I've got a Case 550E with a leaking track adjuster. I just got my service manual this morning and the track removal procedure involves a special hydraulic press tool for the master link. I'm sure there's an "at home" way to do this. Can anyone explain a blow by blow procedure for breaking down the track? Any help is appreciated! Thanks, Greg
Find the master pin, should have a dimple in it or some other mark to identify it. Remove track pads in front and rear of that pin joint so you have room to work. Heat the outside ears of the link with a torch and find a good piece of hard, round stock just slightly smaller than the pin to drive it out with a sledge. I have a home-made jack stand that holds my driving tool since I'm always alone. You'll need a brave helper with some long water pump pliers or something to hold it. Good Luck!
So, how do you back up the chain while you beat on the pin. Where is the best place to have the link when you start driving on it, one end or other, center roller? thanks, Greg
Roll the tracks until the master pin is about half way to two thirds up on the rear of the sprocket. This way the sprocket will hold the outer link while you pound on it. Get the links red hot on both sides before starting to drive the pin out. Usually a few more good swings will push it on through the inner link. On a side note for installation, file or grind the mushroom head, just the head not the entire pin, on the master pin that you likely put on it when you drove it out then put the pin in the freezer about 24 hours before you get ready to install it. Put a floor jack under your pad on the lower section of track to hold it in place. Insert your bevel washers and align the upper and lower chain links as close as possible. Now get your pin from the freezer with some plires and run like hell back to your track chain and begin driving it in. Still won't fall in place, but this should make it easier.
Thanks, guys for the advice. Do I need to heat the links again to reinstall the pin? I take it from what JFoshee said that it's OK to reuse the old master link pin? Greg
I would think that a 550 (if still has factory fitted tracks :beatsme) may have some type of joiner link rather than the old 'bash out' master pin. I can't be 100% certain though. Take a good look at the chains is one link different to all the others?
In the service manual they show two options; the "Case lubricated track" that does have a bolt together master and the "sealed" track with the press out pin. On the CLT there are rubber plugs in the pins. Mine does not have the rubber plugs, so I'm assuming it's the regular sealed track. It is the original undercarriage, the machine only has 1854 hours. The bushings and pins were turned right before I got it. Thanks, Greg
You should not have to reheat the pin to install. However you may need to get a brave soul to hold a large sledge on the inside link when the pin is going through it. Sometimes it will ty to spread apart. Try to have all hammers, line up bars, helpers, etc. ready and within arms length when you start with the chilled pin. It usually goes in pretty good when it is cold. Yes you should be able to reuse the same master pin. You are correct. If the pins do not have a rubber pin in one end, usually the outside, then you most likely have the sealed tracks. If you are positive this is the origional U/C then it will have the drive out master pin. As 02DMAX said the master pin will have a dimple in the end, the others should be smooth.