I am replacing the ring and pinion, that’s done. I found it helpful to place it vertically with the input end up. That allowed me to stack the gears and spacers properly and send the new pinion up through the stack. On to my problem. As I re assemble with all original bearings, I did replace the oil seals on the bearing carriers. I did not keep good track of the left and right side bearing carriers. I have assembled them both ways. If I tighten everything together it puts too much pressure on the differential and the unit doesn’t spin freely. I am referring to the differential not the ring and pinion. If I loosen the 4 bolts on each brake housing it spins as it should. It seems like I need more shims? But how could that be? I see in the exploded diagram the 2 internal washers, I researched this thinking maybe I screwed that up? I have re assembled this 4 or 5 times now. Does it matter which side the bearing retainers go on? I see them listed as two different part numbers so I assume so. I can’t find anything stamped on them.
It does matter which side the thrust washers part #11 in the manual go on for proper side gear spacing they come in 6 different thicknesses, don't understand the bearing retainer reference, anything bearing related is the same side to side. If problem is gone when you loosen brake housing maybe one of your brake drum assys. is stuck partially expanded. May be something to look at.
Thank you. I have had the same results with the brakes off and the bolts snugged down with spacers. It seems I need more shims even though nothing has changed
Welcome to HEF @shamushoran You are correct that the carrier side plates are the same, however the original shim stacks are not, so if you mixed the plates, I assume you mixed the shim stacks. Not all crownwheel & pinion sets are exactly the same, often (depending on the maker) there is a slight difference, hence you build the transaxle to suit. The left side shim pack controls the crownwheel & pinion backlash & the right side controls the bearing pre-load. Often a shim or two needs to be shuffled, added or subtracted to get the build spec correct. All this set up (which may take a few goes to get it right) is usually done without the seals being fitted - once you get the shims where they should be & everything measures & feels right, then the seals & orings are installed on the final fit up. Also, as @stinky64 has mentioned, those internal thrust washers are different thicknesses & assembly needs to be checked by standing the crownwheel cross-shaft vertically & measuring the clearance of the side gear with the 3 spider/hemesphere gears using a dial gauge - if that is not done right, the gears will also bind. I'm also hoping that the cross-shaft & crownwheel carrier are still tight, with no movement. If there is some play there, this will affect the life of your new gearset. You don't mention that you have a service manual, I hope you do, it explains most of what I have mentioned above - it's vital to measure everything & get clearances & preloads right, or you will be doing this again real soon.
Thank you very much. I have extensive experience with truck ring and pinion insulations. This carrier is definitely new to me. I need to find my manual. We moved shops and it’s still packed in a moving box. It’s the spider/ side gears that are too tight. I can imagine why? Only changed the ring and pinion. The shim packs did stay with the bearing retainers. I have tried them on both sides. I recall the small internal shims I am going to strip it down again and have a look at them. It shows two in the diagram. I’m hoping if I remove one it will alleviate the excessive preload. And the differential spiders will be spinning freely again
I wish I had not installed the new seals. The left side likes to cause the spring to come out from the seal. Luckily I have not damaged it yet.
The difference in what you’re saying is the aftermarket ring and pinions or bigger, I mean the ring gear is thicker which if you don’t machine off about .100 of the ring gear, your carrier will be to the left and you won’t have enough shims to set the preload on the Crown carrier Machine in the ring gear it opens the backlash so you can shift the crown carrier to the right, I found out the hard way thankfully I got a lathe and mill. if you don’t do this, the bolts that hold the ring gear on will hit the bull gear on the left side.