Any tips on how to handle a very leaky gland seal on the 6" diameter dipper cylinder. Can it be done on the machine? I have to replace the extendahoe hoses too and thought if I slid the extendahoe section off I could tilt the dipper cylinder up enough to do the seals while the barrel of the cylinder is still on the hoe? Sound reasonable? I just did the clam cylinder on the loader, it was a 3" and I had a hard time with the gland nut so any tips on getting the gland nut off the 6" cylinder? I used a very large pipe wrench for the 3" but I do not think it will work for the 6". Don't want to spend $100 plus for a gland wrench. Thanks in advance for any help with this.
Buddyo these pics. may help first time I replaced the hoses I had some good advice but that was a long time ago so when I did these ones last year I had to think it out job took 2.5 hrs. The pic. are in wrong but I don't know how to put them in order in Photo bucket. Just start at the last one and click the pics. backwards for the correct order. http://s108.photobucket.com/user/Bill_053/library/Extend a hoe As for the dipper cylinder would be nice to have the rod fully extended before taking apart should be able to do it on the hoe Some mechanics loosen the gland end with a hammer and punch I'd be inclined to use a big pipe wrench that's what I always used until I got a gland wrench.
i spent $80 on the wrench seen some for $50 saved me much headaches (tool rental shop?), i did my dipper on the machine fully extended out . just laid wood and old carpet on the dipper arm so i dont ding the heavy bitch up as it popped out my rod nut sat in deep so pipe wrench had a poor bite on it , found a local shop . brang him just the rod and he popped the 1 3/4 nut off and redid the seals and wipers for $40 labor 1/2 hr ezy pezy
Great advice! I will extend the cylinder piston and take the piston to our local shop for the seals. Doing it myself with original case seals would be expensive and the local shop says seals are about 1/3 case prices. So with the saving on the seals that will cover their labour' To get the extendahoe off I plan on taking off the bucket extending the boom and pulling off the extendahoe to get at the hoses then a neighbour will come over with his loader to put the extendahoe back on. Does this sound okay? I know this thing is heavy and I am not really set up with a shop, have to do it outside.
If you have quick attach bucket when the bucket is off be carefull not to put pressure on the hook at the end of the dipper that the bucket pin sits in . I recommend regardless of how you remove the extendahoe do it with the cylinder retracted you do not want to bend the rod. I watched a few U tube vids. and found no good advice there they were all just learning things the hard way.
It's very easy to remove and put back in by yourself if you have a means to hold the dipper to something on approx. 45 degrees.
Billrog: The answer to my prayers! I have a large oak tree that will do. I was thinking of leaving the extendahoe cylinder in and take the pin out at the top so I can replace the hoses. The PO said the cylinder did not leak it was just one of the hoses. He plugged the hoses with caps. I also like the idea of leaving the bucket on. Getting all my ducks lined up for this job. Should be late May after I plant the soybeans, need the hoe for the bucket to load seed.
Don't for get to tie something to the hoses so you can get them back in. When you have it back together and your hooking those to hoses up their going to want to twist when you tighten them take your time so they stay straight so they feed smoothly in and out when you use the dipper.
On utube a guy was using stainless braded hoses for the extendahoe. I was going to use 3500psi hoses. The same place that will do the seal kit install on the piston rod has ordinary hoses not stainless but 3500psi, any thoughts on hoses.
hose wrap ? i had this metal tape wrapped on some hoses and that crap did more damage if it got bent in any way and you didnt see or find it . it cut thru the hose in time this pvc stuff kind of slides around . found on amazon and acts as uv barrier i likey that case brand sleeve stuff pricey pricey
Buddyo as long as it's double braid steel it should be fine . For this application with the sharp bend the sock protector will work best if you choose to spend the extra bucks for it. The pvc wrap Bobby has doesn't like the constant tight bending and will bunch up at one end has been my experience but I use it on straighter runs or long curves. If you do go for the sock you must tell them before they make up the hoses It' can't go on after and I think where these hoses are located it's a good idea to have the extra protection. Plus their not very long.
Billrog: When you put the extendahoe back on the hoe was it a real problem to get it lined up with thing tied to the tree? When I do it I must move the machine to work on the dipper cylinder. Will go for the better hose.
You have to move the machine regardless if you just back up to it and put your stabilizers in the same marks they left from taking it off you will have no problem keep the idle down so the controls are slow and smooth. The task seems more challenging that it really is once you've done it.
I bought the gland wrench KD tool, works perfect with a 3/4 breaker bar, spin the gland out all the way, then back in 3 turns, gently ease the ram out to touch the gland and drain the pressure off everything, spin the gland nut off then you'll be able to pull the rod out by hand as the piston is in the expanded end of the barrel. Take your time, I have done all the packings on my CK580, best a warm weather job esp with that fat nylon square seal
Thanks folks. I think I'm all set to go. Will take a few pics and be back to you by the end of May if my beans are in.
spin the gland nut off then you'll be able to pull the rod out by hand as the piston is in the expanded end of the barrel. oooh i did not know that // sweet got 5 more clys to go and the entire machine is resealed
I tried for an hour with a ratchet strap and come-along to pull one cyl out, no go, too tight, pushing it out with the hydraulics made it easy enough to do by hand with just a little wiggle.
