Hello, I need to repair the track tensioning cylinder on the Case 455. So far I can't locate a master-link, although the back side is kinda hard to see. I've got it clean, but they all look alike. I can't find a dimple with a roll pin, or a set screw, or anything of the sort. We've had mud here before, but this we have now is a masterpiece. I gotta move some of it so the baby calves don't get trapped in it. Hate to use the loader tractor for this job when the "Track" is so much more suitable. Thanks Mike
The 455B parts book shows the master pin as having a dimple in it. Could it be that someone along the line has pressed in a regular pin?
Part R24617 I looked it up so I could see what you described. They all have that shallow hole in the end. Surely they are not all master-links, but if so I should be able to drive one out. Do I need more than nine pounds of persuasion to get one started moving? The part drawing doesn't seem to show any means of fastening for the pin, other than I suppose, a healthy dose of friction. I reckon I'll need to find someone dumb enough to hold the drift for me so I can drive with both hands.
From memory the hole in the master pin is around 1/4" diameter and should be facing the outside of the track. It must be driven toward the center or inside of the track. the master pin has some relief on the end where the identifying hole is and the track link is also a bit smaller so once the pin is pushed out around an inch, (25mm), it should slide out with out to much friction. The master pin should be tight and will require a lot of force to remove. Be careful not to flare the end of the pin if you use a drift and sledge hammer. If you have sealed and lubricated tracks the master link will split in half and you will need to remove the track plate to allow this to happen. Hope that helps.
Bingo! Thanks, Thanks and thanks again. Those are holes with plugs in the ends of the pins, and once I was able to envision what the master links pictured for the lubricated track would look like when installed, finding them was easy. So far I have one bolt out of the track plate, but the others are worn down some and not giving the six-point socket much grip. I may grind the socket flat on the end, removing the bevel, to gain a little more surface. I figure on buying new bolts when I order the kit for the tensioner. I would estimate it took about 120 pounds of pull to move the first one. I thought sure it would snap.
Easiest to just grind the heads off or wash away the heads with a torch, once you get the track shoe off and the master link split, you can heat the bolt near the bottom end, apply some penetrating oil or as some prefer melted candle wax, let it cool and spin them out with visegrips or a nut welded on the bolt shank. :my2c
Sounds like the plan. Torching them will undo the tension on the threads and heat 'em up at the same time. Not to mention preventing me from wringing them off flush and having to drill 'em out. I have promised myself to avoid that in future if possible.