I bought this with loader hydraulics not working. It steers and pump puts out pressure had 1500 psi till gauge connection sprung a leak. It seems like the auxiliary works the engine bogs down and the hoses to it jump when activated. I rebuilt the loader control valve and it appeared ok. New oil and oil filter, oil filter light stays on. Wondering about the relief valve.
Welcome emb! The relief could be a problem, but if the aux hyd seem to be working, then so should the loader hyd. When you say aux hyd, is that the foot pedal? Does your machine have high flow option? Where did you plumb in to the hyd to do your test? The oil filter by-pass light will stay on till you get a little bit of temp in the oil, the fact you are not running it for long may explain it staying on.
If the engine bogs down and the hoses kink you have a restriction
The aux is foot pedal I tested the pump pressure at the tee on the discharge side of the pump. The oil is HOT It will not give any pressure until it has ran a while and I work the auxiliary pedal back and forth to warm up the oil. I get no movement on the loader hoses at all. It does have hi flo and that seems to work the engine bogs down when energized.
After I figure this out my Kubota tractor 's oil light is on and my Farmall H 's hand clutch needs rebuilt!
If you have flow into the control valve and you are stroking the spools with no output I would try to swap the two spools around in case some"one" has worked on it before
If your auxiliary valve is a seperate valve from the loader valve you should check for a broken relief valve in the loader valve
aux is a separate valve, Also when I rebuilt the valve the book said one thing and the spool valve arrangement was switched, It did not look like the valve was rebuilt so I put it back together the same way which was opposite of the way the book said.
The fact that you have NO flow out of the working ports says you have a major problem. Relief valve is missing pieces or the spools are in the wrong spot
If the machine has high flow it has 2 hydraulic pumps. One for the loader only and the other pump combines with the loader pump to give you high flow. Since you say it loads the engine when you activate the high flows I would check the splines and coupler on the loader pump under the radiator. It sounds like the pump is not turning and supplying oil to the loader valve but the high flow pump is working but at half flow which is why it loads the engine when the high flow is engaged.
Except pump puts out 1500+ before gauge hose leaked and had to shut down. The spools are opposite from what the manual says. Like I said it did not appear it had been worked on so I put it back the way I took it apart. I thought maybe the manual was a misprint. Guess I will pull the valve again and switch them.
There are different valve setups used on the 1840 depending on the serial number range and whether it has self levveling bucket or not andd the main difference betweeen the valves is the position of the spools. ome have the boom in the outside boore versuss the inside bore. The plumbing and linkage are also different on the different valves. Your spools maybe correct for your machine so dont pull it apart till we find out what setup you have and should have. What about the auxillary foot pedal? Does it bog down the engine when stroked? Make sure it is returning to neutral as that will cause loader control problems also but ussually only in one direction on the loader and one direction on the bucket circuit.
NO load leveler on this I checked that when I saw the spools switched. The aux does bog down the engine when activated and the lines to the coupler stiffen up. It does return to the center. The person I bought if from said the hydraulics worked when they parked it but did not work after it sat in the shed for a few months...Do not know if that is correct or not? Also seems like a steady stream of oil comes out of the rods that go into the transmission that the steering linkage bolt onto. I removed the small spool and replaced the o ring and backup o ring but still leaks pretty good. the S# is JAF0159324, 1995?
I hope this doesn't add confusion, if the spools are mixed up it may be your problem .... According to your serial number, yours should be configured as per the 'later' model. The pump you checked the pressure at was located under the radiator & not beside the engine under the injector pump?
Pump is under the radiator.
Spools are located per the Later model drawing above.
Have you checked the splines and coupler on the pump under the radiator? That is what it sounds like may have happened and with the machine being high flow you could be getting back flow to the std auxillary valve causing the hoses to tighten do to a problem with the high flow valve
spools are as per the later model diagram which in my manual is correct for model with load leveler.
But if the splines are bad on the pump would I get 1500+ in pressure?
I sure hope you guys figure this thing out. The mental anguish is driving me crazy because I can't think of anything to add to the conversation. I do find it hard to believe, or at least a coincidence, that "it worked fine until it was parked for a spell", there's just no logical explanation to support that in my mind.
It is killing me also. I bought it clean out my pond since the water level was way down. But in the last 20 days we have gotten 6" of rain and pond is starting to come back up! It has a sticker on it for MERRITT EQUIPMENT COMPANY out of Arkansas. I tried calling the number several times but no answer.
