My Case never fails to start in the cold. I usually park it inside if expecting a snowstorm. Left it outside last night cause all the cars were parked inside. The beastie started right up as expected even though it was only 18 degrees out. I've never seen the hydraulic filter light come on, ever. After running a couple of minutes, it went off. Guessing just cold thick oil. The filter was changed when I bought it a couple of years ago but only has about 40-60 hours on it.
I will give you a Harley Davidson response, though more often than not true. They all do that. Lol. The only machine that I have that doesn’t do that, is my Kubota. Even my skid, that sometimes gets started in a cold garage but not freezing, will give me that light for a little bit, until the hydraulics warm up. I did notice, that on my Case, a better filter will help this, a little bit.
Start it, and let it idle to warm up for 10 minutes or so.
That's what I suspected. The light did go off shortly after it started so I plowed the driveway as usual other than traction. Was a sheet of ice under 4 inches of powder.
My 1845C does the same thing and it is normal. You are supposed to let it run just slightly above idle for 10mins on startup at temps below 32*, then operate at part throttle until hydraulics are warmed up enough to operate normally. As for traction, invest in a full set of tire chains, they are well worth the money and make a huge difference. I have a set for mine, they go on at the first real snow and generally stay on all winter. Just make sure you have the correct offset wheels so there is enough clearance between the chains and the body.
I just got done studding my skid steer tires, thing is a beast on ice now. Cool thing is, not really tearing any asphalt up yet.
I've been thinking about studs but I have a brand new driveway and if I chew it up, I'll have to learn to sleep with one eye open
My driveway is only 5 years old and it’s due to be sealed next year. Studs seem to be barely scratching sealer, so going to try this for a while. Really helps on ice and as long as I’m not doing doughnuts on dry pavement, should be fine. If I notice it tearing up asphalt, out they come.
I have on my skid steer also but not quite as long. That thing will definitely push snow. Simon C
looks like 1/4 inch drive self tapping/Jiffy/zip screws. If I do it, that's what I will use as I have a bunch of them. Odd that the screws in the center are showing so little wear.
I had the Kold Kutter screws in the center and I found a bag of 1/4” HH license plate Stainless Steel screws in the back of the shop. Decided to try those in the center, they are only 3/4” long. They are not as grippy as the Kutters and am hoping the SS screws sit more proud, to maybe not dig in as bad. Will see, as we got 3 1/2” last night and have block heater turned on now, waiting on hot water. It’s Xmas eve, we have guests coming. Lol
I would not use self tapping zip screws, you want them to screw into the rubber. Self tapping screws do not work well on wood or rubber.
I agree that the drill point self tapping screws suck for anything but sheet metal, but the original "Jiffy Screws" non drill point work great for wood and assume rubber.
I'ts snowing here right now but not collecting.
Will definitely help push snow.
If I'm going in a straight line it seems fine. As soon as I try to push and turn is where it really struggle. Not a problem now but when my new garage is finished, it's getting a epoxy floor. I won't be able to go over that with studs. I suppose strips of plywood if I needed to pull it in for anything.
OK, so we along with just about everyone else this side of the Mississippi had a nasty snow storm. Almost 2 feet. Traction quickly became a issue. I decided to try the screw trick. I used what I had. These were 1/4 inch drive 3/4 inch long screws (the non drill point ones). I only put a row all the way around the middle at every available nub. At first I had massive traction. First really heavy pile in front of me put to much strain on the little screws and it spit them all out. Next try will be two rows of longer screws on both the inner and outer edge of the tires. There's a lot of meat on the edge if these tires. I think I could easily put 1-1/4 inch long screws without a problem. The next problem I had was when I ran out of room to push the snow, I took the plow off and put my bucket back on to pick up and relocate the piles. Wasn't long before the snow started sticking to the bucket. It's in the garage for the night melting. Tomorrow I'll dry the bucket off and spray it with Pam and see how that works.
I have real studs that I purchased from Deere, they are Valspar studs and the tread on them is very wide and made for holding them in the rubber. I have spun out many a time with huge loads and not been able to pull even one out. Simon C
While very little experience in studding skid steer tires, my experience is in picking sleds and dirt bikes for ice racing. You can’t stud just a little bit, that causes grip and slip. Thats what rips out studs. Valspar are the best but they cost 3 times as much. I have had to replace about 20 of the license plate screws from probably on roots in the woods for my deer yard. Haven't found any yet in the driveway but if they are there, I’m sure my wife’s car will find them You have to pretty much stud all the tires, so they have constant traction. The Kold Kutter studs have a cut underside, that they claims hold them in, not sure it’s true but haven’t lost one yet. I was able to plow 24” of snow, all through my woods and now the dog and deer have a place to play and eat. Gives the deer a fighting chance against the coyotes, that and my aim. Usually have to cut trails through the woods, with the sleds but this year we are riding in style, with the SxS and heated seats. Need to put a heated steering wheel in the SxS and a heated seat in the skid steer.
I use dry lube in my buckets and on my plows. Little expensive but works better, that or spray silicone. I always wax them if they have any paint on them, in the fall.
I haven't really put any hours on this since I bought it a couple of years ago. The oil was changed by the seller just before I bought it. I think the book says 30 weight. I'm thinking about going synthetic. Any suggestions? It's a 4BT Cummins.
5W40 Synthetic from someone like Shell T6 or Chevron synthetic would work good where you are. 0W40 is good also but probably more 5W40 available in your end of world as not as cold as here in Alberta. Simon C
Meh, I just start it up and leave it alone for a 1/2 hour. Pumps stop howling after minute.
Should I have specified that I'm talking about engine oil and not hydraulic?
Well something else popped up to make my day interesting. Lately, if I park outside in the cold, the left parking pin would not retract. When I bought it, the first thing I did was completely redo the parking brake. The left side pin was seized in the released position with a broken cable. Had a bitch of a time getting that pin out. When I did, out came the milkshake. I found the front inspection cover loose. I drained it out, put in new oil and sealed the crap out of that front cover. Today, milkshake again. I know that front cover is sealed tight. I found the rear cover cracked where it bolts to the case. It's outside the seal so I'll silicone the crap out of it and use a fender washer to hold it down. I took 5 gallons of milkshake out. How to dispose of that?
The oil you replenish the milk shake with will bwe bad again in no time . Hard to get water out of hydraulics without a fair amount of new oil. Best to bite the bullet and get covers replaced if needed and get everything sealed up with good sealant after perfect cleaning, or you will have more bigger more complicated problems. Take care of these small repairs before they cost you big ones. Simon C
I put the lid on tight and throw it in the dumpster, well maybe lower it down so it stays upright. You can burn out the water if you heat it but I would just dump it. Of course, I do have a stash of bad oil for burn piles.
Your local auto zone or your local mechanic may take the waste oil. You dont hafta tell em what it is. The mechanic may require a couple cases of beer however. I too studded my tires for winter plowing but I bought real carbide tipped studs. They’re fabulous. My driveway is all uphill. They came with an installation bit. I put them in with an impact driver. They will scratch your driveway tho. Even if you make 11 point turns. These particular studs are not really removable. I just bit the bullet and bought a second set of wheels and tires ♂️. There are great tire dealers on E bay that sell name brand tire and wheel packages for decent prices.