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Case 207D, replacing cracked block, not going so well

Laker82 ยท 2024-02-23 13:00

Found an old bare 450B block so am moving parts over from old to replacement. Got a little freaked out with the oil passage in the cracked block being a center drilled and the replacement having only a rear oil passage. Should work out ok if I do the lifters correctly. Any insights into the ages of the blocks? (Neither had tags, cracked had old piston style.) Cam bearings ? New block had no cam bearings so bought new. Seams to be right #s, though there is a variety of narrow or wider rear bearing shown. I got the narrow rear. Shaft will not fit. Installed I am getting too tight readings of 1.747, 1.748, where it should be 1.752 to 1.753. Block problem? Do not believe Babbitt bearings should be reamed. What am I missing ?

Replies4
  1. #1Tinkerer2024-02-23 15:38

    The width of the bushings is specific to which hole in the block they go in. Be sure the holes in the bushings line up PERFECTLY with the gallery's that supply oil to them. NO reaming is needed.

  2. #2Laker822024-02-23 16:35

    Thanks. My manual indicates the rear bearing has been increased to a larger size to match the front. I received the original 15/16 th size. My bushing installer did not have a real tight fit. 45 mm too tight 44 mm a little loose. I think I may have expanded them a little. I do have actual bearing scrapers and will probably do a little scraping and bluing to fit. May try some of the old middle bearings, they spec out when removed. This time with some tap to get a tighter fit on the installer. Anybody know if the center oil passage is the early or later block? Or did it vary in the same year ?

  3. #3Tinkerer2024-02-23 16:50

    Cam bearings aren't too expensive. get another set. Have a machine shop make a new bushing installer with a hole in the center. You can then use all thread to R&R the bushings without pounding them in. No tags on the blocks. They have numbers cast on them when they poured the mold in the foundry

  4. #4Laker822024-03-05 17:45

    Tinker , I have a paper 580 C manual and a download of a 580 D manual. The info does not always match up real well. I did measure the new clevite bearings before install. All spot on the exterior dim. Most were at the minimum installed dim before install. One interior was actually already above the max wear limit before installation. I put that one in the #3 spot as it was the tightest no fit the first go around. #4 has a 1/4 and a 3/8 web casting interference before the full bore circumference is reached. A real bear to get started without a real nice installer. The kind I do not have. # 5 when installed either did not line up with oil hole or stuck out over the lifter when following the manuals. Put it in backwards to get a oil hole fit and lifter clearance. Looks fine. Should pump oil to the rockers. I ended up using my installer bushings, a threaded rod and an old steel v belt pully to pull all bearings in rather than driving them with the actual installer. # 5 was .004 tighter than the minimum clearance when installed.At minimum on the bench. I did scrape the babbit on # 5 ( with real bearing scrapers) while blue checking the fit. Blue checked each bearing at final check. All did a transfer without hot spots. Rolls easily if a little stiff. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. One set of #s looks like a serial #. The other block I make no sense to me. Appreciate your advise.