Ok, a lot of relative but disconnected info here. The machine is a relatively simple system, although made slightly more complex via high flow. Nevertheless, when you say you tested the pressure, just how did you do that? Connect a pressure gauge to a test port and operate the aux circuit with no attachment, thereby making a hyd dead end? If so, and it produced pressure, that seems to indicate initial problem not in the pump/pumps. Also, since it produced pressure using the aux control, seems to indicate problem not at aux valve as well. All that's left is the main control valve, and possibly the high flow system however it relates to the control valve (which I know nothing about). So if all this logic is correct, and main control valve is the prime suspect, pull that puppy out, bust it apart on a table and take a good pic of how its components are oriented for us to view, maybe then one of the techs here can spot a problem. One other thing I thought of for the Case techs, is it possible someone messed up the power beyond adapter in the main control valve causing this problem?
Like Willie stated it is a real simple system. The pump moves oil to the loader valve, through it, out the power beyound port to the auxillary valve, through that, out the aux power beyound to the high flow valve and back to tank. That is the flow if no spools are stroked and the high flow is off. At the same time the high flow pump is moving oil to the high flow valve and as long as it is off/open ithe oil goes back to tank. Both pump flows combine as they go into the high flow valve so they hook to a tee before the high flow valve and both go to tank as long as the high flow valve is off/open. My thought is the splines on the loader pump are stripped which is not uncommon and the high flow valve is on or partly blocked for some reason which will send high flow oil backwards to the auxillary valve and make it partly work and give you the pressure and load you are seeing using the foot pedal. Please check the coupler and pump splines so we can atleast rule that out. Even is the spools were in the wrong bores the loader should at least try to work. The loader and main auxillary dot ussually cause any problems except for internal or small internal leakage.
K will pull the pump and check it. will be a couple days and I will post pics of it in case i miss something. Does anyone know where a person can get a cap for the tank so I can pull a vacuum on it to prevent oil loss? I do hvac work and have a pump.
You should be able to do a quick check on the pump shaft with a mirror and a light. Get the mirror and light positioned were you can see the shaft. Usually you can easily see if the splines and coupler are stripped. As far as how to hook up a vacumn pump just go to the hardware or plumbing and get a rubber plumbing bushing a little bigger than the fill on the tank and adapt it to the hose fitting on your vacumn pump. P.S. Check your private messages
If you are only getting 1500 psi with the footpedal aux deadheaded that in itself indicates a relief valve or a powerbeyond sleeve issue. Pressure with out flow is meaningless as 1500 psi at 0 gpm will do no work. If I were you I would have the machine flo tested to check the output of the pump. You could take everything out of the circuit by hooking the flo tester direct to the pump output and isolate the pump from the rest of the machine. The oring on the powerbeyond sleeve will not keep the loader hydraulics from being at full strength but would cause a weak aux circuit. The system on that machine is not at all complex. Even 1500 lbs with ample flow should do some work so we're missing something here.
Do not know what new looks like. Is this normal or is this worn?
That sure is worn. Hows the mating part? Unless the mating part is completely striped out even as bad as that is it should work. Next question is what does the inside of that pump look like? Before you try taking it apart be sure to mark the parts in relation to each other.
when it was new those splines were straight, and looked like the tip and base of your worn splines. EVEN I wouldn't put that back together. It does look like it's not slipping yet, but the other other splines might be obviously stripped out. Can you take the other part of the couple out and see if you can get it to slip? You might be able to hack the other coupler to get the good splines on it to line up with the little bit of good splines you have there, but I wouldn't expect that to last long. I'd be looking for a new pump or shaft, and the other part of the coupler also. And that is both completely normal AND completely worn.
I'd bet the female splines in the coupler are just as worn as those, and when it's loaded, it slips. If so, you may be getting some pressure by the other pump back feeding, or maaaybe the splines are just catching enough to get that result.
The coupling feels like the splines are straight. I guess I will take it all apart once I get all the oil out and saved.
EMB, If as I suspect you have a severe pump problem internally as well as the splines, do not even consider putting the old oil back in, It may well be contaminated and you don't know what's been dumped in it over the years. There is also a filter for the hydraulics which must be changed. The reservoir plug is behind the chaincase on the lower rear of the machine, they can be a real treat to get out but must be done, You should also use a special additive for use with the recommended oil called HTO obtained at Case dealers.
Oil was changed with additive and new oil filter. Any ideals where to get a pump, Or have it rebuilt, Or rebuild myself?
http://www.loaderpartssource.com/ca...ps/hydraulic-gear-pump-for-all-case-1840.html
Isn't there a Case Dealer near you? Or the place willie59 mentions looks pretty good on price. If it was me before ordering a new pump I knock the old one apart if for no other reason to see what it looks like inside. Then post some nice clear pictures here so we can give you our opinion on what if anything is wrong with it. With the wear on the splines of the pump the drive flange spline has to be bad too unless someone else just replaced it. New parts against worn parts is not a good plan for trouble free life of either.
