I have an early 60s 530ck with a 188 diesel. I'm doing an in frame rebuild as it's froze up. The cylinder seals were leaking and number 2 and 3 cylinders were cracked. I need to rotate the engine to pull the rod caps but I can't seem to free up 2 and 3 pistons. I've tried blunt force, heat and soaking with pb blaster. Machine rolls in neutral so I know I'm not fighting the transmission. Anyone have some thoughts or ideas on this.
Has the engine rolled at all? It may have a bent rod that is striking the block internally. ATF works the best for removing a ring rust lock but it may need to sit for a few days.
I have the oil pan off and looked everything over. I don't believe that to be the case. I was also wondering if something with the fuel injection timing was the issue. Seems unlikely though. Cylinders are clean not rusty.
If it dropped a valve it could be jamming the piston.
I pulled the head off. It's been rebuilt along with the injectors.
Remove the pump drive coupler on the front of the engine and see if it will roll. If not, remove the starter motor and try again at the flywheel teeth.
I have the front pump off and had a pipe wrench on the coupler and couldn't move it. Was a couple years ago. Cleaned out the cylinders and threw in some atf to soak for a few days
Worse case scenario --> cut the nuts off the caps, or cut the connecting rods and drive the sleeves out with the pistons and rods in with them. Removing the engine from the tractor would make things a lot easier no matter what you do.
I would agree but it all depends if parts are available to replace any that you destroy taking it apart.
New and used connecting rods are available from a lot of vendors. It is super important to protect any crankshaft crankshaft that may be exposed from damage. If the tractor has a torque convertor the engine should be removed so that the flex plate can be inspected for cracks.
Just a clutch in this one. I have a 680 and a 450 crawler that have the torque converter.