After my restoration I am ready to start this thing but I am not sure if I need to bleed the system? The entire system was disassembled and removed so it was obviously completely void of all oil. I added the 10w30 with the HTO additive but have not started it. Do I need to bleed it? Another interesting tidbit is the sight glass for the hydraulic oil always shows empty even with 25 quarts of fluid. It showed empty when I bought the machine. I do not see how the ports could clog but I suppose it is possible. Anyone else experience this?
25 quarts is 6.25 gallon. Empty system holds 42 quarts. You need to add more. The odds of the sight glass having a blockage are pretty slim. As for priming, there is no bleed procedure necessary because the tank level is higher than the pumps, but... machine off the ground, start and idle machine then immediately slowly operate both travel levers to allow circulation of oil in the hydrostatic drive tandem pump. It's not necessary to operate the loader right away, but, when able, operate the bucket and boom full stroke several times, using care to not hard stop the cylinders at each end until stroked several times.
Like heymacall's charts show the total system is 42 quarts that 23 is only what will come out when you change the oil by draining the tank. A good reason to keep up with proper oil changes as you only change about half the oil each time. Also why if something fails just changing the oil in tank is not really enough!
I see a lot more $$$$$$ going into this rebuild project.
I realized after I posted I was only adding to based on a fluid change and not accounting for the whole system being empty. I added the rest of the oil today and all was good! I chnaged the engine oil and added new coolant. Everything is reassembled but it is not firing for some reason. It turns over but will not start. I am thinking it is a sensor issue somewhere. It ran good before I started this project so I know there is hope. I just have to track the problem down! There are two wire leads that were not connected when I bought it. I think one is suppose to connect to the seat sensor. I will put those details in another post to get input. Thanks all for your help!
Mine, all four of them, do not have a seat sensor, and they will all start seat bar (or handles) up or down. My newest is a '96. Later units may have seat bar or seat switches. How many wires to your fuel stop solenoid, 1,2,or 3?
A suggestion regarding the hydraulic oil if it's not too late. What we tend to do on either new or rebuilt machines where the system has been completely drained is to fill the hydraulic tank to the neck, ignoring the level gauge completely. Then when the level drops the pumps have some oil to chew on rather than emptying the tank in a heartbeat. The level still has to be watched carefully and stop the engine if the oil level drops out of the bottom of the sight glass, but it does give you a few extra seconds on the first engine start.
Do you see white smoke while cranking? And do you have power to the fuel pump, would have to check wiring to be sure if it is power to pump to stop or run. Not sure if you have a wiring diagram and not positive the one below is for your s/n but might help. It does look like for the machine this diagram is for that the fuel solenoid is powered to run.
@Larpy I'm almost 100% positive 1845C did not use seat switches. Check 12V supply to fuel solenoid - if that is ok & you can hear it clicking when activated - you need to bleed the air from the fuel system.
I think the issue is power to the fuel solenoid. The machine turns over and it does pump some white smoke but not a lot. I bleed air out of the injectors as a friend turned the ignition. It wants to fire when I have an injector "open".
I will take a few pics and post. There are two areas on my fuel pump that have hookups for wiring. One is on the top side and the other is at the botton. The top side is the solenoid. What is the bottom sensor? Also on the fuel solenoid there are two tabs for hookups. Are they both used? You guys are awesome! Thanks for all the help. This is my first skid steer and it has been a ton of work but I have really enjoyed learning and giving a new life back to this beast!
Not sure if this will help but attaching the parts page for the injection pump item number is the fuel solenoid. Not sure if you posted a serial number might help figure out what that upper point the arrow points to is. Or may be post another picture with out the arrows as I'm having a hard time seeing what might be there.
IIRC the top wire is the shutoff solenoid and the bottom while the timing advance solenoid which is mainly used to aid in cold starting.
It was a lack of power to the fuel solenoid! I gave it 12 volts and it fired right up! The only issue....at high rpm it is stuttering a bit. What would cause this? Other then that it runs really well!
The machine moves back and forth but the loader arms and bucket are a no go! I have let it idle, tried cycling them several times but nothing. Any ideas?
Boom and bucket operate from pump in back (front of engine). Is drive coupling still there?
Yes, It was opetating before I put new lines on. Maybe air?
Or any chance you put a plastic plug in a line somewhere that got forgotten? Most likely on the suction side of the pump. I know some one who did that on a 988 Cat loader once. I won't mention his name but he has over 6,500 posts to this site! I would not run for more than a few seconds if no hydraulic action is seen. If pump is dry it won't last long!
I think I need to adjust the hand controls leading back to the loader pump because I don't think I'm getting full cycle
Even if linkage is out of adjustment you should still have some movement of the cylinders, just a bit slower than normal. I might be tempted to loosen the outlet hose at the pump and crank it over with the fuel pump wire off just to know for sure you have oil to and from the pump. If you have flow there at least you won't burn up the pump while checking for the problem.