Hello, My starter has packed up on my 1985 Case 485 tractor, it was made in England but I suspect that the engine is the same as produced in other countries. Can someone advise me the part number for a set of brushes, and any other advice you may feel useful, thankyou.
The engine is a D-179 Neuss diesel built in Germany, they were used from the early 70's up into the 90's. IIRC they used Delco, Bosch and Lucas starters, depending on the age and application. First place I would look is your local Case IH dealer, if you still have one around. Even if they can't get the parts they will be able to look up the part numbers and then you can search aftermarket. If you want to check online, Messicks is a good place for Case IH parts, again, if nothing else to get a P/N. https://messicks.com/
Reman starter for both the Bosch and the Magnetti is 189330A5R, CNH says it is orderable, but no warehouse in NA has stock. The brushes are long obsolete as well from CNH.
Hello, yes thank you. I did look up the Messicks site and saw the number for the remanufactured starter, I am English but live in France but by using that part number I have found one over here for 170 Euros, plus delivery, thank you and your colleagues for your help. I couldn't find the brushes.
With the starter on the bench I connected a good battery, took power to the solenoid and it worked straight away and fast, so I put the starter back on the tractor and tried it, click nothing. I disconnected the tractor battery and connected my other battery directly to the starter, the same as on the bench and click. I do not understand. There were no stiff bearings, the solenoid had worked fine off the tractor, for it to spin fast on the bench I suspect the brushes cannot be that bad. I have had no suggestion of a seized engine, the oil is up to level and not dirty, no suggestion of water in a cylinder causing it to hydraulick. Might it just be a dirty commutator. The earth to the starter is good. It cannot be the starter switch because I bypassed it. Out of my pitiful league it seems. I suppose I will have to open it up and see what I find.
Clean and check the entire ground side of the circuit, mounts, bolts, cables, etc. Could also be the cables themselves have corroded/deteriorated internally and need to be replaced.
I have checked continuity between the earth battery clamp and engine block, fine, plus when I connected the other battery not installed into the tractor to the starter motor it was completely different cabling, the earth clamp then was connected to the head of a cleaned bolt which held the starter in place.
Have installed a new battery, have put a duplicate earth between the battery and a clean bolt on the engine to add earth if needed, 12.49 volts at the starter. Nothing, a slight bump from starter and both ignition and oil pressure lights go out until the switch is released. Only thing I can think might be the problem would be the starter switch, do they go wrong? I have never had that issue before. I am truly fed up, and getting more broke by the minute.
Sorry for you troubles. Is there any way you could post a picture of the starter area. It may have worked fine on the bench but the bendix may be getting jammed in the ring gear. You could try loosening one or both of the starter mounting bolts. If you have a ground through one of those bolts, you may have to move it.
It is me who should be sorry, my aged brain is so addled I wrote battery when I should have written starter. I fitted a brand new STARTER, Boosted the earth side, checked all cables from the switch to the starter and ZILCH except for a slight clunk and warning lights went out until I released the switch from the sprung start position. I have ordered a brand new switch which should arrive in a couple of days, I have checked that all the tabs are correct on the new switch. I have never suffered a faulty starter switch before, but as they seem to be on sale, that might indicate that they can go faulty. Everything seems to be breaking this year, and following spinal fusion reconstruction I am not working and therefore my income has dropped. Who did I upset, hopefully not Mr. Trump.
OK, I am just about at rock bottom now. I have replaced the starter, and the starter switch, have checked all cables, although some go into multiple cables, I have put a second earth between the battery and a bare connection on the engine block to ensure a good earth, battery at 12.5 V, have swapped battery for another with good voltage. When I turn the starter switch I just hear a very gentle clunk from the solenoid, not the solid noise you would normally expect. I have checked the engine to make sure it has not seized as far as I can check. If you look at the engine from the front I think that it turns clockwise, with the starter removed I can turn the flywheel clockwise, bit by bit, so what is going on? Any suggestions?
I have just taken the starter off and put it on a plastic tub beside the tractor, all still connected, taken an earth from the battery to the starter same thing, starter did not turn, neither did the solenoid throw the gear. I did try taking a separate cable to the solenoid tab, no change. I will change the battery again. It would be good to know where each cable goes so I could duplicate them.
I wonder if coincidentally both batteries I have been trying while showing 12.5v or more may have a faulty cell therefore giving inadequate amps.
Sounds like you have bad contacts in the starter solenoid. Has someone added an additional solenoid to the system. This isn’t rocket science. Turn key to start, voltage to starter solenoid. Solenoid trip large current through batter positive, large amperage through solenoid, trip plunger to ground and bendix shoots out and gearing in starter turns flywheel ring gear, turns motor over and the mot starts.
Is that the ignition switch that is currently on machine? Can see greenies on the terminal at top. If those terminals get hot they will loosen enough to cause issues. Have you tried cleaning switch connections or swapping out the switch?
So in the end, and after wasting a lot of time and money, I find out that the fitted battery had a faulty cell, and the one I replaced it with which I was certain was in very good order must have also had a faulty cell, tried a third battery and it started straight away. Sorry for wasting your time.
It happens. I found out a long time ago that a simple multi-meter voltage test of a battery is only a mere guess at its condition. More than once I've gone down a similar rabbit hole that you did with a 'good' battery, only to find the battery was actually shot, despite reading 12+ volts. A load tester is the only way to accurately test a battery IMO. What is even more frustrating is getting new parts that are bad out of the box, had that more than once with cheap electrical components. Makes troubleshooting a real PITA.