I am planning on removing the swing cylinders and replacing all the bushings and pins. I'll repack the cylinders too. Any tips on the removal of the cylinders and bushings? I've never done it before and there is nothing in the service manual on it. I was thinking that I would remove and cap the hose connections first. Then remove the plate on top of the cylinders. I am going to have to rig up something to support the back of the cylinders then remove the pins to get the cylinders out. I plan on trying to use an engine hoist and straps to move the cylinders. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Doug
I always pull the rods & pistons before I remove the cylinders - as the machine is the pull down bench for stopping the cylinders from turning, while removing the glands. The cylinders on their own don't weigh all that much. I use ratchet straps to hold the cylinders up in the upper trunions while the lower plate is removed - especially useful idea when doing the install..... But, I do work on sideshift models all the time..... should be similar though.
Thanks for the reply. Luckily I was only able to get 5 of the 6 bolts off the top plate off last night so I removed the glands with the cylinders on the machine today. Worked out great. I assume that when it is put back together I should do it the same way with the tube on the machine? There is no lower plate to remove on my machine. Looking at the bushings where the pins go in I can't figure out how to get the new ones in. I assume I can get the old ones out with an air hammer or by cutting a slot in them. They don't seem to be wore hardly at all. If they are only wore a few 1000ths compared to the new ones should I just leave them in? Otherwise is there a special tool I need to get to help install them? The pins show signs of wear and I am going to replace them and the bushing at the end of the cylinders. I won't be able to remove the upper plate until I get the proper size wrench(30mm) to remove the last bolt. Hopefully the bushings for the trunions won't be too difficult to replace. Is there anything special I should watch out for when putting the new seals in? I've only ever resealed 2 cylinders, one on a small 4 in 1 bucket and a lift cylinder on an 1840 skid steer. Seems like there are more seals and rings in one of the swing cylinder kits than both the others combined. Luckily there are pretty good instructions in the service manual. One thing, there is an orange ring(?) on the gland next to an O-ring but there doesn't seem to be a matching one in the kits. There are 2 very thin black ones that if added together might be the same width as the orange one. Can't see where else those 2 black rings would be used. Sorry for all the questions. Thanks, Doug
Hey Doug The seals on the piston of the swing cylinder are fairly easy to replace, just watch the main piston seal some are solid and will require slight stretching to install. Others have a expansion area that will allow you to install seal easier. After installation put a hose clamp on seal for a little while to help shrink it back down so you won't cut it when you put rod assembly back in tube. The oil seals in gland will give you some trouble but not too bad. Just be sure and install rod seal facing into cylinder and outer seal facing outward.
Cylinder seal kits quite often have more pieces than you need because the same kit can be used on different model cylinders. Take photos as you go. Do one gland at a time so you have one that is together for a reference in case of doubt. I always cut slots in bushings when they are in a location that I don't risk burning the shop to the ground. Putting the bushings in dry ice is preferred prior to installing the bushings. A hydraulic press is second. Hammering them in should never be done without the proper size driver. They are easily made on a lathe and usually not expensive.
Good info, thanks. I do have a couple more questions. The replacement for the orange ring is narrower. The orange ring is .052" and the replacement is .039". Does that matter? It seems like a few of the O-rings and seal replacements are less thick than the originals. Maybe the original ones have expanded? I ordered a new seal kit from a different vendor to compare. Also, is it safe to heat up the cap screw to remove it? It took my wife and I hanging on a 3/4" breaker bar with a 6' pipe on it to get the first one loose. I think they have loctite on them. Tinkerer, what do you use to cut the slots in the bushings? I'm still not sure how to get the new ones in for the swing cylinder pins. There's not enough room to use a driver or a hammer. I am going to try to make some kind of a press using threaded rod. Thanks, Doug
For the rod bolts. I put a big pipe wrench on the skirt of the socket. Then I put put a three foot long pipe on the handle of the wrench. Next I put a track bar in the pipe. Never had one refuse to come loose ! Same technique to tighten the bolt. If red loctitie was used, heating is required. Hit the head of the bolt several times with a bfh first before heating the rod. Doing that may eliminate the need for heat. I cut the slots with an acetylene cutting torch. It should not be attempted unless you are experienced with one. When the bushing starts to burn ,I raise the torch tip up while continuously applying the oxygen. Getting the flame of the tip away from the bushing really helps to prevent burning the bushing boss. I have read that a welding a bead on the inside of the bushing will loosen it. I never have had a need to try that. Dry ice is probably your best option for reinstalling the new bushings.
Has anyone tried using a 3/4" impact driver with an adjustable spanner wrench to loosen the gland cap on a swing or other cylinder on a Case 580L or similar backhoe-loader? It seems this might work to loosen the cap so that it can be removed after it is broken free. The typical issue is rust that develops on the first couple of threads of the gland cap that acts much like Loctite Red.
I’ve never tried it because my gland wrench is adjustable and won’t stand the vibration.