Hello! I have been using my father in laws 1980’s case super E backhoe, and have identified a couple of problems im hoping to get some help with. Yesterday when I was done using it I noticed the battery was very hot. Ground and power wire also very hot. Any ideas what would cause this? I’m concerned if I don’t address this the battery could explode. This was after probably 3 hours of work. None of the gauges work- suggestions on a good starting point? I assume there must be a ground fault causing all to fail, or all the gauges just went out individually over the years. I’m going to be using this machine a lot over the next couple of months, I want to be sure I’m not overheating things. The front loader clamshell is pretty beat up. I have been trying to find a replacement and can’t seem to find anything online. I broke a small arm on the front loader. I have no idea what its function is, as it doesn’t seem to affect the usability at all. I will upload pictures soon, I’m new to these machines and couldn’t even take a wild guess as to what it’s called. It’s a small, maybe 3/4” round rod that has a fork on the end and a pin through it. The forks snapped. I’m sure I’ll have more questions. Thanks for any help you can provide!!
Ok a little update- I believe the small arm is apart of the antirollback linkage. I will confirm tomorrow.
On your battery problem I'd check the ground cable where it attaches to the frame. Also check the alternator output. On your gauge problem there are two circuit breakers on the side of the engine block above the starter one of them is for the gauges and ROPS electrical. The rod you broke is for the return to dig function for loader bucket.
Thank you for the info! I’ll start digging into the electrical. I have some automotive experience but have never worked on a machine like this. The braided ground wire is definitely old, broken in a few spots, that may be the cause right there. We also have a mysterious draw, if we don’t disconnect the battery it will die after a couple days of sitting. My father in law bought it a few years ago and doesn’t know anything about it other than basic use, so there are definitely some issues we need to work through together. I thought of another question- Is there a way to shift on the fly on these? The only way I’ve figured out how to shift is to stop, put it in neutral, and put it in whatever gear I want. Kind of defeats the purpose of changing gears, it’s hard to get going from a stop in fourth gear. Up until I got it, my FIL never even tried changing gears for fear something would break and he wouldn’t be able to use it. I discovered he’s been using it in 2nd gear this whole time. All gears function fine, I just can’t figure out if shifting on the fly is possible.
Is there a "dump" switch on the shifter for the clutch? On my Ford 555D there's a switch that interrupts the clutch so the gearbox can be shifted on the fly, I'm not that familiar with your particular machine. To be honest, I mostly stay in 2nd (4 speed) all the time myself. The exception being when I really need to push and then I'll drop down to 1st. 3rd and 4th I mostly only use at high speed on the road. I'd never try to start in 4th.
There is a declutch button on the floor under brake pedals. It disengages the shuttle to shift on the go. You can only shift on the go between 2nd and 3rd and 4th. If button doesn’t work just put shuttle lever in neutral while moving then shift.
It should also have a button on top of the loader valve that’s a de clutch switch also. My 580SE never had the floor switch that I could find, not even a hole in the original floor. How did you break the RTD arm?
Ok I do have what I thought is a clutch pedal on the floor, unfortunately it doesn’t work, I’ve tried it a couple times. Looks like I will have to explore that. Here’s a pic of the broken arm, I’m 99% certain it’s the antirollback arm, and I broke the “Cleavus” the parts dealer told me lol. Should be easy to find a replacement. I have no idea how I broke it. I’ve been clearing land in the Pacific Northwest, lots of tall brush and some trees. I’ve been putting her to work pretty hard. It’s also an old machine so probably already weakened previously, and I finished it off.
Another update on the dash- I do get a red alternator light illuminates 100% of the time it’s on. I also briefly get a hydraulic filter light that goes away. So I am getting some power to the dash, just no gauges (rpm, temp sensors, hours, etc). Does that circuit breaker interrupt 100% of power to the dash if it fails?
I will affect the gauges the tach operates off of the alternator directly. Could also affect the declutch button but can't remember for sure.
You can replace the clevis end on that rod.
