My 1845b keeps breaking the drive chain from the drive motor. I've replaced the sprockets and all chains. Any thoughts? Thanks Kent
Wheel bearings?
Bearings are good. No play and move free.
Have you adjusted the chain tension (deflection)?
every time. I give it about 1/2" of play. This last time I reduced it to "almost" tight. Made it about 20' before it broke. Thx for your replies
That sounds strange to me. I worked on several 1845's from the non-lettered version up to a 1989 1845C that was still being used in the quarry when I retired in 2015 and I can't recall replacing the chain from the drive motor to the center sprocket once. Chains to the individual hubs many times sometimes a few times a rear and mostly for the rears. Seems our guys like to run with bucket down and front wheels off the ground. As Redman1 asks are you adjusting the chains? Not too tight but also not running them too loose? Did you replace with a good heavy duty chain or use something from a place like Tractor Supply? Not saying Tractor Supply chain is junk but might not be made for the stress of a skid-steer. Another couple things to check would be condition of sprockets and the alignment of sprockets. Worn or damaged teeth will stress chains as will sprockets out of alignment.
Bent shaft? If it only made it 20' it should be bad enough to find easy. Maybe a picture of the different broken chains would help?
Couple things I would do is drain the chain box and then before installing a new chain block up the problem side and remove the wheels. With the chain to the motor off you should be able to rotate the hubs by hand on that side. At the most you might need to use a short bar between a pair of wheel studs. Everything should turn smooth and easy. I would then have someone else turn the hubs while you carefully looked down in the chain box. Probably need a flashlight and a mirror but pay close attention to the big sprocket in the middle the motor chain goes around look for any kind of damage to teeth or something caught in the teeth. Next if nothing looks bad there start the machine and being very careful of moving parts operate the lever for the problem side while watching the gear on the drive motor. Again be looking for damaged teeth, something wedged in teeth or as Delmar says bent shaft causing gear to wobble. Just thought of something else!!!! Have you checked the parking brake pins for proper action? The parking brake on these machines are actually I believe 1 1/2 inch spring loaded pins that when brake control is moved to "PARK" they slip into holes in the big gear the motor chain goes around in the center of chain box. Not sure on an 1845B but I think they are operated by a lever to the right of the seat just ahead of the drive lever for the right side. If that is the style you have the lever pulls back and latches to release the brake. Two problems many operators have with this brake system. First if the pins are not aligned with the holes in the gears when brake is applied they will not lock the drive on that side till machine moves a slight distance. Second is if machine tries to move or roll while brake pins are engaged in the hole in the sprocket they can bind and not release when brake lever is moved to the off position. All one needs to do is gently attempt to move one way or the other to take pressure off the pins. It is also a good idea when parking machine with machine stopped and engine at idle engage the brake then nudge the drive levers a little to rock machine to let the pins pop in to the holes. You will know when they pop in if you are very gentile on the controls. If those brake pins are not free to move under the spring pressure it is very possible that they are not fully retracting even when the brake is in the off position and this could be the real cause of the chain breaking it the pin locked up the gear while moving machine. I'll see if I can find any information on parking brake system maybe find a parts break down online.
Okay found the brake set up you should have. In the picture below I colored the pins that lock into the gears red. As I recall the easiest way on an 1845 or 1845B to work on them is to block up the loader securely on blocks high enough to let you work at them from underneath on a creeper. As I recall there are two belly pans that can come off the bottom. One under the engine and one further forward where the barke pins are located. I believe the forward one has a hose hold down for one of the hoses attached to it that you have to remove from under seat of machine.
Okay me again found a picture of the belly pan on an 1845B. It it you can see the bolts and nuts along the front end ( I believe there are 5 at the front) and the bolts at the back edge. I circled the bracket I was referring to that you need to remove the hold down for the hose from before pan will come off.
Be certain the bearings (#26) at the cluster sprocket have not failed. The shaft (#20) will likely be damaged. Be certain to install the thrust washers (#24) during re assembly. Also, if things have been removed & reinstalled, be certain the sprockets are fitted correctly & are in line with each other, particularly #11.
Some good points there! I would think that if he rotated the hubs with the motor chain off like I suggested he would either feel roughness or see things wobbling around if there was a bearing problem for gear (#25). Also if there was a problem with the bearings and thrust washers for that gear it could allow the gear to move around enough to cause the parking brake pin to catch and lock things up. Those big holes around the gear (#25) are what the parking brake pins (#35 red in the drawing I posted two pages back) lock into.
I'll try the things you guys mentioned. The chain is 60h purchased from the same place the local case dealer gets theirs. Still could have been a bad batch though. New bearings came with the center sprocket assembly. I will check the tracking of the big sprocket. Thx for the input...
You might want to check on the chain as I replaced one on mine but I think it was an 80.
by the way I live in Moberly mo. where you at norm
You know... now that happy mentions it my uniloader might be a #80.... I know my similar sized bobcat is.... just something to think about.
Chain from the drive sprocket to the central assembly (A in the diagram) is 60h. From the center to the wheels (B) is 80.
Well here it is 2021 and I finally got registered here so I can respond. You guys are GREAT!! So I would like to know what the problem ended up being????? So my center roller and thrust bearings were destroyed, discovered only after replacing broken drive chains (80) a few times... WEll I had no bearings or place to buy nor funds to get them anyway... soooooo. You won't believe.. I used PVC pipe instead and used the sleeve of a calking tube with cut of end at right length and a slit down the length as shim to tighten... not sure what else I did to compensate for the thrust bearing but it has been doing just fine for what five years now. I finlly found the parts for a good price and when I get them I will replace and see how the PVC and calking tube fared. weared etc. Thought you guys would get a kick out of this, jurry rig. Blessings Content in violation of Forum Rules edited out.
I was all set to write a comment till I got to that last paragraph! Kind of sorry I spent the time and effort in the past!
Hi there, I was searching for some information on a Case 1835 skid steer which I have broken a drive chain on. The biggest issue is that the chain has ‘piled up’ in the corner of the compartment under the sprocket. I have tried numerous ways to pull it out to no avail. any suggestions? Thanks