new to the forum, Recently acquired a 1992 1845C. With 1500 hrs. Appears to be in excellent working condition. Equipped with aux. but no high flow. Unfortunately none of the manuals were included. Read everything I could on this forum. One of the thing I’m trying to figure out if there is a “float” when operating a bucket and if so, how do I activate it. The 1845c will only be used to play around our rural property , plowing a long gravel driveway, no commercial work. Advice to a newbie welcomed Thanks Larry
Yeah, there should be a float function. On the left handle, push down like you are lowering the arms/boom. Then push it down more, it should lock into that extra down position - arms will float at this point. Pull it back up to unlock it and then left handle will raise and lower arms again.
Thanks much appreciated. Will give it a try tomorrow. If I may ask another question. The 1845 came with a 4 in 1 bucket + I have an angle plow. I read on the forum how dirt in the hydraulic system could do serious damage to the pump. Before connecting either the plow or bucket to the aux quick connect . Should I “bleed” them ? How do you do that?
Shouldn't have to bleed them but make sure all the couplers are really clean when connecting and disconnecting them. Hook the hoses together on the implements when not using them (or use caps) and put the caps on the couplers on the machine if not using the aux. hyd's. Also make sure the plow has the same type of oil as the machine so you don't potentially mix incompatible oils. Working the bucket open and closed or angling the plow a few times should bleed any air out.
Perfect. Thanks. The plow was from surplus auction. Likely foreign made. Should I dissembled the lines and clean them ?
I'd try and drain as much oil as possible from the cylinders and lines. Have to be careful using a solvent so it doesn't damage seals.
Not sure about the newer 1845C's but know the 1989 the detent for the float could get rusted up and not work after a while. On ours it was in a separate block on top of the control valve right around the spool. If you could post a S/N usually stats with JAF, might be able to post better information. Below is the type ours had, block and detent plungers in red. I think the newer models have the detent a bit more enclosed to keep dirt and water out.
Guys, Thanks so much for the feedback , day 4 with the machine ( 1992 - JAF0102XXX), so spent the day investigating The detent for the float was full of crap/rust - the springs were jammed inside the holders. Cleaned everything out and reinstalled. Still no float.. looked at the schematic above and notice no spring between the valve body and linkage ( mine had one - see pics). Took spring and washer off ( looking at spring and how it was grinded for custom lenght - obviously an add on - which prevented valve shaft full travel. Reinstalled the linkage and float mode now engage very easily and works flawlessly. The only noticable difference is that on the right arm you fell a certain amount of pressure on the lever when you engage the curl or dump function. On the left lever you feel the same amount of pressure when you raise the loader arm but almost no pressure when you lower the arm ( that may explain why the spring was added?) All the linkages are well lubed up and travelling free. Any thoughts ? I'll post a few additional questions in the next thread Thanks
Looking at the machine - noticed canister with valve body connecting to engine intake manifold, figured out that it's an ether dispenser option for cold start , no sure if canister are still available in canada or if I will really need it?. Second thing is a fuel pre heater located underneath the starter fuel goes from pump - primary fuel filter - heater- secondary fuel filter- injector. Water from water pump - heater- radiator. Never owned machinery so not sure if this is ok or very good ? Third one is I have a red switch on both handle right switch is for the horn left switch wire goes under the floor board but not hooked up to anything ? Thanks
Sorry wrong pic on the pre heater question
1. The canister is an ether canister for the ether start. Helps in cold weather. Should be available from dealer. 1845c are cold blooded and if you leave your machine outside, you'll most likely need to plug it in or use the either start. 1845c also tend to get water in the chain cases. The best solution for all this is to keep it inside (and heated) if you can. It's solves a few problems. 2. that's an addon. Not original I believe. Is it a fuel heater or a fuel pump? The lift pumps go out and some people add inline pumps instead. I can't see a fuel heater being of much help in cold? 3. Just a guess on the last one. But that wire...probably should be hooked to the horn.
