Older 1845C that works great sometimes. The times it does not work great there is a weird problem with the bucket. The boom will always raise and lower fine. The bucket will always tilt down fine. It will not tilt up unless I also raise the boom at the same time. I have to do both operations at the same time. The bucket will also tilt up if I am lowering the boom at the same time. If the machine starts up and the bucket will tilt up ok then it continues to function properly. It never switches back and forth while the machine is running. Any thoughts?
I was having some trouble with mine and I oiled the linkage under the seat.
All of the linkage is moving fine. I can see the plunger moving in and out on the control valve. I saw another post of the same thing on another forum but with no answer so I am hoping someone can help.
I think mine (1993 model) was curling the bucket when raised, anyway it sounds like the same problem. I picked up the seat and checked it out and everything looked to be working fine and this had been going on for a few months:Banghead so I dumped a bucket oil on the linkage and everything then put the seat back and drove it around for a while and the problem cleared up :beatsme
Check the auxillary pedal and make sure it is in the neutral position and will stay there. If the pedal is partly engagedd it may cause this problem depending on the vintage of the machine. The early machines had the spring on the auxillary spool in the open and it would rust away and them let the valve get off center and the later ones had a pot metal cap that would rot away. Also check that the valve is not stuck fron not using it and get bumped out of neutral and will not return the neutral easy.
Good suggestions. I will check it. Thanks.
Problem solved. The Aux hyd pedal was slightly engaged. It was also making it hard to start as nothing was attached to the remotes. Two problems solved.
Newbie needs third post Not to hijack the thread, but has anybody had problems with one of the drive locks not wanting to disengage? Can't do anything but go around in circles? very frustrating...
if you rock the machine back and forth does it disengage? Also make sure your chain tank on that side has enough oil in it as this is what lubricates the drive lock pin. The next thing is to make sure that the cable is still hooked up to the safety arms and is being pulled enough to pull the drive lock. remember the left safety arm pulls the right drive lock and vice versa. If for some reason you decide to disable it you have to seal up the drive lock sleeve as chain oil will leak.
Thanks, I'll look at that. By the way, I'm trying to post a new thread about changing the fan belt, but the forum won't take a new thread. Any experience with this? I needed to change the belt tensioner, and figured I'd replace the belt while I was in there, but it looks like I've got to drain the hydraulics and remove pump from crankshaft, etc. to do this. What a PITA! Really, to change the fan belt?
I have no idea on the fan belt, I have not been there yet on mine. I was planning on changing it as a maintenance item though. Does you drive lock ever dissengage at all?
Sure, it disengages. Most of the time I don't have any problem with it at all, just once or twice the left side one has stuck and no amount of rocking back and forth seems to do anything. Then, for no reason, presto, everything goes like it's supposed to. On the belt: from what I could see, the best time to address it as a maintenance item is when you're planning on changing the hydraulic fluid out. It appeared as though there was a big bracket bolted onto the bottom of the engine block that would need to be removed, then the hydraulic pump taken off that, a couple of large hydraulic lines, etc. to get the belt off. Guess I better plan on it, since my belt was looking kinda crackled. I only have about 1,200 hours on mine, but it's 10 years old...
Most of the time you can remove the pump mounting bolts and pull it back with out unhooking the hoses and slip the new belt in.
Can anyone tell me how the drive lock works on an 1845c? One of my cables is broken but the machine still seems to roll without resistance. Also any ideas where i can get a manual for a decent price....not $230.00, or find online help? Cheers Tim
then either the drive lock pin is broke or has been removed. pull the rubber boot off and see what is there. I guess the pin could work its way into the chain oil tank. The cable should pull the pin when the safety arms are down. If the rubber boot is not put back then you will have a oil leak. I have a pin that is completely missing on mine on one side.
Thanks for the info...i'll check into it! Tim