I do a lot of front end work with this loader around the farm(composting, pushing over small trees, etc.). If I use it for more than 30-45 minutes it will start hesitating when shifting between forward and reverse. When it first started happening I starting using second gear instead of first and that helped for a while. Now if the machine is cold it works fine. If its warm then it will take a second after shifting to drop into gear. If its hot then it won't go into gear unless you give it throttle and then it jerks. A little backstory: I got this machine about 8 months ago and it worked great for quite some time but I did a lot of brush clearing and then this started happening. Since then I have retired it to occasional light duty until I can get it working properly. I haven't changed or added any fluids since I bought it but they all look clean and full. I would be enormously grateful for any advice.
Welcome to HEF manualplat! There could be a number of things causing your problem. What you are describing is a classic symptom of low oil level. You should check the shuttle oil level with the engine idling. Is that how you have checked yours?
I checked it while cold yesterday and it was halfway up the operating range. Checked it running and warm and it wasn't on the stick at all. After adding 1.5 quarts it was just below the full mark(running/warm). I was sure that was the problem so I left it at that. Went to use it today and ran fine until it got hot, checked the oil and its an inch above the full mark. All the hydraulics we in the 'rest' position when checking the oil. I'm stumped.
While the engine is running the shuttle oil is circulating through the oil cooler & convertor, when engine is stopped the oil drains from the cooler & convertor back to sump - hence it is an inch overfull. The hydraulics in 'rest' position? - I assume you are saying the loader frame is resting on the ground? If so, the loader/hoe hydraulics are unrelated to the shuttle oil. It has it's own reservoir built in to the chassis of the tractor. Getting back to your problem, if the shuttle oil level is correct, while idling, & the problem still exists these are your options - 1) Transmission control valve could be 'overselecting' What this means is that the stops for forward & reverse are worn at the shuttle control valve linkage & housing. When engaging forward you are going past the proper loction for it to work & the porting inside the housing is not lined up how it should be. Gently move the lever to fwd & see if the detent spring is clicking in, & if it will then travel past the detent position for fwd. 2) There is an oring on the pick up sreen in the shuttle - it could be not sealing correctly. Drain the oil & remove the oil pan, pull out the screen & see if oring is OK. Pulling the oil pan will let you see if there is any trash in it. If stops are good & screen oring is OK .....>>> 3) You need to remove the shuttle & put a seal kit through it - which is an overhaul. Take a good look at the pump while there.
Thanks for the quick replies. I will try tackling this over the next month or so and will keep you updated.
Are you checking the right fluid? It would not matter if your hydraulics were at rest or not as far as the level of your transmission fluid level. The hydraulics for the loader and backhoe are separate from the transmission. Are you checking on the dipstick on the right hand side in the engine compartment above the starter? Scott
Yes that is the fluid level I was checking. The only dipsticks I saw was that one and engine oil.
Just went out and looked at it again. The hydraulic lines I saw coming out go to the power steering pump not the hydraulic pump, so that's irrelevant. I just kind of assumed that they shared a reservoir since my other shuttle shift tractor does. I played with the shuttle control lever and it does travel about 15 degrees further after the tranny bumps into gear. Gonna work with it tomorrow and carefully switch gears to see if that is the problem.
If you have to put a seal kit in the transmission, make sure you replace the bellville spring in the shuttle assembly. On older machines this will crack from metal fatigue and result in difficulty shifting from from forward to neutral to reverse. Rather than just putting a seal kit in, I would get a complete rebuild kit for about $300. Doing the rebuild is not for the faint of heart. There's a guy in my neck of the woods that rebuilds the transmissions for $1,800.