I just purchased a new to me Case 450B dozer with 6/way blade. Dozer has set up for over 10 years but has had the undercarriage replaced at some time and looks to be better than 80%. I've got it to start and it runs great. I've replaced the suction hose at the transmission due to it being bad. The previous owner stated it set up due to transmission stop pulling. The reservoir was empty so I refilled and added coolant. after adding the 2 the radiator pushed out transmission fluid and coolant very quick. I know that this is a result usually of the oil cooler in radiator failing. I also noticed that the torque convertor PSI maxes out the gouge when running. This should only be at 25-35 PSI. My question is could the excessive pressure blow the oil cooler? I'm planning to replace but don't want the same thing to happen again if root cause is excessive pressure.
I would not think it would blow it as it just dumps back into the case
I was kind of thinking the same. At 125.00 a bucket for the transmission fluid I can't be too cautious. Thanks
You could connect the two cooler lines with a tee and put a pressure gauge in it to see what the actual pressure is. Rubber hoses with clamps can be slipped over the ends of the lines to make a simpler connection without hard fittings.
I will consider that. On another note has anyone purchased a radiator off ebay for there dozer? There appears to be some cheap alternatives compared to the some of the others.
I'm with Tinkerer I'd like to know what the pressure is at the cooler. The torque convertor relief valve could be stuck and causing the problem. You could get an external cooler for trans and not worry about replacing the rad if it's good.
I'm with you on pressure at the cooler. Update I did notice that cooler appears as if it may be stopped up. This would explain the failure and possibly the excessive pressure. I also thought of an external cooler. I will weigh my options once I get cost from radiator shop to compare. 1st I have to get the dang radiator out fully. I've removed the grill, X brace and fan. I have the blade raised and chained for transport. Does the radiator come out the front if I lower blade?
Yes lower the blade and then the radiator will come out the front, you will have to remove the headlight assembly after you remove the grille and X brace.
Okay guy I got the radiator in it fixed lower hose at transmission. Drive shaft spins torque convertor pressure gauge jumps when putting in gear. I get nothing at the tracks no movement. I'm at a loss. I adjusted cams on brake lever to set at lowest meaning brakes aren't applied. I purchased dozer understanding that it wouldn't move. Previous owner said it use to run strong but after using it would get sluggish. I got it after setting 10 years transmission fluid was empty filled with Hytrans and still no movement. What should I look at now?
There should be a pick up strainer in the transmission case check that first
The strainer is on the side of the engine just before the trans pump. Loosen the small line coming out of trans pump and see if you get any fluid.
Confirmed that the pump is pumping driveshaft spinning brakes released. It appears that it is in neutral no movement at all. I do see slight jump in gauge once I shift high low levers. The guy I got it from said that he removed a c-clip back at the PTO. I don't see what that would have to do with it being immobile.
Check your hi/lo range pedals in the floor right in front of seat to make sure the gear box is engaged. BTW you have to shut engine off to shift the gear box.
I think that you may be on to something with that. I had to free the 3 transmission levers due to being seized. The high low lever appears to be seized also. So it would make since that it could have the fork in neutral or there is something wrong with it. I will work on trying to free it up tomorrow. Is there a inspection cover to remove to gain access.
Okay the range lever isn't froze but it won't change selection.i don't know what range it is in. I'm thinking it is in between high and low putting me in a neautral position. I can't push forward as if it's hitting on something. I think this is approaching the uh oh territory. I saw where some one said the trans doesn't have to be removed to get range section out. Oh course if there is a way to get it to move that doesn't involve too much work is appreciated.
You will need to remove the brake housing and backing plates to get the hi-lo range housing off. Check all of your linkage and make sure it is all free.
Linkage free so looks like I gotta go in. Wish me luck and thanks for all the help so far.
Good luck! If you can jack machine up and put some 8x8 blocks under tracks it would be easier to work on it from underneath.