Ok I found a Clevis thank you! Anyone recognize these wires? They were connected to anything
Ok I got another question! I found a clam bucket about 2 hours away for $2k. It came off a 1992 Case Super K. Reading online it looks like it would fit my super E. Can anyone confirm before I make the trip? I also got measurements from the guy, but won’t be able to get back out to the backhoe for a couple days.
Check your part number on mycnhistore.com
nope wont fit different anything super e and before fits 580cde all the same
I’m sorry but can you clarify- I can’t tell if you are saying nope, it won’t fit different (as in it fits ok) or nope, it won’t fit, it’s different I ask because I’ve found a couple sites advertising a replacement loader, and in the details it shows it fits both a 580 e and 580 k
Check the power lead that runs over the top of the bellhousing, mine rubbed though on the the clamp, got real hot.
Nope, wont fit without some serious welding and cutting. But 2500 is a super deal for a good clam bucket but then there’s the front hydraulic issue that can easily be another grand or more.:
You posted over in the "equipment wanted section", and just so you know, no one can reply in that section. You posted in "equipment wanted" that you are missing a dipstick and a drain plug. The plug itself is likely just pipe thread plug, but of bigger concern is have you been using it all over with no fluid in the rear housing? There's a area on the "machinery trader" website for dismantled machines. You can search by make and model, and some parts will interchange between models. MachineryTrader.com | New & Used Construction Equipment For Sale MachineryTrader.com is the go-to source for buying and selling new & used Construction Equipment. Buyers can find a full range of Skid Steers, Mini Excavators, Excavators, Forklifts, Lifts, Dozers, Trenchers / Cable Plows, Cranes, Loader Backhoes, Wheel Loaders, Forestry Equipment, Drills, Motor... www.machinerytrader.com
Oof, I didn’t realize that! Honestly I have no idea if it has fluid. When he dropped it off to me, he showed me how to check engine oil and hydraulic fluid. I have been reading the service manual and discovered there is A LOT more to it than just checking engine and hydraulic oil, I doubt he’s ever checked the shuttle level as there’s no dipstick. I’d be really surprised if it was low, I’ve put probably 20 hours on it in the last two months and it drives with no issue. I’m doing my best to go over it with a fine tooth comb and address any glaring issues I find. From what I read last night, that bell housing plug that’s missing is not required and many people opt to leave it off. I’d prefer to replace it, so dust and dirt can’t get in the bell housing.
Take pictures of what you are missing and where, I have no idea if the housing you are talking about missing a plug in, is a wet or dry housing, but someone here will know.
More than likely there wasn’t a plug in the bellhousing from factory. If you put it be in you need to drill a hole in center of it and put a cotter key in the hole, that way you’ll know if you develop a leak.
Ok from what I’ve read online, it’s a dry bellhousing. I also read that a lot of them came without it. Just seems like a wild idea, it’s a 1 inch hole open for dirt to fly in. I guess it must not be that big of a deal. I should be going out to the property today. I’ll take lots of pictures of the issues I’ve discovered. I appreciate all of your help, this is the first backhoe I’ve ever used or worked on. My father in law doesn’t know much about it so I’m trying to help him out for letting me use it. I replaced the belt the other day. What a nightmare. I’ve done a lot of difficult jobs in trucks before, but this one definitely tested me!! Those four bolts on the pump flange were so difficult to get to. About 3 hours to loosen to slide the new belt in and retighten four bolts. My arm is wrecked haha I’m having battery issues too. When I parked it the other day the battery was literally smoking. It’s getting extremely hot. Ground straps look ok but I need to follow the positive to make sure there’s no exposed wire. I do suspect he put in a battery that’s way too small, I haven’t checked yet but I don’t even think it’s a deep cycle. It looks like a standard car battery.
Check voltage output on alt.
Once the machine is running your battery does nothing except get charged.
Polarity reversed somewhere in the wiring ? Is the alternator charging at stupid high rate ? Is the battery boiled dry form over charging ? Deep cycle batteries are for trolling motors on boats.