I've had a few I had to push out with the hydraulic's I don't recommend using air pressure I did that once because I had the cylinder off the machine. Fortunately i had enough sense not to be near the end of it when the rod and piston came out.
Sounds like a youtube moment!
Billrog: I should start next week after spraying the soybeans. A couple of questions. I plan on leaving the extendahoe cylinder in the extendahoe part that is straped to the tree at 45 degree angle, then replace the hoses and reassemble. Do you see any problems. While apart I have to take apart the dipper cylinder to do seals any thoughts on this. Also when I go to strap the extendahoe dipper to the tree at 45 degrees what angle should be boom be. I played around with it this morning and thought it should have the boom cylinder extended to the max so it will be possible to pull apart the extendahoe. Thanks in advance for those taking the time to reply.
Buddyo you have the stabilizers to help give you lift also if the front of the machine is lifted off the ground a bit with the front bucket by raising it if necessary will also raise the back of the hoe. Having enough boom to remove the extenda hoe isn't a problem I can recall having but if I think of anything I'll post it . here's a couple more pics.
Ya know I think I will do it your way with the cylinder remaining in the internal extendahoe portion. I would have to work off a ladder not my style I'm 72. Should get at it this week.
Update: Got the dipper apart today. The tree business worked very well. I used chains and come alongs as well I chained the bucket to the tree at the base. Pressure tested the hoses when I got them off and one had a leak so the PO was correct it was a hose leak. The big problem is the 6" gland nut on the dipper cylinder. Seal is shot on this cylinder and I plan on taking the piston in for seals. I tired heat and a large pipe wrench with 6 foot extension. I am trying to to get a gland wrench and also a 12 foot 2" pipe for the wrench. Any tips or ideas on this would be appreciated.
The gland nut wrench, pin spanner, OTC 1266 can order it amazon or ebay or some local dealers carry it. You'll need a 3/4 breaker bar and make sure the lock screw has been removed, small phillips or allen screw that's along the parting line of the gland and barrel. Hopefully nobody with a hammer and punch came along and boogered up all of your pin holes trying to tighten/loosen this before. Pipe wrench just distorts the flange. If a couple hundred ft/lb on the pin spanner wrench doesn't move it, lightly heat the barrel about an inch from the end, that's where the threads are, not paint burning smoking hot, just 200 degrees or so. example of a missing screw and pipe wrench application that distorted the flange so it could not be tightened all the way, will clean it up later when re-packing it, a little flat file work.
fast-st: I will order one of those gland wrenches. My pin size in the glands on the big cylinders is 11/32, I looked at the wrench and is does not appear that they have a 11/32 pin. Anyhow I could not wait around and did it brutal. I peened the end of the cylinder like the forum mentions. Did the pattern as shown and beat on it with the round end of a ballpean hammer for about 15 minutes. Then using a large pipe wrench and about a 10' bar it started. It was very very tough almost right to the end of the thread. Took the piston in today for seals. While there I got the extendahoe hoses, Case parts description is one hose 700mm long the other 850mm. Got them home and they were a very very close fit I should have got another 25mm for each hose. Just waiting for the piston, might be a few days.
The spanner has two pin sizes on it, one is 1/4 and the other is 5/16, not sure, fits everying on my CK580 like a dream.
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Adjustabl...1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage Designed to fit hydraulic cylinders on most farm and construction equipment Offers customized fit to the gland nuts from 2 inches to 6 inches diameter Reversible to fit 1/4 inch as well as 5/16 inch diameter pinholes
If your going to have the cylinder done don't take it apart just bring the whole cylinder in there are seals & wiper seal to be replaced as well.
I always just did my own, when I bought the machine at auction, after fixing the trans I bought 1 of every seal kit plus a couple spares, back then from Case they were 20 something bucks each. One piston bolt gave me trouble, local truck shop removed the 1 3/4 bolt for free, gave the mechanic 10 anyway.
Finished Friday. A great big thanks to all the folks who helped me do this job. It would not have happened if it weren't for you guys! Thoughts on the job: Get the gland wrench. Order your hoses an inch longer than specified by Case. Use stout chains to hold extendahoe to tree. Pick a good tree, mine was oak about 18" diameter. Take the ram in for rebuild and leave the cylinder in place.(ram nut was a problem for the shop). Use case site to establish if your aftermarket seals are the same, I wondered about mine but no leaks. The hardest part was the gland nut with a large pipe wrench 8' extension it was a grunt till it was almost out. First 2 inches of thread were rusted bad. The install of the gland nut went slightly better but it too was a grunt. Slipping the dipper together went well, with engine at low idle and feathering both boom and dipper controls at the same time. If it leaks again I'll burn it.
Thank goodness for trees ! I made use of them many times for support. I am a little late with gland wrench info, but here is a link for one that I have and it is very good quality at 1/2 the price of an OTC branded one. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/gland-nut-wrench $36.95 Do not buy the SMALL one !
One further thought on the tree thing. It is a good idea to chain the bucket to the base of the tree.. That way it will not kick out to one side or lift as you remove the extendahoe. I hope this information on the thread helps someone.
Who can't relate to that?
Scene of the crime.
Looks good. Hopefully you won't be needing those matches anytime soon.