Just checked willie59's link they show the coupler for $51.00 check it out: http://www.loaderpartssource.com/hydraulic-drive-pump-coupler-for-case-1840-and-1845c-131693a1.html
In my opinion a used hydraulic pump cannot be reasonably rebuilt satisfactoraly, you can reseal and replace a shaft set but damage to the main housing cannot be repaired. Many time those aluminum pumps have bronze faced steel back bushings that fail or loosen up allowing gear contact to remove material from the main gear housing. Most times bushings are not available as a seperate item from the endplates. As KS Hansen said, knock it apart and see what you are dealing with.
That pump looks done to me, blueing on the end plate indicating excessive heat. Also, look at the housing where the gears have been scraping the housing. That's caused by wear of the shaft bushing which allows gear to contact housing. If you look closely at where I've indicted bushing wear, it will look bronze. The rest of the bushing will look more like white metal.
Pretty much what I expected to see, if you look at the gear position in the 9:00 area it appears as if there is .010-.015" wear out of the housing, the gears show evidence of abrasion on the tips. I would not spend any time or effort on it and invest in a new coupler as well and treat the splines with Moly Kote or some similar moly lube. Mel
Thanks guys now to find a pump
They are readily available through Case. Don't waste your time, money or effort looking for used. If you're keeping it long term bite the bullet and go new. When installing, before mounting it pour clean oil in the suction port and turn it through several times to prelube the pump before startup.
Make sure you fit a new filter! Also get your test gauge sorted & recheck the relief pressure, just to be sure it is not set too high.
I didn't think the relief was adjustable? I installed new pump was filled with oil started it up I worked the loader controls nothing happened, I worked the aux control engine bogged down blew a bad hose out of the aux control and engine bogged and died. I replaced the hose added more oil started it up it ran for a bit then bogged the engine down and killed it. It is low on oil again added 3 gallons and need to go buy more. That is where I am at concerned about the engine getting bogged down and dying.
Good call. Did somebody mess with the relief to "fix" the worn pump?
added 2 more gallons now battery is dead! charging
K guys here is where I am on this thing took a break and had a guy I found take a look at it. The hose that feeds the loader valve and runs towards the back of the unit has been cut off cannot find the other end. The hose that comes out of the opposite side has a tee on it one hose runs towards the back and one hose runs towards the front the hose that goes towards the front has been cut off. Looks like they ran the hose from the pump straight up to the auxiliary valve. Mystery WHY? and how should it be piped? It also has Hi-Flow.
Sorry emb, I'm a little confused as to what you are trying to explain. If hoses are 'cut off', are they disconnected & blanked off with a cap/plug & just laying in the belly pan? The hose to the aux valve comes from which pump? Have you looked at the on line parts catalogue? You should be able to work out the hose routing from there. None of the schematics I have include the high flow. edit - I'm not sure what happens to the original power beyond fitting & hoses for aux, at/from the loader control valve....... seems once the high flow is fitted the aux gets oil from from there. It should be plugged at the loader control valve..?
The hose from the discharge out of the pump connects directly to the auxiliary. The hose that is supposed to be the input from the pump to the loader valve is cutoff no cap. On the opposite side of the loader valve I believe it is the output to the auxiliary valve that hose is cut and laying on the floor no cap and was covered with a foot of oily dirt sand and rocks like it had been cut and laying there for years. it apears like they just bypassed the loader valve and ran auxiliary and maybe hi flo???
???? What The ????? Of what use is a skid steer to anyone with out loader hydraulics????? Man, this is weird. Maybe they fitted the high flow themselves & didn't have a clue? All I can say is that you'll have to look at those pics & plumb it up as you can see it. Maybe Goose or gggraham will have some more info to help you. An instruction guide to installing a high flow kit to a std machine is what would probably help the most.
Guess nobody has any ideals. Why this would have been done.
Now Runs BUT Anyway, repiped it and it works but will not pick up a full or even a half bucket full of dirt. I connected the gauge to the auxiliary coupling connection and when I run the aux pedal I have 825 psi and it drops from there the more I work the pedal. Can I tell if the loader valve relief is working from connecting to the aux?
Does anyone know for sure if the relief valve is adjustable? I do not think it is. when I took apart the valve at the start of this it came out as one piece.
My case 1840 works great for a few minutes then it stars to lose power, loader hydraulics don't lose power though, only forward and backward. I think it works fine until oil warms up then pressure drops and it becomes super slow.. Any ideas? I'll appreciate some help
Check case drains filters. Usually when you loose hyd power is its either running across a relief or you have some warn pumps/motors. If you unhook your leakage lines off your drive motors and run it to observe how much leakage(Warn parts) there is. You shouldnt have much leakage at all with good condition pumps/motors. If oil pours out of the case drain, you have some problems..
Do you have a diagram for an early nodel of an 1840 with the load leveling valve available?