Thanks phil. 2- is is a fuel heater not a pump. 3- the horn works with the button on the right handle
Ah, sorry. I misread your original statement. You have buttons on both handles. Left one is not connected to anything. I've got no ideas on this. My 1845c doesn't have any buttons.
Phil, Any idea on “The only noticable difference is that on the right arm you fell a certain amount of pressure on the lever when you engage the curl or dump function. On the left lever you feel the same amount of pressure when you raise the loader arm but almost no pressure when you lower the arm ( that may explain why the spring was added?) All the linkages are well lubed up and travelling free. Any thoughts ?”
You should have resistance in both directions. In other words the handle should center itself or return to center if you let go of it. You are right, the external spring was probably added to fix the fact it wasn't working right. But not a good fix. If I had to guess your boom spool has a problem internally. If you look at the diagram in post #7 above, each spool has an internal spring (part #5) with 2 hat shaped washers (part #4, 6) on each end. As you move the spool in either direction, the spring should compress against one of the hat washers. When you let go, it should return to center. I'm guessing that the bolt at the end of the spool (part #7) has come loose or broken. The spool would then only work in one direction, when pushing against the front most hat washer. Moving in the other direction, the spool would just be floating since the bolt is not pulling the last hat washer (part #6).
Guess I was not awake enough to understand what was being described, phil314 is right with the exception the break-down I posted was for an older machine, here is the one that I believe is correct for denver05's 1845C: And if this works this would be the link to the Case online oarts catalog for that valve where I got the picture above: https://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr57482ar419891 Case is one of the nice companies that gives you easy access to parts books online. Just go to " https://partstore.casece.com " and do a search for your machine by model number. There is also an agricultural equipment site if you do a Google search that will also come up!
Ok, Part # 20 is missing and was replaced by a flat washer. Which would explain the no tension on the " arm down " function. I think I can fab a work around, but given that everything mechanically/hydraulically seems to work ok. Is there a safety or other reasons why someone would have made this type of modification to lever function ie, blocking the float function by adding a spring on the outside of the valve?
I can't see why one would replace that #20 with a flat washer to disable the float. Actually think not having that centering spring function as designed would be somewhat of a safety hazard! Not trying to spend your hard earned money but I would be very tempted to replace the missing #20 along with the spring that goes with it.
I've lost count of the number of really dumb ways I've seen people fix stuff. Mostly it boils down to being lazy, cheap, or having no clue what they are doing. I'm guessing the spring/washer was one of these. I see this as a safety issue. Something like this, I'd spend the money and get the right parts from case and fix it right. If those arms drop unexpectedly, it could kills someone. And lots of people like to crawl out of the cab with the arms up. Which is not a good idea on any machine.
Thanks. , I will try the local case dealer, if not I will order on line from Coleman.
Local case dealer did a good job at finding me the new spring and "cup". Installed this past weekend. Seems to be about a 1/4 " difference between new and old spring. I still dont understand why the modifications to an outside spring was done, but all back to original and working well. PS looking at sliding the cab forward which bolts need to be removed ?
If you look on eBay you’ll find a ton of 1845c manuals and service guides. I bought a service and parts book for my 1840 and it’s helped me out a lot.
As i recall there are two 1/2 inch bolts at the front of the ROPS and two more up high at the rear. But you also have to disconnect the linkage for the hydraulic controls and the steering levers. And of course unplug the electrical harness under the seat. I would agree with AdamMN about getting some of the manuals, at the very least the Operator manual as it should have a nice step by step instruction on moving the cab. It will also give you instructions on adjusting drive chains and oil types and amounts. Just a quick search found this: https://www.ebay.com/i/222858980956...MI6Or8tvrp5QIVSZyzCh2IYQdVEAQYBSABEgK78fD_BwE Might want to have your serial number handy and check with who ever you want to buy it from to be sure it covers you machine as they made those 1845c's for many years and there were a few updates over time!