Hey y'all my case 580c slowly stopped going into fwd gear . if I'm going downhill its fine, but flat land and up is a no go. Read so many posts I'm more confused than when i started. I have drained it pump was clean reassembled and filled with prem tractor fluid. no better. Reverse is still strong, but I'm at a loss were to go from here. Ive read that it may be the linkage, but moved the lever fwd manually to no avail. My guess is that if it was bc i dont have hy tran in there it would be the same problem in reverse. IDK if thats accurate or not btw when on stabilizers tires spin fwd and reverse. just not on ground. please help and thanks in advance
One possibility is that the belleville washers in the forward clutch pack may be broken. Do you have a service manual ?
unfortunately i do not. Im in the process of downloading one, but it all seems to be ads
I had a 580ck that needed a rebuild on the power shuttle, orings were nicked and the clutch packs were toast.
how hard was all that fast_st
Well, it was interesting, I had ordered the service manual, have never split a tractor before and the machine only had an aftermarket cab. With the cab out of the way, unbolting the loader frame from the rear axle then remove rear axle and 4 speed gearbox, make note of the shims on the input shaft and coax the power shuttle out, all told about 16 hours and a lot of parts from the case dealer.
Send me your email address in a Private Message. You will then be able to download it For FREE !
Preesh!! Still can’t find one that isn’t ads.
Thanks.
So I got the manual. Thanks. I’m looking at pressure gauges to test the shuttle as the manual suggests. What kind of pressure gauges will I need ? And is it the next right move?
My ck580 had a clutch pressure gauge on the dash and I think normal was 300 psi The shuttle lever and the 'clutch' pedal work together to send the fluid in the right direction, there should be test ports on the clutch valve. I'm not near my book but I bet someone here knows right off.
Yeah it has a test protocol im going to run once the test gauges arrive. Only dash gauges that work are battery and oil temp. Not sure if thats engine or trans though. Thanks for the tip.
Can you please explain the Clutch pedal and shuttle lever working together? I thought since they all stop the loader/hoe they were all brake?
Your shuttle 580C is totally different animal from fast's 580CK. Your C has a shuttle that is separate unit and can be removed and rebuilt without splitting the tractor. As stated earlier, something probably wrong with forward clutch pack or related parts.
Thanks stinky.. that's a relief.
I’m kind of a newb to clutches and shuttles I’ll keep you posted.
So I’m gonna pull this shuttle out this afternoon and see what I can see. There are quite a few options for me on BrokenTractor. Anyone think I could get by with the shuttle clutch and plate kit or is it best to get the whole rebuild?
Do it right and get the rebuild kit. There is nothing more frustrating that doing a tear down and find that you don't have all the parts and NEW gaskets you need. IMHO.
Spring for the master kit and replace the pump while you're in there. What kind of wrenching experience do you have? Do you have the drive train service manual?
I have the service manual which I believe has the information needed. As far as wrenching… I am a hobbyist at best. I fix what’s wrong with my vehicles (brakes, water pump etc) but this would be a leap for me to say the least.
The one with the torque converter or no? I still have reverse, but I don’t know if that means I can skimp on the torque converter. Thanks for all the advice tinkerer and stinky.
There is a great video on utube for a Case 580 E shuttle and doesn’t look bad.
Kit was referencing did not include torque converter, just new pump. If you're going to attempt this by yourself read the manual TWICE and pay very close attention to detail when taking apart. There's alot of parts in there, keep major components separate and try to lay them out like they came apart. Take pictures and follow the exact directions in the manual and you should be successful (maybe). If you get jammed up stop and ask questions. Make sure your work station and parts are CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. Good luck.
Don't have to split, well that's a big win!!
Thanks Stinky64. I think I’m gonna give it a go. Just cranked her up today and after about fifteen minutes and some tooling around in reverse I had a tiny be of grab going forward. Only at low rpm. Thanks for all the advice I’ll keep you posted. Long as it don’t snow again I should be ready to tackle it in a couple of weeks. Got an oil pan gasket in my 5.7 citadel and brakes in the farm truck first.
Hello Have a 76 or 77 CASE 580C backhoe that just had the Borg Warner shuttle rebuilt with new torque converter and basically has the same issue coming right back at me-- The forward power is weak, reverse is fine-- I now have better than minimum pressures, stall tests still check out as do converter tests too. I had similar numbers just below minimums before the rebuild with the exception of the test for the converter---I figured that was the issue and since I had it out I would do a full rebuild. In the rebuild I found no issues--no burn smell, no debris, no warped plates, no seals with holes rips or tears. I even had 2 old timer mechanics who worked at CASE when these machines were their main bread and butter guiding me thru this. I found that pushing up on the shuttle shifter helped it a little--very little --but in 1st it let me push stone. (noticed this long ago and assumed it was the seals) I then checked to see if the linkages were allowing the valve to move all the way---and it was metal to metal I then took off the cutout solenoid and took off the shift linkage on the metal arm at the end of the valve shaft. I walked over the grinder and took about 1/8" off the forward side so it would move farther forward. I put it all back together----and it now works better than ever, I can be in first gear run into stone pile, spin tires get a full bucket loaded, shift to 3rd and off I go. it even starts off in 4th and can go up a small hill and down the road like a rocket death trap on wheels---- It has not had this much power ever--my dad bought it over 20 years ago to fix tile blow outs---which it did and still does perfectly. Question-- -What is worn or broke to cause this issue that needed me to GRIND it to fix it?
Is it possible the linkage was on reversed? It's been a little while since I did mine but i seem to remember it go go on 2 ways
Thanks for the idea. I never took the plate off the linkage when I did the rebuild. This could of Been the problem from the start. Will look it over soon and report backs. Thanks
Will check ot out. I did not take the linkage off on the rebuild. So this may of been the issue for some time Thanks. Hope to report back a proper and successful fix
Well not reversed---it was all exactly as it should be as shown in repair manual and exploded parts manual. Sure would like some more ideas... Thanks