Hi, my backhoe has sat for a few months just been busy with other things. Anyway. When I started it, it wouldn’t move fwd or rev except for an inch or so. It seemed like the brakes were being held. Anyway, I rocked it back and forth a few times and finally broke free. It keeps doing it, once I get it free it seems to work properly. It does seem to make more noise than I remember. What’s concerning is when it breaks free, I can hear and feel a metallic sound as if something in the transmission is binding and breaking when I get it to move. I tried moving it to first gear and it took everything I had to move the shifter forward. Same to move it back, I didn’t even try 3rd or 4th. Same issue in first gear. The guy I bought it from removed the original instrument cluster and disconnected or cut all the wires to the remaining switches. I believe it has (or had) a clutch cutout though not sure what it was for. The wiring now is very basic, battery cutoff switch, start switch ammeter and an indicator light for the one wire alternator. Is there something electrical that might be causing this even though there’s something clearing mechanical involved? Trans fluid is full, I did too it off with Hytran fluid. I think I’ve used it before. Is there a specific oil that I’m not using that could be the culprit? Thanks.
I think you should remove the top cover of the transaxle (the part with the shifter) and inspect. You may have a bearing going bad. Definitely would not move it anymore. I would also drop the drain plug for the rear differential too. Check for metal. Transmission countershaft is also the pinion shaft.
There are no electrical controls or devices in the transmission. Does your tractor have a clutch pedal (mechanical shuttle) ? If it has a clutch do the gears grind when you shift the transmission with the motor running ? Do you have or need the service manual ?
On my 480c I had problems with the brakes sticking. Makes a definite clunk when it lets loose. I would be fine till you hit the brakes again. Sometimes it would stick, usually on one side, sometimes not. I found I had to take the floorboard out, and lubricated the hand brake which was sticking, and also lubricate the linkages to the hand brake and the levers at the wheel cylinders. If you put the seat back in after you take the floorboard out, you can see how everything works and if it's still giving you trouble. I had to put penetrate on it several times before it finally straightened out. I am assuming you have the fwd/rev lever left of the steering wheel? If you do you have the shuttle shift transmission, make sure you have fluid in it. The fill is on the right side behind the engine panel. You can also drain the shuttle, pull the little "oil pan" and then clean it out and the suction filter on it.
No clutch, just brakes for each side and a combined pedal. No grinding when switching gears 1-4 as long as my fwd/reverse lever is in N. I have a service manual.
I’m certainly going to look into this. When I got the backhoe, the brakes didn’t work cuz the master cylinders were rotten. I replaced both but damaged the brake line for the right side. Left brake works great I just haven’t got around to rebuilding another line for the right side. Now that you mentioned it I think it goes back to locking up when I press the brakes. Not looking forward to messing with that floor pan.
You can check the brake levers from under the machine (the part that pivots down to pressurize the slave cylinder) part #1 page 154 of the parts book if you have it. The levers are attached to the brake housings on both sides with a greaseable pivot pin that is most likely sticking. When I first got my C I thought the trans. was shot because both levers were seized and the machine would barely move. As far as the shifter issue is concerned I agree with Acecadet about the transmission top cover removal, if it sat for a while and there was excessive moisture in the case your shift rails are probably corroded and need some attention. But look at the bright side, when you remove the floor pan to get the cover off all your brake parts will be readily accessible.
Thanks for the tip. The parking brake has never worked. I never really touch it, but it’s certainly worth looking into.
Thought I saw it recently, check out the thread Case 580B stuck gear shifter from Neal Bags july25, 2022 back on page 5, check the pictures, may be what you've got going on with your shift issue.
I sure will, thanks.
UPDATE: It’s more than likely a brake issue. As long as I don’t use the brake, it moves fwd and rev like it should. Press the brake and it locks up. Now to figure out what’s wrong with the left brake
Taking the floorboard out is a real pain. But it beats laying on your back reaching way up in there to work on this. I left the floor board out for several years as I was working on it and figuring out how things worked. Just about a year ago I put it back in place, but DID NOT reinstall it in one large piece like original. I took a cutting torch and cut it in half in front of the seat mount, and then used metal straps and threaded the floorboard plate to tie it back together. Much easier to remove just the front piece and it's a lot lighter. It's a piece of cake working on the brakes if the floorboard is out. These are the only brakes I have ever bled by myself. Reach over and press the brake pedal with one hand, and open the bleeder with the the wrench in the other hand.
Awesome tip, thanks. I was actually contemplating “forgetting” to put it back in. Do the fenders need to be removed too?
No