I'm going to look at a 580ck tomorrow morning and was wondering if there were any particular concerns that I should look for. I know engines, hydraulics, and electrical, but each machine has it's own nuances. The machine has new injector pump, radiator, battery, and new hydraulic lines installed in the past year or two. The tires look ok for tread and hold air. Could use some paint but what machine from 1970 doesn't? Same owner for 20yr, used for clearing snow in the winter and not much of anything in the summer. No ROPS/cab, missing some sheet metal to cover battery and associated areas. Can't tell if it's stick or shuttle from pictures.
I can't figure out how to edit my original post, but I should mention that this machine would be used for small farm use, leveling, bushes, etc. Not to make a living.
Do a search on 580CK, as this topic has been covered here with lots of good info. Condition of the hydraulic cylinder rods and wear on the various backhoe bushings are points to look at. If you can rock the backhoe when its up off the ground, it will indicate how much wear there is. Power Shuttle can be an issue, but if it has one and it can move easily, you should be ok. The loader arms can be cracked and look for damage in the top of the loader towers. If you have the right machine and look after it, it will do a lot of work for many years. Other details can be found by searching the posts. For parts and pieces, like the battery floorboard cover, Wengers and others in your area will have some being dismantled. Jess
Thanks for the info. Just got back from checking it out, and I think it's a go. Two lines have leaks to the bucket, he's replacing them both for me. The new radiator cap doesn't line up with the hood, so he's going to cut it and put it all back together. The injector pump, hydraulic pump, radiator, and most lines have been replaced recently. The only thing that is left that concerns me is the brakes. They work, but to well. Press the pedal and the rear wheels lock, instead of being gradual. I would guess it to be a linkage issue that needs adjusted, but I'm not sure.
All of the rams were in good condition with no leaks, just the two hoses. There was no damage to the laoder arms, no repair points, so that seems good. All the pins were good, except one at the bucket had been replaced with something a hair small, and was loose. There was a snap ring at the rear bucket that was missing as well.
The brakes are not the best at any time, but as they wear, the grooves in the plate the the balls run on will become rough and cause the brakes to jam. Not the best if you are on a hill and one side locks up. I suggest you get the manual and look up the parts list on the Case site so you can see what needs to be taken apart and cleaned up or replaced. Years ago, I had a near roll over when the left side locked up going down a steep driveway. I removed and replaced the balls and disc and have had not trouble since. I don't think any adjustment will solve the lock up issue but a clean up might. Have fun with your new acquisition. One of the pictures shows what looks like a can of starting fluid in the tool bin behind the battery. Be very careful with using any as a bit too much can ruin an engine. A block heater will give the extra warmth for cold starts if it has that issue. A good diesel should start without either in normal temperatures. Jess
That makes sense, I'll look into sourcing new balls and plates. I never use starting fluid in my diesels. I'm not even sure how that would work with the oil bath air filter. My guess is they had trouble because the choke cable was disconnected. I want a cab for it. I've built cabs for my other tractors for winter use. My only concern is, if a worst case roll occurs, I'm trapped and can't get out as it rolls, and with no ROPS I'd be in trouble. Does the factory cab have ROPS built in and the cab over it, or is it the same scenario? This will be my first TLB, I'm an accountant by day and a back yard diesel mechanic by night. I got to mess around with a ford 4500 a friend rented years back but that's about it.
Ok I'm looking at the diagram for hte brakes. It looks similiar to some other's I've seen, but I don't recall seeing it on the tractor. At any rate, It looks like it's the rotating disk and band clamps that tighten. Is this what you're talking about? It was my impression that as these wore, braking power became less and you had to adjust linkage. I'm not sure I understand how it can lock a back wheel when I work through it, unless there's a burr. I would think that would just be sheared off though. $55 for hte band set, $245 for the whole assembly
I'll have to wait for delivery so I can take it apart and see what's going on. They're simple systems, but parts are pricey.
The part that will be worn or need cleaning is listed in the diagram as #12. The 4 balls are #13. When the band is compressed on the drum, the drum should stop rotation, causing the balls to move in the inclined grooves in the disc, causing pressure against the disc linings. If the ramped grooves or the balls are dirty, rusted or worn, they will jamb and lock the brake up. I didn't need to replace the entire assembly, just the balls and the disc plate with the grooves for the balls. I'd suggest taking the assembly off and seeing what condition its all in before buying all the parts. A good machine shop may be able to clean up the grooves if they were worn like mine. As this is farm tractor stuff, I'd check the aftermarket for better pricing. When I needed a water pump for my 188D, I got it from a supplier that carries farm tractor parts, way cheaper than Case. Some other parts may be only Case but there are lots of good aftermarket suppliers for most bits, at a competitive price. Jess