring #42, then Long spacer #45, now thread nut # 43 on the end of the cable and last thread the pin on the end of the cable and lock the nut to the pin. Would be best to have one of the holes in the Spur gear aligned with the tube welded to the inner part of the loader frame. Now you should be able to slide pin and everything (except the boot of course!)in through the tube and have it stick through the gear and be able to install the Clip #56. Now if you pull on the cable you should be able to pull the pin out of the hole in the gear. I think you could then take a piece of steel and slip it between the end of the pin and the side of the gear to keep the pin from going back through the gear hole. Then mount the pulley with the Guide #29 so cable does not rub and hook the other end of the cable with the clevis on it to the bell-crank lever #47 and then link rod #20 to the hand lever. The link rod on the right side is a little different as it has couple washer like parts that work the hydraulic controls from moving. Almost forgot about the springs #27 these are hooked between the bell-crank and the cables to allow the levers to move to the released position even if there is tension on the pins. When first moving after the brakes have been applied you need to lightly move the controls in each direction to let the spur gears move a little to let pins pop out of the holes. If you get to this point you will need to see if you can get someone to tell you the spec's on the clearance between the end of the pin and the side of the gear when levers are down in the release positions. My wild guess would be about 3/16 inch. To adjust this you would have to adjust the clevis end on the cable or maybe take the assembly back out and adjust at the jam nut on the pin end.