Ok a little update. I discovered the grounding strap on the battery is pretty shot. New one is on the way. Grounding strap from chassis to engine is not connected at all, fixing that. Positive cable on battery was super lose in the terminal, I’ll be replacing that terminal and putting a new lug on the cable. From what I read online, I needed a group 31 battery with 700cca. I ended up buying a 31P heavy duty commercial battery with 950cca, that’s all they had. Just fixing the positive cable seemed to reduce battery heat but I didn’t run it long, don’t want to ruin the battery. I’ll run it hard after I fix all the issues with cables. I discovered pretty much every single wire is not connected to anything. That’s a project for another day lol. Anyone add aftermarket gauges to their backhoes? I’m thinking about running new wires, sensors, etc to some new gauges mounted overhead. I also need a new zerk fitting. I attached a pic of that. Anyone know the right size?
The grease fittings on cylinders and arms are 1/8th inch pie and the ones on loader linkage may be 3/16th inch. Auto parts store should have them in a kit.
Any idea why the manual calls for a deep cycle? Doesn’t seem to make any sense. I know these came with some lighting, but all the lights have been removed on mine. There is no good reason I need a deep cycle. I’ll try this one I bought and see how it does.
Ok thank you, I’ll check my local Napa when I get off work. Any tips for flushing power shuttle? I have a new dipstick on the way. I plan to drain TC, drop the pan, and I believe there is a screen in there I can clean? I have some heavy duty ford TA-31 gasket maker to put the pan back on. It should be adequate. It wasn’t cheap, and I have way more than I needed for my truck, so figured I’ll use it when putting the pan back on. Anything else I should check while I have the pan dropped? Thanks
That sealer should work fine. Some of the torque converters had a 1/8” drain plug on them, just roll engine over and look for a 7/16 hex head plug.
What’s wrong with the bucket? It’s just steel and pins. Might be easier to repair than to replace.
No dip stick ? Is it missing from the tube it should be in ? Or you don't know where it is to pull it out ?
I was able to buy that gasket for the pan on my Case 580 E the other day on Amazon from Reliable Aftermarket Parts for 9 dollars. Dropping that pan was a miserable job with the driveshaft in the way. I found the plug on the TQ but didn’t drain as I was worried I wouldn’t be able to put it back in with the driveshaft in the way. I really just wanted to look at the pickup screen as when I do a stall test in first gear, I get no tires spinning in a pile and rpm’s only go to 1400, so I think I’m having TQ issues.
It’s pretty heavily beat up on the portion that actually moves/opens up. I’ve had a fabricator check it out and he told me the entire bottom plate needs to be replaced, quoted $2500. For that price my father in law, who owns the backhoe, would rather just replace the whole bucket
I was able to find a replacement. The dipstick was just gone, I got a new one and to my surprise the shuttle fluid was not only full, it was beautiful and looked new
Here some pictures let me know what you think
I would bend it back straight in the middle and weld up that cutting edge. Not to tough of a job.
Whew, that’s a shame. I would find a good cheap used bucket cheap, near you and cut the crap out it and weld that beautiful 4/1 bucket, with the parts. Price of new steel is sometimes more than old buckets. For example, there is a Ford 84” bucket with good cutting edge, near me for 800 dollars. Good luck.
Do any of your happen to know if anyone makes new buckets that would fit on a 1980s case super e? I’ve tried calling and emailing case, it’s been several months I’ve never heard back. I found a place that was selling a new bucket that they said fits, but it was smaller and my father in law didn’t want to downsize. Also if anyone happens to see any for sale, send them my way! I’ve scoured the internet and have had no luck. I either never hear back from the people, or I hear back that it’s sold.
Call Schaefer's. Schaefer Enterprises of Wolf Lake, Inc. | IL | Parts & Dismantled We've got what you need - browse dismantled forestry & construction equipment & parts for sale - backed by 80 years of experience in the heavy equipment & forestry industry. sewlparts.com