Hello, Have posted in previous post regarding ignition electrical short. Backhoe stopped dead while plowing snow. Found out that the ignition wire was shorted out . Disconnected ignition wire from ignition switch and disconnected same white wire from starter solenoid. Made a jumper wire from battery positive to starter solenoid and fuel solenoid and was able to restart machine but now machine will not move forward or reverse. I lifted the machine off ground with stabilizers and front bucket and wheels seem to move very slow in forward and reverse and I'm able to move wheels by hand so I don't think it's a parking brake issue. Any thoughts? ThANKS
I may be wrong because i don't really know what i'm talking about but I think the wire to the shut of solenoid should be going through a relay. I was told they only use 12 volts to activate then a small current to hold them open , maybe the mechanic telling me that didn't know either? I had one burn up and had to replace it is why I talked to a mechanic and asked him what would cause it. Sounds like maybe your clutch button on the loader control is engaged now with your jumper wires some how.
Bill might be right on the solenoid.. it just depends on which injection pump you have.. If the solenoid is small and screws into the pump, your ok w/ 1 wire.. If it bolts onto the inj. pump and has 3 wires and a rod that moves a lever.. take the jumper off and just tie it up w/ wire or zip ties.. Sorry, cant help w/ movement..
I think you are going to have to find and eliminate that short to get the transmission to shift. Unless you can rig up a way to energize the solenoids in it. This is from the Series 3 /Tier 3 parts book.
Check the relays behind the steering wheel. Had the same problem last year and it was just a bad relay.
Thanks for all the replies. Wouldn't the fact that wheels move very, very slowly in forward and reverse indicate that electronics to the clutch cut out button on the loader control and transmission gear shifter are functioning? Thanks.
The valve body shafts have been known to hang up and not allow enough pressure to build up. With my relay problem it was bad when the machine was cold but as it warmed up it it got better. Acted like a slipping converter. It had been like that since new. Once I changed the relay it was like a whole other machine. The relays are all the same so you can swap them around to see if it helps.
How did you determine the ignition wire was shorted out ? Blown fuse or fuses ? Wire burnt ? Any chance it is an ignition switch failure ?
I was plowing snow and machine suddenly died completely. Saw a little smoke coming from side console by ignition switch. Shut off switch and smoking stopped. Opened up side console and saw harness on ignition was a bit melted. Disconnected white ignition wire from switch. Tested switch and it's ok. Accessory side works fine. Tried jumper wire from Bat to ignition wire, sparked. Checked ignition wire with tester light and it's grounded. Disconnected the white ignition wire at starter solenoid . It was grounded out there too. Jumper wired starter solenoid from battery and manually connected fuel pump as PUMPGUY suggested and machine started right up but no forward or reverse .
I would suggest that you need to start separating the ign. wire from the harness until you came to the end of the melted/ damaged section. That should be where it grounded out, unless it goes to a relay or some other component that failed and caused the dead short.
I would get a ohmmeter to test for shorted wiring. The testlight is not going to really tell you if it's shorted. It will light up even if there is a legitimate load on the wire. I know you are not back at the shop and you probably don't have any electricity where you are at, but a small 10 amp battery charger works well for troubleshooting something like this. It has a circuit breaker built in, just hook the leads to ground and your wire, if it trips keep tracing circuits and wiring till the battery charger quits tripping. This is a good way to keep from burning up your harness.
Good point. I might have recommended the test light, and misled you. If it didn't blow a fuse or trip a breaker, then it probably wasn't shorted. The ohm meter will tell you. You might just have to cut the burned wire back to where it's good and splice in a new wire and connector to go to the switch. Also, just because the switch had voltage, didn't mean it can carry the current it has to when running. Hook the wire back up and see what it does. The wheels are turning because of cold oil in the clutches dragging. The emergency brake is releasing, but the trans is not engaging because it's getting no power.
Thanks Guys, I appreciate all the help. I will go back at it tomorrow and let you know what I find.